The Diamond Certification Laboratory of Australia (DCLA)

An abraded culet refers to a diamond culet (the small facet at the bottom of the diamond) that has been damaged or worn down, usually due to the cutting process or handling. The culet is the very tip of the diamond, and an abraded culet can appear as a tiny, flattened area or may have small chips, wear, or nicks around it.

How an Abraded Culet Happens:
Cutting Process: During the diamond cutting process, if the culet is not carefully polished, it can become abraded. This happens when the final facet is not smoothed out completely, or if excessive pressure or friction is applied during cutting.
Handling: Over time, if a diamond is improperly handled, the culet can also become abraded. For example, the diamond may rub against other surfaces, or the culet may come into contact with something hard, leading to wear or damage.
Impact on the Diamond:
Aesthetic Appearance:

While an abraded culet is not usually visible when the diamond is set in jewelry, it can affect the diamond’s overall symmetry and appearance when viewed closely, particularly under magnification.
The abraded culet may cause a slight loss of brilliance in the area around the tip of the diamond, as light may not reflect as efficiently from the damaged facet.
Durability:

A severely abraded culet can compromise the diamond’s durability. Since the culet is at the tip of the diamond, it is one of the most vulnerable parts of the stone, especially in a loose setting. If the culet is excessively damaged, it could become chipped or fractured under stress.
Value:

The presence of an abraded culet can sometimes impact the diamond’s value, as it can be seen as a flaw in the cut or finish. However, this is typically only a concern in diamonds that are graded with high precision, such as those graded by institutions like DCLA.
How to Identify an Abraded Culet:
Magnification: An abraded culet is most often detected using a loupe (a small magnifying lens) at 10x magnification. It may appear as small chips or a flattened area at the bottom point of the diamond.
Grading Report: A DCLA report may note an abraded culet as a specific characteristic of the diamond’s finish. However, not all instances of culet abrasion are significant enough to be mentioned on a grading report.
Preventing and Repairing Abraded Culet:
Precaution during Cutting: Careful cutting and polishing are essential to prevent the culet from becoming abraded in the first place. Skilled diamond cutters will ensure that the culet is polished without unnecessary pressure or abrasion.
Repair: If a diamond already has an abraded culet, a skilled jeweller or diamond cutter may be able to polish or re-cut the culet to restore its shape and reduce the appearance of damage. However, this may alter the diamond’s proportions slightly and can affect its overall appearance.
Is an Abraded Culet a Major Concern?
For most buyers, an abraded culet is not a significant concern unless it is extensive and impacts the diamond’s overall appearance or durability.
If you’re purchasing a diamond and are worried about an abraded culet, it is always advisable to request a DCLA or other gemological report to ensure the diamond’s cut and finish are of high quality.

An abraded facet edge in a diamond refers to the condition where the sharp edges of a diamond’s facets have become worn, chipped, or dulled. This abrasion typically occurs from contact with hard surfaces, improper handling, or over time as the diamond is worn. Abraded facet edges are common in diamonds that have been in use for a while, especially if they are not regularly cleaned or if they have experienced rough handling or accidental knocks.

How an Abraded Facet Edge Happens:
Accidental Impact: The most common cause of abraded facet edges is physical impact with hard surfaces. For example, if the diamond accidentally comes into contact with a countertop, metal object, or other hard material, it can cause the edges of the facets to chip or become dulled.
Worn Over Time: With extended wear, especially in jewelry that comes into frequent contact with other surfaces (e.g., rings worn daily), the edges of the facets can naturally become worn down, causing them to lose their sharpness and brilliance.
Impact on the Diamond:
Appearance:

Abraded facet edges can make the diamond appear less sharp and clear when viewed under magnification. The dulling of the edges reduces the diamond’s brilliance and can diminish the overall sparkle, as light is not reflected as efficiently from these edges.
The facet edges are crucial for creating the scintillation (the flashes of light and sparkle) that diamonds are known for. When these edges become abraded, the scintillation can be noticeably lessened.
Light Reflection:

The primary function of the facet edges is to help reflect light from different angles, enhancing the diamond’s brilliance. When these edges become abraded, the light may not be reflected in the same way, which can reduce the overall visual appeal of the diamond.
Durability:

While the abraded facet edge itself may not significantly affect the structural integrity of the diamond, if left unchecked, it could potentially lead to further damage. Over time, the worn edges may become more prone to chipping or fracturing, especially if the diamond is exposed to more trauma.
How to Identify an Abraded Facet Edge:
Magnification: The best way to identify an abraded facet edge is by using a loupe (magnifying lens) at 10x magnification. Under magnification, the affected edges will appear less sharp or slightly rounded, and you may notice tiny chips or wear marks along the edge of the facet.
Grading Report: A DCLA report or any reputable grading report may mention abraded facet edges if the damage is significant enough to affect the overall finish and appearance of the diamond. Minor abrasions might not always be noted, especially if they do not affect the diamond’s performance.
Impact on Diamond Value:
Minor Abrasion: If the abrasion is minor and does not affect the overall appearance of the diamond, it might not significantly impact its value. The diamond may still retain much of its brilliance and sparkle.
Major Abrasion: If the abrasions are significant and noticeable, particularly around the facet edges, the value of the diamond may be reduced. Diamonds are highly valued for their cut and finish, and an abraded facet edge can decrease the diamond’s appeal, potentially lowering its resale value.
Repairing Abraded Facet Edges:
Polishing: If the abrasion is minor, a professional jeweller or diamond cutter can polish the facet edges to restore their sharpness. Polishing the edges will improve the diamond’s appearance and potentially its light performance, but it may slightly alter the proportions or the overall size of the diamond.
Re-cutting: For more significant damage, the diamond may need to be re-cut. This process involves removing a small portion of the diamond to restore the facets to their original angles and proportions. However, this will affect the diamond’s weight and can alter its overall shape or size.
Preventing Abraded Facet Edges:
Proper Care: To prevent the facet edges from becoming abraded, it’s essential to handle the diamond carefully. If the diamond is in a piece of jewelry, like a ring, ensure that it is securely set and protected from excessive contact with hard surfaces.
Regular Cleaning: Regular cleaning and maintenance help maintain the diamond’s brilliance and keep the facets looking sharp. It’s also advisable to have jewelry settings inspected regularly to make sure the diamond is securely held and less prone to impact damage.
Summary:
Abraded facet edges are a common issue for diamonds that have experienced wear and tear, especially if they are exposed to physical impacts or rough handling.
This type of abrasion can diminish the brilliance and sparkle of the diamond, and it may also affect its value and durability if severe.
DCLA grading reports can help identify the severity of abrasions, and minor abrasions can usually be repaired through polishing. However, significant damage may require re-cutting the diamond.

Abrasion on a diamond refers to the process where the surface or facets of a diamond become worn, scratched, or damaged, typically from contact with other hard surfaces or rough handling. Abrasions can affect a diamond’s aesthetic appeal, its brilliance, and, in some cases, its structural integrity if left unchecked. These imperfections are different from internal inclusions and usually occur on the surface of the diamond.

Causes of Abrasion on a Diamond:
Physical Impact: Accidental bumps or knocks with hard surfaces, such as countertops or other jewelry, can cause abrasions to the diamond’s facets or edges.
Handling: Improper handling, such as rubbing the diamond against other surfaces, can cause gradual wear and tear. For example, a diamond ring worn daily may accumulate abrasions over time due to contact with clothing, other jewelry, or objects.
Improper Cleaning: Using abrasive cleaning materials or methods, like a rough cloth or harsh chemical cleaners, can scratch the surface of a diamond and lead to abrasions.
Wear and Tear Over Time: With long-term wear, diamonds, especially those in rings or other frequently worn jewelry, may experience gradual abrasion from continuous exposure to friction.
Types of Abrasion:
Facet Abrasion:

This occurs when the sharp edges of a diamond’s facets become worn down. Facet abrasions are usually visible under magnification (typically at 10x magnification using a jeweller’s loupe). The edges may appear rounded, dulled, or chipped.
Facet abrasions reduce the diamond’s brilliance and sparkle because they disrupt the way light reflects from the facets.
Culet Abrasion:

The culet is the small facet at the very bottom of the diamond. If this facet is damaged or worn down, it can lead to an abraded culet, making it look flattened or chipped.
An abraded culet can affect the diamond’s overall light performance and may also compromise its durability over time.
Girdle Abrasion:

The girdle is the outer edge of the diamond, where the top and bottom of the diamond meet. Abrasion to the girdle is often caused by the diamond rubbing against hard surfaces or being improperly set in jewelry.
If the girdle becomes abraded, it can affect the diamond’s symmetry and shape.
Surface Abrasion:

Surface abrasion occurs when the diamond’s external surface develops fine scratches. These are usually not as visible to the naked eye but can still affect the diamond’s appearance under magnification.
Impact of Abrasion on Diamond Appearance:
Reduced Brilliance:

When facets, culet, or edges become abraded, they may no longer reflect light in the same way, leading to less brilliance or sparkle. Diamonds rely on their sharp facets to reflect light and create the characteristic brilliance. Abrasions can disrupt this process.
Visual Imperfections:

Small chips, scratches, or worn areas caused by abrasions can be noticeable under magnification, and in some cases, even to the naked eye if the abrasion is severe enough. This can affect the diamond’s overall appeal.
Impact on Durability:

While diamonds are one of the hardest natural materials, abrasion can lead to further damage if the stone is exposed to continued rough conditions. For example, an abraded culet or facet edge could eventually become more vulnerable to chipping or breaking.
How to Identify Abrasion on a Diamond:
Magnification: The most effective way to identify abrasion on a diamond is through the use of a loupe (magnifying lens) at 10x magnification. Abraded surfaces will appear less sharp, with small chips, scratches, or dulling of the facet edges.
Grading Report: When diamonds are graded by gemological laboratories, like DCLA, the presence of abrasions may be noted if they are significant. Minor abrasions may not always be documented, as they might not impact the diamond’s overall grading or appearance.
Impact on Diamond Value:
Minor Abrasions: Small abrasions generally have a minimal effect on the value of the diamond, especially if they are not visible without magnification. However, they may be noted on a grading report as a sign of wear, which could slightly affect resale value.
Major Abrasions: Significant abrasions that affect the overall appearance of the diamond can lead to a reduction in value. The diamond’s brilliance and light performance will be diminished, which can reduce its visual appeal and market worth.
Repairing Abrasion on a Diamond:
Polishing:
In most cases, abrasions can be repaired through polishing. This involves carefully smoothing out the affected areas to restore the diamond’s sharp facets. This can improve its appearance and light reflection, but it may slightly alter the size or proportions of the diamond.
Re-cutting:
For more severe abrasions, the diamond may require re-cutting. This involves removing a small amount of material from the diamond to restore its symmetry and proportions. While this can improve the diamond’s appearance, it can result in a loss of carat weight.
Preventing Abrasion:
Proper Handling: To prevent abrasion, always handle the diamond with care. Avoid wearing it during activities that could expose it to rough surfaces or physical impacts (e.g., sports, heavy manual work).
Jewelry Care: Keep diamonds in protective settings to prevent them from coming into contact with other hard objects. Regular cleaning and inspection can also help maintain the diamond’s appearance.
Safe Storage: When not wearing your diamond, store it in a soft cloth pouch or jewelry box to avoid unnecessary friction or exposure to other jewelry that might cause abrasion.
Summary:
Abrasion on a diamond refers to surface wear, which can diminish the diamond’s brilliance and appearance over time.
Facet, culet, and girdle abrasions are the most common types, with facet abrasions having the most noticeable impact on brilliance.
DCLA grading reports can help identify and assess the severity of abrasions.
Abrasions can be repaired through polishing or re-cutting, although major abrasions may affect the diamond’s value and light performance.

The archaic Greek word from which the word “diamond” is derived is “adamas” (ἀδάμας). It means “invincible,” “unconquerable,” or “untameable”. The term was used to describe materials that were thought to be indestructible or incredibly hard. Over time, this term was associated specifically with diamonds due to their hardness and durability.

The word “diamond” itself comes from the Greek word “adamas,” reflecting the stone’s remarkable strength, as diamonds are the hardest known natural material on Earth. The name emphasizes their unyielding nature and resilience.

Annealing diamond refers to a process in which diamonds are heated to high temperatures in a controlled environment to alter their internal structure or appearance. However, diamond annealing is quite different from annealing in other materials, like metals, because diamonds are already a highly stable, hard material. The process is typically used to modify certain properties of the diamond, such as colour or internal inclusions, rather than improving the material’s hardness or strength.

Here are the key aspects of diamond annealing:

1. Annealing to Alter Colour:
Annealing can be used to change or enhance the colour of a diamond. This is often done to lighten or darken the stone’s hue, or to bring out more desirable tones, like in fancy colour diamonds.

Heating Process: The diamond is subjected to high temperatures (sometimes exceeding 1000°C) in a controlled environment, typically in a vacuum or in an atmosphere of certain gases, such as nitrogen or hydrogen.
Effect on Colour: The heat causes changes in the diamond’s crystal structure, which can alter how light interacts with the stone, thus changing its colour. For instance, diamonds with brownish hues may turn to a lighter yellow or even white, while others might enhance their natural colour intensity.
2. Healing Inclusions (Internal Cracks or Imperfections):
Another purpose of annealing is to reduce the visibility of certain inclusions, particularly graining or small cracks. In this case, annealing can:

Relieve Stress: The heat from annealing can relieve internal stress in the diamond, causing cracks or inclusions to become less visible. This is especially useful for diamonds that have inclusions located near the surface, which can affect the diamond’s clarity.
Mend Cracks: Under controlled conditions, the annealing process can sometimes cause minor surface fractures to heal by encouraging the material around the crack to bond back together.
3. Limitations and Risks:
High Temperature: Because diamonds are made of carbon in a crystal lattice structure, they can be sensitive to extreme heat. The temperature and environment must be carefully controlled during the annealing process to prevent damaging the stone. If not done properly, excessive heat can cause the diamond to fracture or even shatter.
Not Suitable for All Diamonds: Annealing is not always suitable for all diamonds. For instance, diamonds with a high degree of internal stress or fractures may not respond well to heat treatment, as the process could cause further damage.
4. Impact on Diamond Value:
Colour Alteration: If annealing is used to improve the colour of a diamond, it can enhance the stone’s appearance and potentially increase its value, especially for diamonds with rare or sought-after colours.
Clarity Improvement: If annealing successfully reduces the visibility of inclusions, it can improve the diamond’s clarity, which could also make the diamond more valuable. However, some buyers may be cautious about diamonds that have undergone treatment, as they may prefer natural diamonds without any enhancements.
Disclosure: When diamonds are annealed or treated in any way, it’s important for sellers to disclose the treatment. Some buyers prefer untreated, natural diamonds, and the presence of treatment may affect the resale value or marketability.
5. Annealing in Industry:
While annealing is a term more commonly associated with metals or other materials, it is sometimes used in the diamond industry for specific treatments to improve the visual appeal or structural integrity of the diamond. The process is not typically used to improve hardness—since diamonds are already the hardest known material—but rather to address aesthetic and internal concerns.

Summary:
Annealing diamond involves heating the diamond to high temperatures in a controlled environment to alter its colour or reduce the visibility of internal inclusions.
It is often used to enhance the colour or improve the clarity of diamonds.
The process requires careful control to avoid damaging the diamond.
Annealed diamonds should be disclosed as treated, as they may affect the value, depending on the buyer’s preferences.

Diamond or Jewellery Appraisal or Valuation is a professional evaluation of a diamond or piece of jewellery to determine its market value, quality, and authenticity. Appraisals are commonly used for a variety of purposes, such as insurance coverage, estate planning, selling, or simply understanding the true worth of a piece.

Here’s a detailed overview of what diamond and jewellery appraisal or valuation involves:

1. What is a Diamond Appraisal?
A diamond appraisal is an expert assessment of a diamond’s value based on specific criteria like quality, size, and rarity. The appraisal typically provides a written report or certificate that outlines the key characteristics of the diamond, which will help in determining its worth in the market.

2. Purpose of Diamond or Jewellery Appraisal
Insurance Purposes: Appraisals are commonly needed to ensure that valuable jewellery is properly insured for loss, theft, or damage. The value provided by the appraiser is used to set an appropriate insurance policy.
Selling or Resale: If you are selling a diamond or piece of jewellery, an appraisal helps to determine its market value, which is important for negotiating a fair price.
Estate Planning: When dividing an estate, appraisals help establish the value of diamonds and jewellery to ensure assets are fairly distributed.
Divorce Settlements: Appraisals can assist in determining the value of jewellery in the context of a divorce, ensuring a fair distribution of assets.
Taxation Purposes: Appraisals may be required when valuing jewellery for estate taxes, donations, or capital gains tax.
3. Key Factors in Diamond Valuation
The value of a diamond is typically assessed based on the 4 C’s:

Carat Weight:

The weight of the diamond is a major factor. Larger diamonds are generally more valuable due to their rarity.
Cut:

The cut refers to how well the diamond has been shaped and faceted. It affects how light is reflected and determines the diamond’s brilliance and sparkle.
The cut grade (Excellent, Very Good, Good, etc.) plays a critical role in determining value.
Colour:

The colour of a diamond is graded on a scale from D (colourless) to Z (light yellow or brown). Diamonds that are colourless or near colourless are typically more valuable.
Clarity:

Clarity refers to the presence of internal or external flaws (called inclusions and blemishes). The fewer imperfections, the higher the clarity, and generally, the higher the value.
Certification:

Diamonds that come with a certification from a reputable grading lab like GIA, DCLA, or AGS are generally more valuable because they offer an independent verification of the diamond’s quality.
4. Jewellery Valuation
While diamonds are the focal point of many jewellery valuations, jewellery itself is also valued based on factors such as:

Metal Type and Weight: The karat and type of metal (gold, platinum, silver, etc.) contribute to the value. The weight of the metal, often measured in grams, plays an important role, especially for gold and platinum.
Gemstones: The inclusion of other gemstones (rubies, sapphires, emeralds, etc.) can increase the value of the jewellery. The quality, cut, and size of these stones are important factors in their appraisal.
Craftsmanship: The level of craftsmanship in the jewellery, such as whether it is mass-produced or custom-made, can affect its value. Handcrafted pieces or designer jewellery often carry a premium.
Antique or Vintage Value: Jewellery that is considered vintage or antique may have historical or collector’s value, which can increase its worth.
Brand: Certain designer or branded jewellery (e.g., Cartier, Tiffany, Van Cleef & Arpels) can significantly increase the value.
5. The Appraisal Process
Here is an outline of the general process involved in diamond and jewellery appraisal:

Initial Inspection:

The appraiser will inspect the diamond or jewellery, examining its physical characteristics, such as shape, size, and setting.
For diamonds, the 4 C’s will be assessed, and any certificates or grading reports provided by labs like DCLA, GIA, or AGS will be reviewed.
Gemological Testing:

A gemologist may use specific tools, such as a loupe or microscope, to evaluate internal inclusions or flaws in the diamond or gemstones. They may also test the metal composition of the jewellery.
Research and Market Comparison:

The appraiser will compare the jewellery or diamond to similar items currently on the market to determine its fair market value.
For diamonds, the appraiser will use databases or retail price guides to ensure accurate pricing.
Written Report:

The appraiser will provide a detailed written report that outlines the diamond’s characteristics, including the 4 C’s, or the jewellery’s key factors (e.g., weight, metal, gemstones, and condition).
The report will typically include a valuation or estimated market value, and in some cases, the report may also include a photograph of the jewellery or diamond for identification purposes.
6. Certification and Standards
A certified appraiser will perform the valuation. In many cases, the appraiser will hold certifications from professional organizations like the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) or the National Association of Jewelry Appraisers (NAJA).
For diamonds, having a certified grading report from recognized laboratories like GIA, DCLA, or AGSL can add credibility to the appraisal.
7. Cost of Diamond or Jewellery Appraisal
Appraisal Fees: The cost of an appraisal depends on various factors, such as the complexity of the piece, the appraiser’s qualifications, and the region. It is usually charged either by the hour or as a flat fee for each item.
For example, appraisers may charge £50-£150 per hour or a flat rate of £50-£200 per piece, depending on its value and complexity.
Some jewellery stores or pawnshops offer free appraisals, but it is important to ensure they are reputable and unbiased.
8. Diamond Appraisal vs. Diamond Grading
Grading involves evaluating the quality of the diamond based on the 4 C’s, typically performed by an independent lab like DCLA or GIA. This is a scientific, objective assessment.
Appraisal, on the other hand, involves determining the market value of the diamond or jewellery, which may include the cost of the stone itself, craftsmanship, rarity, and market conditions.

The Asscher Cut is a distinctive and elegant diamond shape, known for its square shape and step-cut faceting. It is similar to the emerald cut, but it features larger step facets and a more defined, square outline. The Asscher cut was first developed in 1902 by the Asscher brothers, a renowned family of diamond cutters in Amsterdam, and has become a popular choice for those seeking a vintage or Art Deco-style diamond.

Characteristics of Asscher Cut Diamond
Shape:

The Asscher cut is a square shape with cut corners, forming an octagonal appearance. The corners are typically beveled, creating an elegant, almost “octagon-shaped” look. This shape gives the diamond a vintage and timeless appeal.
Faceting Style:

The step-cut faceting involves parallel facets that descend in a series of steps. This style creates a hall of mirrors effect, where light reflects off the facets in a dramatic, shimmering manner. The larger facets allow you to see the diamond’s clarity more easily, which makes clarity a very important factor when selecting an Asscher cut diamond.
Brilliance:

Unlike brilliant cuts, which are designed to maximize sparkle through more facets, the Asscher cut is known for its depth and clarity rather than its brilliance. The step-cut nature gives the diamond a more subdued, sophisticated sparkle compared to other cuts like round brilliant or princess cut diamonds.
Size and Proportions:

Asscher cut diamonds are typically offered in square shapes, with proportions that are generally very specific to achieve the signature look. The diamond should have a length-to-width ratio of around 1.00 to 1.05, meaning the diamond is almost perfectly square.
Clarity and Colour:

The Asscher cut emphasizes the clarity of a diamond. Due to the large facets and open table, any inclusions or blemishes are more visible than they would be in a more brilliant cut. Therefore, it’s important to select an Asscher cut diamond with higher clarity, often at least VS1 or higher, to ensure a clean, clear appearance.
Regarding colour, the cut also tends to reveal the colour more clearly, especially in diamonds with lower colour grades. As such, higher colour diamonds (like those rated G or higher) are recommended for the Asscher cut to maintain the stone’s beauty.
Depth and Table Size:

A well-cut Asscher diamond has a deep, octagonal shape with a wide table. A shallow cut may lead to an undesirable look with less brilliance, while a deep cut may appear smaller for its carat weight.
Benefits of the Asscher Cut
Vintage Appeal: The Asscher cut is a favourite among those seeking a vintage or retro aesthetic. It was particularly popular during the Art Deco period and remains a popular choice for engagement rings and high-end jewellery.
Timeless Elegance: Its symmetrical and geometric design offers a sense of timeless beauty and elegance. The Asscher cut has an enduring appeal that stands out from modern cuts like the round brilliant or princess cut.
Emphasis on Clarity: The clean lines and large facets of the Asscher cut make it an excellent choice for diamonds with good clarity, as the cut enhances the diamond’s internal characteristics.
Less Sparkle, More Sophistication: The Asscher cut tends to have a more subdued sparkle, which some buyers find appealing for its refined, understated look. It’s perfect for those who prefer classic elegance over extreme brilliance.
Considerations When Buying an Asscher Cut Diamond
Clarity: Given the diamond’s faceting style, inclusions are more visible in an Asscher cut, so it’s important to choose a diamond with a high level of clarity (preferably VS1 or better).
Cut Quality: The quality of the cut is very important in an Asscher cut diamond. A poorly cut Asscher diamond can appear cloudy or dark due to poor light reflection. Ensure the diamond has well-proportioned facets.
Price: The Asscher cut is often priced similarly to the emerald cut and can be slightly less expensive than round brilliant cuts, depending on its size and quality. However, due to its vintage and unique appeal, it can also command a premium price in certain cases, especially for larger stones.
Asscher Cut vs. Other Square Cuts
Princess Cut: The princess cut is also a square-shaped diamond but features more facets, leading to greater brilliance and sparkle compared to the Asscher cut. The Asscher cut, however, has a more classic, vintage style and is often chosen for its geometrical elegance.
Radiant Cut: The radiant cut is another square diamond, but it features both step-cut and brilliant-cut facets, which give it more brilliance than the Asscher cut, which focuses on clarity and symmetry over sparkle.