An iconic Cartier bracelet with 63.66 carats of pear-shaped D color, internally flawless diamond set on rock crystal is expected to fetch between HK$40 million and HK$65 million (US$5.16 million and US$8.39 million) at Sotheby’s Hong Kong’s sale of magnificent jewels in April.
Taking nearly 2,000 hours to create, the bangle-bracelet from the collection “L’Odyssée de Cartier —Parcours d’un Style,” pays homage to an Art Deco inspiration featuring sparkling stones and the French maison’s emblematic panther, orchid, and Oriental motifs.
Louis Cartier, the brand’s third-generation jeweler was a pioneer in working with rock crystal, which became popular in the 1920s. Cartier utilized a polishing technique from the Renaissance period to give a soft shine to rock crystal which, when paired with a diamond, creates an intriguing light effect.
The unique piece “combines a phenomenal diamond, mesmerizing design and impeccable craftsmanship, and represents a high jewelry collectible that will shine through time,” Wenhao Yu, deputy chairman of jewelry at Sotheby’s Asia, said in a statement.
Also on offer is “Circle of Happiness,” a bangle made of 277.7 carats of green jadeite-jade from Myanmar. Sotheby’s did not disclose the estimate of this bracelet.
Sotheby’s sale of magnificent jewels will also feature pieces from the houses of Boucheron, Bulgari, Chanel, Chopard, Graff, Harry Winston, Hermès, Van Cleef & Arpels, and more.
“The appetite for high-quality jewels has never been stronger in Asia, with discerning collectors looking for rare diamonds and gemstones, as well as unique and iconic designs,” Yu said.
A Cartier emerald and diamond ring blew past five fancy colored diamonds to become the top lot at Sotheby’s New York Magnificent Jewels auction held Wednesday. It fetched $3.6 million, more than three-and-a-half times its high estimate.
The ring features a 21.86-carat Colombian square-emerald-cut emerald flanked by diamonds and mounted on 18k yellow gold. The emerald is described in the grading report as having “minor clarity enhancement” and a “richly saturated medium deep slightly bluish green, slightly included with a few surface reaching inclusions, and the girdle bearing a chip and a few nicks, noticeable under 10x magnification.”
The ring was from the collection of Cecile Zilkha, best known for her lifelong interest in the arts, particularly The Metropolitan Opera.
Private collections featuring a variety of signed jewels were an important part of this sale, with many items from these collections far exceeding estimates. All 29 jewels from the Cecile Zilkha collection sold, fetching a total of $11.7 million, nearly double the estimate for the collection. Eleven jewels from the collection of Marylou Whitney, the philanthropist, thoroughbred breeder, arts patron and society hostess, all sold fetching a total of $1.7 million.
The sale overall was quite successful, taking in a total of $46.9 million, the highest total for a Sotheby’s jewelry auction since 2017. In addition, 91% of the lots sold, with 74% of the lots fetching prices above their high estimates and nine pieces surpassing $1 million.
1.71-carat heart-shaped fancy red diamond with SI2 clarity fetched more than $3.1 million SOTHEBY’S
Fancy colored diamonds, including three heart-shaped gems, made up the top five lots prior to the sale. However two of the gems failed to meet the reserve price. The first was the anticipated top lot of the sale, a pink gold and platinum ring set with a 5.03-carat cut-cornered rectangular mixed-cut fancy vivid pink diamond, accented with two cut-cornered triangular step-cut fancy intense blue diamonds. Its estimate was $9 million – $12 million.
The second was a ring centered with a 2.28-carat fancy vivid blue heart-shaped diamond, encircled by round yellow and framed by white diamonds with an estimate of $2.25 million – $3.25 million.
The three remaining fancy colored diamond lots sold within estimates and were the next three top lots of the sale. They are:
* A 1.71-carat heart-shaped fancy red diamond with SI2 clarity surrounded by white diamonds and mounted on an 18k white and pink gold pendant for a necklace. It fetched more than $3.1 million.
3.67-carat fancy intense blue diamond fetched more than $3.1 million SOTHEBY’S
* A 3.67-carat fancy intense blue diamond in a cut-cornered rectangular modified brilliant-cut diamond. The stone is flanked by two emerald-cut diamonds and mounted on an 18k white gold ring. It fetched more than $2.6 million.
A 2-carat fancy vivid orange diamond fetched nearly $1.9 million SOTHEBY’S
* An 18k white and pink gold ring centered with a 2-carat fancy vivid orange diamond framed and accented by round diamonds that fetched nearly $1.9 million.
As mentioned, private collections were an important part of this sale. In addition to the Cartier emerald ring, the Cecile Zilkha collection comprised of 28 other signed and historic jewels. Among the standouts:
Emerald and diamond earclips by Bulgari fetched more than $1.1 million SOTHEBY’S
* Emerald and diamond earclips by Bulgari that fetched more than $1.1 million, double its high estimate;
* A 1930s diamond rivière by Bulgari that fetched $806,500, well above its high estimate;
* A silver-topped gold, sapphire and diamond brooch that fetched $625,000, more than double its high estimate;
* Earclips by Harry Winston featuring two cut-cornered square modified brilliant-cut Fancy Intense yellow diamonds weighing 15.24 and 14.22 carats that fetched $528,200, within estimates; and
* A ruby and diamond bracelet by Harry Winston that fetched $441,000, well above the high estimate.
A Cartier natural pearl necklace from the collection of Marylou Whitney fetched more than $1.6 … [+] SOTHEBY’S
The sale ended with 11 jewels from the collection of Marylou Whitney. The top lot in this collection was a Cartier necklace composed of 32 rare natural pearls with a diamond clasp. It fetched more than $1.6 million, more than three times its high estimate.
Emerald, ruby, sapphire and diamond Mughal-inspired necklace by David Webb sold for $327,600 SOTHEBY’S
In addition, two David Webb pieces from the Whitney collection performed extremely well. The first was a platinum bracelet set with 10 emerald-cut diamonds weighing 21.16 carats. It fetched $352,800, above estimates. The second was a showstopper Mughal-inspired necklace that boldly displays a 181.95-carat translucent carved emerald and 10 cabochon emeralds that weigh a total of 126.30 carats, along with rubies and diamonds. The necklace sold for $327,600, more than triple its high estimate.
Van Cleef & Arpels mystery-set sapphire and diamond flower brooch fetched $1.1 million SOTHEBY’S
While Cartier, Bulgari and Harry Winston dominated the headline sales, jewels from Van Cleef & Arpels may have had the biggest impact overall. Twenty-eight jewels by the Parisian luxury brand were sold at the auction. The top lot from Van Cleef & Arpels was a mystery-set sapphire and diamond brooch designed as a flower from a New York collector that sold for more than $1.1 million, nine times its high estimate. That was certainly a headline sale.
An indication that private collections and signed jewels were going to dominate came at the very beginning of the sale. The first 10 lots from a private family collection were by Van Cleef & Arpels. They all sold well above their estimates.
Other auction highlights included:
Jadeite, natural pearl and diamond necklace by Raymond Yard, circa 1935, fetched $1.6 million SOTHEBY’S
* A jadeite, natural pearl and diamond necklace by Raymond Yard, circa 1935, sold for $1.6 million after competition from three phone bidders, more than four times its high estimate. The piece was offered from the estate of Mary Lily Kenan Flagler.
Cartier sapphire and diamond bracelet in a fan design, circa 1960s, fetched $1 million SOTHEBY’S
* A Cartier sapphire and diamond bracelet in a fan design, circa 1960s, that fetched just over $1 million, just topping its high estimate.
A ring set with a 1.08-carat pear-shaped fancy vivid blue diamond sold for $927,500 SOTHEBY’S
* A ring set with a 1.08-carat pear-shaped fancy vivid blue diamond accented by round diamonds sold for $927,500, above estimates. The piece was offered by a Texan collector.
Sotheby’s will sell a 118.88-carat, royal-blue, unheated Burmese sapphire in Hong Kong next week, the largest of its kind the auction house has offered in 20 years.
The cushion-shaped stone, surrounded by pear-shaped diamonds weighing a total of 16.06 carats, will lead the October 7 Magnificent Jewels sale, Sotheby’s said Monday.
A pear-shaped, 4.84-carat, fancy-vivid-blue, internally flawless diamond ring is also set to go under the hammer. The piece, which also features two brilliant-cut diamonds, each weighing 1.10 carats, has a high estimate of $8.5 million.
Also up for auction are a pair of pendant earrings featuring brilliant-cut, fancy-intense-blue diamonds weighing 1.95 and 1.63 carats. Those stones suspend two pear-shaped, D-color, internally flawless, type IIa diamonds weighing 5.95 and 5.24-carats. The set has a presale value of up to $4.6 million.
In addition, Sotheby’s will feature a cushion-shaped, 6.41-carat, pigeon’s blood Burmese ruby ring surrounded by French-cut white diamonds. The jewel, which was designed and mounted by Hong Kong-based jeweler Forms, carries an upper estimate of $2.9 million. Meanwhile, a ring containing a cut-cornered rectangular modified brilliant-cut, 18.68-carat, fancy-light-purplish-pink diamond is set to fetch up to $2.2 million at the Hong Kong sale.
“The jewelry market has proven to be highly resilient, with our clients in Asia eyeing the best quality jewels on offer,” said Wenhao Yu, Sotheby’s deputy chairman of jewelry for Asia.
Sotheby’s will showcase the pieces in Hong Kong from October 3 to 6 prior to the sale.
Sotheby’s is set to auction off a 102 carat diamond that could become the most expensive jewel ever sold to an online bidder.
The stone, a 102.39 carat D Colour Flawless Oval Diamond, could fetch $10 million to $30 million. Only seven flawless white diamonds of more than 100 carats have ever been sold at auction. It is the second-largest oval diamond of its kind ever sold at auction.
“One hundred-carat diamonds as a rule are exceedingly rare,” said Quig Bruning, head of Sotheby’s jewelry department in New York. “One hundred-carat D flawless are even more rare.”
While Sotheby’s doesn’t have an official estimate, comparable diamonds have sold for between $11 million and $30 million in the past, Bruning said.
The stone, described by Sotheby’s as “the size of a lollipop,” will be sold at a live auction in Hong Kong on Oct. 5, but it will also be open to online bidders starting on Tuesday. If it’s purchased by an online bidder, it would likely top the record for the most expensive piece of jewelry ever sold online a pair of fancy blue and pink diamond earrings that sold for $6 million online in 2016.
The 102 carat stone was cut from a 271 carat rough diamond that was discovered in the Victor Mine in Ontario in 2018. The diamond was cut and polished over the course of a year by Diacore to bring out its “best brilliance, fire and scintillation,” according to Sotheby’s. The stone belongs to an elite subgroup of diamonds known as “Type IIa,” which are the most chemically pure type of diamond with the highest level of transparency.
Demand for the rarest, largest diamonds has strengthened during the coronavirus pandemic, as the wealthy have benefited from stronger stock markets and investors look for long-term stores of value in a financial world awash with cash.
While demand for everyday jewelry sold in stores has plunged since people aren’t visiting malls and shops as often, or wearing jewelry as often prices for so-called investible diamonds have remained strong. Wealthy buyers, especially in Asia and the Middle East, covet diamonds as the ultimate hard-asset, since they are durable and portable.
Sales of jewelry and diamonds online have also increased, as people buy more from home. Sotheby’s said its online jewelry sales have totaled $31 million this year, seven times more than the same period last year. It has sold three lots for more than $1 million online.
“The retail experience going into the store, trying things on that’s gone right now, or at the very least has changed substantially,” Bruning said. “A lot of things have moved online, and we have been able to really capitalize on that by showcasing things in a new and compelling kind of way globally.”
When asked whether the buyer of a 100 carat diamond would ever wear it, he said: “Absolutely. They want to enjoy them.”
Sotheby’s brought in a total of $40.2 million at its Hong Kong auction Wednesday as a 5 carat blue diamond fetched $13.8 million.
The price of the step cut, fancy vivid blue, named the Ai diamond, after the Chinese word for love, fell within its estimate of $12.5 million to $15.3 million. The final selling price translated to $2.8 million per carat.
Another blue diamond a pear shaped, fancy intense blue weighing 3.47 carats sold for $3.1 million at the Magnificent Jewels and Jadeite auction against a pre-sale estimate of $2.7 million to $3.6 million. A step cut, 18.45 carat, D color, VVS2 clarity diamond ring fetched $2.3 million, smashing its estimate of $1.3 million to $1.7 million.
However, only one piece out of a collection of jewels by designer Wallace Chan found a buyer: a pair of jade and diamond earrings, estimated at $70,160 to $108,430, which went for $87,700.
Several jewels by Harry Winston, Van Cleef & Arpels and Cartier also sold at the auction.
