The Diamond Certification Laboratory of Australia (DCLA)

Laser drilling is a treatment used to enhance the apparent clarity of a diamond by reducing the visibility of dark inclusions. It involves the use of a focused laser beam to create a small tunnel through the diamond’s surface, allowing the removal or bleaching of inclusions, particularly dark ones. This process is commonly used to improve the visual appeal of diamonds with noticeable inclusions, making them more attractive to potential buyers. While laser drilling is an effective technique, it’s important to understand its process, benefits, and potential drawbacks.

The Laser Drilling Process
Laser drilling is a highly precise technique that typically follows these steps:

Identification of Inclusions: Before the drilling process begins, the diamond is thoroughly examined to identify the inclusions that can be treated. Dark inclusions, such as black carbon spots or crystals, are the primary targets of this treatment, as they are often the most visible and detrimental to a diamond’s clarity.

Laser Penetration: Once the target inclusions are located, a small laser beam is directed at the diamond. The laser drills a tiny tunnel from the surface to the inclusion, carefully creating a channel that reaches the inclusion without compromising the integrity of the diamond. This process is highly precise, and the depth and location of the drill are controlled to ensure the best possible results without causing damage.

Inclusion Removal or Bleaching: After the tunnel is created, the dark inclusion inside the diamond is either:

Vaporised: In some cases, the laser’s intense heat will cause the dark material in the inclusion to evaporate, making it less noticeable.
Bleached: Alternatively, if the inclusion is resistant to laser vaporisation, the material is often bleached with a mild acid solution. This is particularly effective for black carbon or graphite inclusions. The bleaching process lightens or removes the dark colour, making the inclusion less visible to the naked eye.
Surface Finishing: After the treatment, the surface of the diamond may require some polishing or additional treatment to restore its smoothness and appearance. The treated areas are carefully examined to ensure that the diamond’s clarity is visibly improved.

Types of Inclusions Treated by Laser Drilling
Laser drilling is most commonly used to treat specific types of inclusions, primarily those that significantly affect a diamond’s clarity and appearance:

Black Inclusions: These are often caused by carbon or graphite inclusions, which appear as dark spots or crystals inside the diamond. These inclusions are particularly noticeable and can dramatically affect the visual quality of the diamond. Laser drilling is effective in removing or lightening these dark inclusions.

Crystal Inclusions: If a crystal inclusion is dark in colour, laser drilling may be used to reduce its visibility. Crystal inclusions are common in diamonds, and laser drilling can help make them less conspicuous without affecting the structural integrity of the diamond.

Feathers: In some cases, laser drilling can be used to treat smaller feather-like inclusions that have a darker colour. While the primary purpose of laser drilling is to target black inclusions, it can sometimes be effective for other types of inclusions that detract from the diamond’s clarity.

Benefits of Laser Drilling
Improved Clarity: The main benefit of laser drilling is its ability to significantly enhance the clarity of a diamond. By reducing the visibility of dark inclusions, the diamond appears clearer and more visually appealing, which can increase its marketability and value.

Preserving Diamond Integrity: Unlike some other clarity-enhancing treatments, laser drilling does not compromise the structural integrity of the diamond. The process is highly precise and controlled, ensuring that the diamond remains intact and safe for regular wear.

Affordable Alternative to Higher-Quality Diamonds: Laser drilling can be a more cost-effective solution for diamonds that would otherwise be deemed lower in clarity. This treatment can make diamonds with minor inclusions more appealing, potentially allowing them to be sold at a higher price point.

Customised Treatment: The precision of the laser drilling process means that diamonds can be treated on a case-by-case basis. This customisation allows diamond professionals to target only the inclusions that are most visible and impactful, ensuring that the treatment is both effective and minimally invasive.

Drawbacks and Considerations
While laser drilling offers several benefits, it’s important to consider the potential drawbacks of this treatment:

Visible Marks on the Surface: Laser drilling creates small tunnels or entry points on the diamond’s surface. Although these are typically very small and can be polished after treatment, they may still be visible under magnification. These marks can slightly detract from the overall appearance of the diamond, particularly in higher magnification grades.

Affecting Diamond Value: While laser drilling can improve the clarity of a diamond, it is important to note that diamonds treated with laser drilling may be graded differently than untreated diamonds. In some cases, diamonds that have undergone laser drilling may be valued lower than those with naturally high clarity because the treatment is considered an enhancement, rather than a natural characteristic.

Potential Disclosure Requirements: If a diamond has been laser drilled, it must be disclosed to potential buyers. Ethical guidelines and diamond grading standards require that treatments such as laser drilling be properly documented and disclosed, which means buyers will be aware of the enhancement.

Limitations on Severe Inclusions: While laser drilling can be highly effective for small dark inclusions, it is not always appropriate for larger or more complex inclusions. For example, if the inclusion extends too far into the diamond, or if it is located in a position where drilling is difficult or would risk damaging the diamond, laser drilling may not be feasible.

Laser Drilling vs. Other Diamond Treatments
Clarity Enhancement via Bleaching: Laser drilling is often used in conjunction with other clarity-enhancing treatments such as laser bleaching, where the dark inclusion is lightened with acid. While both techniques aim to reduce the visibility of inclusions, laser drilling focuses on creating a tunnel to remove or lighten the inclusion, while bleaching lightens the inclusion chemically.

Fracture Filling: Another clarity-enhancing treatment is fracture filling, which involves filling small fractures or inclusions with a substance such as glass or resin to make them less visible. Laser drilling is sometimes used in conjunction with fracture filling to target dark inclusions that are visible on the diamond’s surface.

Life in a diamond refers to the vivid, dynamic quality that gives the diamond its captivating brilliance, dispersion, and scintillation. It is the essence of what makes a diamond sparkle and appear alive under different lighting conditions. While many factors contribute to the overall aesthetic of a diamond, the concept of “life” encompasses how the diamond interacts with light, its ability to reflect and refract light, and the visual impact it has on the viewer.

Key Components of Life in a Diamond
The term “life” is a combination of three key optical phenomena that work together to create the diamond’s stunning visual effects. These include brilliance, dispersion, and scintillation:

Brilliance:

Brilliance refers to the amount of white light that is reflected from the surface and the facets of a diamond. It is a measure of how much light is returned to the viewer’s eye, creating a sparkling, bright effect.
The quality of brilliance depends heavily on the cut of the diamond. Well-cut diamonds with optimal proportions and angles will exhibit the maximum amount of brilliance. When a diamond is cut properly, the light entering through the top is reflected back through the table and facets, creating an intense, white sparkle.
Dispersion:

Dispersion, also known as “fire,” is the effect that occurs when light is split into its constituent colours as it passes through the diamond. This creates the colourful flashes of light that you often see in high-quality diamonds, particularly in sunlight or bright lighting.
The greater the dispersion, the more the diamond will show a rainbow of colours, enhancing its visual beauty. A well-cut diamond will maximise the effect of dispersion, allowing it to reflect the full spectrum of visible light.
Scintillation:

Scintillation refers to the flashes of light and sparkle that appear as the diamond moves. These flashes are the result of light being reflected off the facets of the diamond as it is tilted or rotated.
The more facets a diamond has, and the better its proportions, the greater the scintillation effect. A diamond with excellent scintillation will have a lively, dynamic sparkle, even when viewed from different angles or when moved slightly.
The Role of Cut in Life
The cut of a diamond is the most significant factor influencing its life. The cut determines how well a diamond interacts with light, affecting its brilliance, dispersion, and scintillation. An ideal cut maximises all of these attributes by ensuring that light enters, reflects, and exits the diamond in the most efficient manner possible.

Proportions and Symmetry: Proper proportions and symmetry are critical in the cut of the diamond. A well-cut diamond ensures that the angles of the facets are aligned in such a way that light is properly reflected and refracted, leading to maximum brilliance and fire.

Polish: The quality of the diamond’s polish also impacts its life. A poorly polished diamond may have rough surfaces that cause light to scatter unevenly, reducing brilliance and fire. On the other hand, a well-polished diamond will allow light to enter and exit smoothly, enhancing its sparkle.

Why Life Matters in a Diamond
Visual Appeal: The “life” of a diamond is what attracts the eye and creates the allure that diamonds are known for. The more vibrant and sparkling a diamond appears, the more attractive it will be to the observer. Life adds depth and dimension to the diamond, making it look stunning from all angles.

Value: A diamond with excellent life is often more valuable because it is more visually striking. Diamonds that display higher levels of brilliance, dispersion, and scintillation tend to be more desirable, thus commanding higher prices in the market.

Emotional Impact: A diamond’s life can evoke emotions, especially when it is worn in jewellery such as engagement rings or necklaces. The way a diamond sparkles and shifts with the light can symbolise significant moments or memories, making the emotional value of the stone even greater.

Evaluating Life in a Diamond
When purchasing or evaluating a diamond, the life is an essential consideration. However, unlike colour, clarity, and carat weight, “life” is a more subjective aspect of the diamond. It is not usually quantified on a grading scale, but instead evaluated based on its visual impact.

Lighting Conditions: The effect of life can vary depending on the lighting environment. A diamond might look stunning in natural sunlight, but may appear less lively under low or artificial lighting. For this reason, it’s important to view diamonds in different lighting conditions to fully appreciate their brilliance and fire.

Personal Preference: Life in a diamond can also be subjective based on individual preferences. Some people prefer a diamond with a more intense sparkle, while others may appreciate a subtler effect. Different cuts, such as round brilliant or cushion cut, will exhibit life in unique ways.

Life in the Diamond Industry
Marketing and Presentation: In the diamond industry, life plays a significant role in marketing. Diamonds with exceptional brilliance and sparkle are often highlighted as being “extraordinarily lively,” creating a sense of awe and desire among potential buyers. This makes life an important selling point in the jewellery market.

Technology and Innovations: Advances in cutting technology have greatly improved the life of diamonds. Modern cutting machines allow for greater precision in shaping diamonds, leading to cuts that maximise light reflection and enhance the diamond’s overall beauty. Additionally, the use of advanced techniques such as laser cutting ensures that diamonds have more symmetrical and finely polished facets, resulting in a greater display of life.

A loose diamond refers to a diamond that is not yet set in any type of jewellery. It is an unmounted stone that remains free, allowing for a more detailed assessment of its qualities before it is placed into a setting such as a ring, necklace, or bracelet. This freedom provides several benefits, including a clearer understanding of the diamond’s characteristics and the flexibility for buyers to choose their preferred mounting.

Importance of Loose Diamonds in the Jewellery Industry
Accurate Evaluation:

When a diamond is loose, its attributes—such as its cut, colour, clarity, and carat weight (the Four Cs)—can be accurately assessed. The diamond is viewed from all angles, and precise measurements can be made. This allows for a thorough and precise evaluation, which is impossible when the diamond is set in jewellery, as the setting may obscure parts of the stone.
Grading labs, such as the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) or the Diamond Certification Laboratory of Australia (DCLA), require diamonds to be loose for accurate certification. When a diamond is mounted, it may be challenging to fully assess certain characteristics, especially clarity, as inclusions might be hidden by the setting.
Better Market Transparency:

Loose diamonds provide greater transparency in the marketplace. Buyers can inspect and compare the characteristics of different diamonds in their natural state. This also allows for greater flexibility in selecting the right stone for a specific piece of jewellery, as customers have the option to customise the setting later based on the loose diamond’s shape and size.
Advantages of Purchasing a Loose Diamond
Customisation:

Purchasing a loose diamond allows the buyer to have full control over the design of their jewellery. Whether it’s for an engagement ring, a pendant, or earrings, customers can choose the setting that best complements their diamond, resulting in a more personalised and unique piece of jewellery.
Loose diamonds also provide the opportunity to create bespoke designs, as they are not restricted to pre-existing settings. Buyers can work with a jeweller to design something that reflects their personal style and preferences.
Cost Efficiency:

A loose diamond may be more affordable than a pre-set diamond in a piece of jewellery, as you are only paying for the stone itself without the cost of the setting. Additionally, buying loose allows buyers to explore different pricing options, including different grading and certification levels, without paying for an expensive mount.
The cost of setting a loose diamond is a separate consideration, but in many cases, the buyer may save on the mounting compared to purchasing an already mounted diamond.
Greater Selection:

Buying a loose diamond offers a wider selection of stones. You are not limited to the diamonds that are already set in jewellery, which may not fit your preferences in terms of quality, shape, or size. Loose diamonds give access to a broader variety of shapes (round, princess, oval, emerald, etc.), sizes, and grades, allowing you to choose a diamond that best suits your needs.
Investment Potential:

Loose diamonds are also popular with investors. They are portable, can be easily stored, and often maintain or increase their value over time, especially high-quality diamonds with favourable characteristics. As the diamond market continues to evolve, loose diamonds provide the flexibility to resell or trade them more easily compared to mounted diamonds.
Challenges of Loose Diamonds
Vulnerability to Damage:

While being unmounted offers several benefits, it also leaves the diamond more exposed to damage. Without a setting to protect it, a loose diamond can be scratched, chipped, or lost more easily. Buyers should take extra care when handling and storing loose diamonds to avoid accidental damage.
Secure packaging and proper storage are critical to maintain the diamond’s condition.
Setting Delays:

After purchasing a loose diamond, the buyer may face delays in having the stone set into their chosen jewellery. The setting process can take time, especially if custom work is involved, and the jewellery itself may not be ready for immediate wear.
It is important to account for the time it takes to create the jewellery around the diamond, which may affect when the customer can actually wear or present the piece.
Loose Diamond Certification
Loose diamonds are typically certified by independent gemological laboratories. This certification ensures that the diamond has been graded and evaluated according to universally recognised standards. The Four Cs (cut, colour, clarity, and carat weight) are the main criteria used to assess the quality of a diamond.

Cut: The diamond’s proportions, symmetry, and polish. This affects how well the diamond reflects light, influencing its brilliance and overall appearance.
Colour: The lack of colour in the diamond. Diamonds are graded on a scale from D (colourless) to Z (light yellow or brown).
Clarity: The presence of internal or external flaws, called inclusions and blemishes. The fewer the imperfections, the higher the clarity grade.
Carat Weight: The weight of the diamond, with one carat equalling 200 milligrams. Larger diamonds are rarer and typically more valuable.
Certification provides reassurance to buyers that the diamond meets certain standards and helps them understand its true value. The report usually includes a diagram of the diamond’s inclusions and any other notable features, which are critical for understanding its characteristics.

Where to Buy Loose Diamonds
Loose diamonds can be purchased from a variety of sources:

Jewellers and Diamond Retailers: Many well-established jewellers offer loose diamonds for sale. Some may also have diamond grading reports available for each stone, giving buyers more confidence in their purchase.

Online Platforms: Online marketplaces and diamond retailers provide access to a large selection of loose diamonds, often with detailed information about each stone’s grading and certification. Some platforms even allow buyers to filter diamonds based on specific criteria, such as carat weight, cut quality, and colour.

Diamond Auctions: For collectors and investors, diamonds can also be found at diamond auctions, where high-quality loose diamonds are sold to the highest bidder.

A diamond loupe is a small, handheld magnifying lens that is an essential tool for examining diamonds, especially when it comes to evaluating their clarity. It allows gemologists, jewellers, and buyers to inspect the intricate details of a diamond, helping to identify inclusions, blemishes, and other microscopic characteristics that affect its overall quality.

Key Features of a Diamond Loupe
Magnification Power:

The most common magnification used for grading diamonds is 10x magnification. This level of magnification is optimal for examining the intricate details of a diamond without causing strain on the eyes or distorting the image.
While 10x magnification is standard, there are loupes available with higher magnifications (e.g., 20x, 30x) for more detailed inspection. However, 10x is generally the ideal magnification for most grading purposes.
Lens Quality:

A high-quality diamond loupe is typically made with achromatic lenses to reduce colour distortion and correct for chromatic aberrations, ensuring clear and accurate magnification. Loupes must be carefully crafted to ensure that they do not distort the image, especially when examining tiny inclusions or imperfections within the diamond.
The lenses in a good diamond loupe should also be free from spherical aberration, which can cause the image to appear blurry around the edges. This is essential for accurate evaluation.
Optical Clarity:

The lens of the loupe should provide a sharp, crisp image, free of distortions, allowing the user to easily identify the smallest of inclusions and other characteristics. Diamond clarity, which includes the presence of natural inclusions and surface blemishes, is assessed based on the ability to see these minute details under magnification.
Purpose of a Diamond Loupe in Clarity Grading
Clarity Assessment:

When grading the clarity of a diamond, a loupe is used to inspect the stone under 10x magnification to determine the size, location, and nature of any inclusions or blemishes present inside or on the surface of the diamond. The Gemological Institute of America (GIA), for example, uses this tool when assigning clarity grades to diamonds.
Diamonds with fewer or no inclusions are typically given higher clarity grades (such as Flawless or Internally Flawless), while diamonds with more visible inclusions or surface blemishes are graded lower (e.g., SI1, SI2).
Inclusion Identification:

A diamond loupe is indispensable for identifying inclusions such as clouds, crystals, pinpoints, and feathers within the diamond. These inclusions can affect the diamond’s clarity and its overall value. The clarity grade is based on the number, size, location, and visibility of these imperfections, making the loupe an indispensable tool for any professional examining diamonds.
Blemishes on the surface of a diamond, such as scratches, chips, or natural marks, are also easily visible under magnification, helping in the evaluation of the stone’s overall appearance and quality.
Facets Inspection:

While the loupe is primarily used to examine clarity, it is also useful for assessing the quality of the cut. A skilled observer can identify issues with facet alignment, polish, and symmetry that might not be noticeable with the naked eye. The loupe allows professionals to examine whether the facets meet at the correct angles and whether the diamond exhibits good brilliance and scintillation.
Types of Diamond Loupes
Single-Lens Loupe:

The most common and traditional type of loupe, a single-lens loupe typically has a fixed 10x magnification. It is compact and portable, fitting comfortably in a jeweller’s pocket. The single lens makes it simple to use, and it is widely regarded as the standard tool for diamond clarity grading.
Triplet Loupe:

A triplet loupe features three lenses, which are fused together to form a single lens system. This design allows for better correction of optical distortions, particularly spherical and chromatic aberration, providing clearer and more accurate magnification. While often slightly more expensive, triplet loupes are preferred by professionals for their superior clarity.
Binocular Loupe:

A binocular loupe uses two lenses, providing a wider field of view and a more comfortable viewing experience, as it reduces eye strain compared to using a single-lens loupe. While it is not as portable as a single-lens loupe, it offers more detailed and comfortable magnification for longer periods of use.
How to Use a Diamond Loupe
Proper Positioning:

To get the most accurate magnification, position the loupe about 1–2 inches from the surface of the diamond. Hold the loupe up to your eye and move the diamond until it is in focus. The clarity of the diamond will become more apparent as you carefully examine its surface and internal characteristics.
It’s important to hold the diamond steady while examining it to ensure that the details are clearly visible. Some jewellers use diamond holders or trays to secure the stone during examination.
Lighting Conditions:

Lighting plays a critical role in clarity grading. A bright, focused light source, such as a desk lamp with a white light or a gemlight, is often used to illuminate the diamond while using a loupe. Proper lighting helps illuminate inclusions and other features, making them more visible and easier to assess.
Examine the Diamond in Sections:

When inspecting a diamond, it’s important to examine it systematically, looking at all sides and angles. Start by inspecting the table (the flat top surface), and then move to the crown, pavilion, and girdle. Rotate the diamond as you look through the loupe to get a comprehensive view of its clarity.
Maintaining Your Diamond Loupe
Cleaning:
Since a diamond loupe is used to examine the smallest details, it’s crucial to keep the lens clean. Smudges or dirt can obscure the clarity of the diamond, making it difficult to evaluate. Use a microfiber cloth or a lens cleaning solution to gently clean the loupe lens.
Storage:
Store the loupe in a protective case when not in use to prevent scratches or damage to the lens. A well-maintained loupe will provide accurate and reliable results for many years.

The lower-girdle facets are crucial elements in the overall symmetry and brilliance of a diamond. These triangle-shaped facets are located on the pavilion of the diamond, directly adjacent to the girdle, which is the outer edge of the diamond. The pavilion refers to the bottom part of the diamond, below the girdle, which is responsible for reflecting light back through the crown and into the observer’s eye.

Position and Structure
Location: The lower-girdle facets are positioned on the pavilion of the diamond, near the girdle. They are situated just below the main facets of the pavilion, including the main pavilion facets, which are the large, flat surfaces that reflect light into the crown.

Shape: These facets are typically triangle-shaped, although their size and exact proportions can vary depending on the cut of the diamond. In some diamonds, these lower-girdle facets may be slightly elongated or modified, but they usually maintain a triangular form.

Function: The primary function of the lower-girdle facets is to help direct light in the diamond, contributing to its brilliance and scintillation. These facets work by reflecting light that enters the pavilion from below, which then bounces back through the crown of the diamond, creating the visual effects that make diamonds sparkle. The interaction between the light and these facets is essential in maximizing the diamond’s overall visual appeal.

Impact on Diamond Performance
Brilliance:

The brilliance of a diamond is its ability to reflect white light. The lower-girdle facets play an important role in this by directing light from the pavilion back into the crown. When the light is properly reflected, it bounces back to the viewer’s eye, enhancing the diamond’s brightness.
Scintillation:

Scintillation refers to the flashes of light that occur when a diamond moves or is viewed from different angles. The lower-girdle facets help enhance scintillation by creating additional reflections and refractions of light. Their triangular shape and position allow them to catch light from various angles, contributing to the diamond’s overall sparkle.
Symmetry:

Properly aligned and symmetrical lower-girdle facets are essential to the overall symmetry of the diamond. When the facets are evenly proportioned, the diamond will have a more visually appealing appearance, with well-defined light reflections and a balanced sparkle. Any irregularities in the alignment or shape of these facets can lead to an uneven distribution of light, reducing the diamond’s brilliance.
Grading the Lower-Girdle Facets
In diamond grading, the quality of the lower-girdle facets is considered as part of the overall cut grade, which evaluates how well the diamond has been shaped and proportioned to maximize its brilliance, fire, and scintillation. Some of the factors that affect the grading of the lower-girdle facets include:

Size and Proportion:

The size and proportion of the lower-girdle facets should be well balanced with the other facets of the diamond, including the main pavilion facets and the upper girdle facets. Proper proportions contribute to the diamond’s overall symmetry and visual appeal.
Symmetry:

Symmetry is one of the key components of diamond grading. Lower-girdle facets should be symmetrical, with uniform size and placement. Any misalignment or uneven facet sizes can disrupt the flow of light through the diamond and impact its overall performance.
Polish:

A well-polished surface on the lower-girdle facets enhances the diamond’s ability to reflect light. Poor polishing can lead to a dull appearance and reduce the brilliance of the diamond.
Role in Different Diamond Cuts
While lower-girdle facets are typically found in round brilliant cut diamonds, their placement and function can also be seen in other shapes that share similar cutting structures. However, the round brilliant cut diamond relies most heavily on the lower-girdle facets to achieve optimal light performance.

Round Brilliant Cut:

In the round brilliant cut, the lower-girdle facets are particularly important in creating the characteristic sparkle and fire that this cut is known for. The precise arrangement of these facets ensures that the diamond exhibits maximum brilliance and scintillation.
Other Fancy Cuts:

While fancy shapes like emerald, princess, or asscher cuts have different facet structures, they still rely on the principles of light reflection and refraction that are found in the lower-girdle facets of the round brilliant cut. For these shapes, the positioning and number of lower-girdle facets can vary, but their purpose remains the same: to enhance the diamond’s brilliance.
Impact of the Lower-Girdle Facets on Diamond Value
Diamonds with well-proportioned and well-cut lower-girdle facets typically have better light performance, meaning they will display more brilliance, scintillation, and fire. As such, diamonds with ideal or well-graded lower-girdle facets are generally considered more valuable because they are more visually appealing. Poorly proportioned or poorly cut lower-girdle facets can negatively affect the diamond’s performance, reducing its overall desirability and value.

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