Blood Diamond

Blood Diamond

A blood diamond (also known as a conflict diamond) refers to a diamond that is mined in war zones and sold to finance armed conflict against governments. The term gained prominence in the late 1990s due to the civil wars in Sierra Leone, Liberia, and other parts of West Africa, where diamonds were used to fund brutal wars, exploitation, and human rights abuses.

Key Characteristics of Blood Diamonds:
Source of Conflict:

Blood diamonds are often mined in regions where armed groups take control of diamond-rich areas and use the sale of diamonds to finance their military campaigns, including the purchase of weapons and equipment.
These diamonds are typically mined under inhumane conditions, with workers, often including children, subjected to forced labour, violence, and abuse.
Impact on Local Communities:

The mining of blood diamonds often involves severe exploitation of workers. They may be forced to work in dangerous conditions without adequate safety measures, receive little or no compensation, and suffer physical violence.
In some cases, communities are displaced from their homes, and the profits from the diamonds are controlled by rebel groups, rather than benefiting local communities or contributing to economic development.
Global Response and the Kimberley Process:

The Kimberley Process Certification Scheme (KPCS), launched in 2003, aims to prevent the trade of blood diamonds by requiring countries to certify that diamonds are sourced from conflict-free areas. The initiative was designed to create a global standard for diamond certification and ensure that diamonds sold on the international market are not financing conflict.
While the Kimberley Process has made progress in reducing the trade in blood diamonds, loopholes and weak enforcement still allow some conflict diamonds to enter the market.
Ethical Concerns:

The sale of blood diamonds raises significant ethical concerns in the jewellery industry. Consumers and advocacy groups have called for more transparency in the diamond supply chain to ensure that diamonds are ethically sourced.
Many jewellers and diamond retailers have pledged to sell only conflict-free diamonds, and some offer guarantees or certificates of origin to confirm that their diamonds were not sourced from conflict zones.
Impact on the Diamond Industry:

The term “blood diamond” has had a lasting impact on the reputation of the diamond industry, highlighting the need for ethical sourcing and responsible business practices.
Public awareness and consumer demand for ethically sourced diamonds have led to the rise of sustainable and conflict-free options, such as lab-grown diamonds and diamonds certified by organisations like the Responsible Jewellery Council.
Alternatives to Blood Diamonds:

Many consumers choose to buy ethically sourced diamonds or lab-grown diamonds as alternatives to blood diamonds. Fairmined and Fairtrade gold are also options for buyers seeking to ensure their jewellery is ethically produced.
Some jewellers also offer diamonds that have been certified as conflict-free through reputable certification schemes such as the Kimberley Process or RJC certification.
Cultural and Legal Implications:

The issue of blood diamonds has drawn attention to the human rights violations that can accompany the extraction of natural resources. The global trade in these diamonds has also led to legal challenges in various countries, with some governments and organisations advocating for stricter regulations and more robust certification systems.
The term “blood diamond” has become synonymous with the broader humanitarian crisis that can occur when natural resources are exploited for profit in conflict regions.

Blemish

A blemish is a flaw on the exterior of a diamond, such as a scratch, abrasion, nick or chip.

A blemish on a diamond refers to an external imperfection or flaw that is visible on the surface of the diamond. These imperfections can affect the appearance and clarity of the stone and are one of the factors used in determining the diamond’s overall quality and value.

Key Points About Blemishes in Diamonds
Types of Blemishes: Blemishes can take several forms, depending on their nature and how they appear on the diamond’s surface. Some common types include:

Scratches: Fine lines or marks on the surface of the diamond caused by friction or contact with another object. They are often very small but can still affect the diamond’s clarity and appearance.
Nicks: Small chips or indentations that can occur on the diamond’s surface, often as a result of accidental impacts.
Pits: Tiny holes or depressions on the surface of the diamond, usually caused by natural growth conditions or external damage. These are often very small but noticeable under magnification.
Polish Lines: Shiny, sometimes curved lines on the surface of the diamond that result from the polishing process. These are typically not considered major flaws unless they are deep or visible to the naked eye.
Clouds: A series of very tiny inclusions or a grouping of them that can sometimes appear on the surface of the diamond. These may look like a hazy or cloudy area on the surface.
Knot: A type of blemish where an internal inclusion reaches the surface, causing a rough area or hole on the diamond’s surface. This is a significant flaw and may lower the clarity and value of the diamond.
Causes of Blemishes:

Cutting and Polishing Process: During the cutting and polishing stages, external imperfections may occur if the diamond is not handled carefully or the polishing wheel creates surface marks.
External Damage: Blemishes can also occur from external impacts or from the diamond coming into contact with other materials. A diamond can get scratched, chipped, or otherwise damaged if it strikes a hard surface or is exposed to abrasive materials.
Natural Growth: Some blemishes are natural features that form as the diamond is created under extreme heat and pressure. These marks can remain on the surface, especially if the stone has not been polished or cut to remove them.
Impact on Diamond Value:

The presence of blemishes can affect the clarity grade of a diamond. Diamonds with more or larger blemishes will generally receive a lower clarity grade because they detract from the stone’s overall appearance.
Blemishes that are visible to the naked eye are usually more detrimental to the diamond’s appearance and value than those that are only visible under magnification.
Minor blemishes, such as small polish lines or scratches that are barely visible, may have minimal impact on the diamond’s overall price, especially in diamonds with higher clarity grades. However, larger or more noticeable blemishes can significantly reduce the diamond’s value.
Blemish vs. Inclusions:

Blemishes are external flaws, whereas inclusions are internal imperfections that exist within the diamond. Both types of flaws are considered when grading a diamond’s clarity, but blemishes are typically easier to detect, especially when viewed under a jeweller’s loupe.
While inclusions are often hidden inside the diamond, blemishes are located on the surface and are therefore more likely to impact the diamond’s aesthetic appeal.
Blemish Detection:

Blemishes can often be detected through magnification (such as a jeweller’s loupe, typically 10x magnification), but some smaller blemishes may not be visible without a trained eye.
GIA (Gemological Institute of America) and other grading labs will examine diamonds for blemishes as part of the clarity grading process, where the diamond will be assessed for the presence of surface imperfections.
Dealing with Blemishes:

Professional Polishing: In some cases, blemishes can be removed or minimized by re-polishing the diamond. However, this process might cause a slight loss in carat weight, as a portion of the diamond’s surface may need to be ground away to eliminate the blemish.
Recutting: If a diamond has a large or deep blemish, it may be possible to recut the stone to remove the imperfection, though this would affect the diamond’s shape and carat weight.
Precautions:

To prevent blemishes, it’s important to handle diamonds with care. When cleaning or storing a diamond, avoid exposing it to harsh chemicals or abrasive materials that could cause scratches or other damage. Additionally, when setting a diamond into jewellery, care should be taken to avoid causing any surface damage.

Bezel Facets

Bezel facets in a diamond refer to the flat, triangular facets that are found on the crown of a diamond, located just above the table (the top flat surface). These facets are part of the diamond’s overall faceting pattern and play a significant role in its brilliance and light performance.

Key Points About Bezel Facets in Diamonds
Location:

Bezel facets are located on the crown of the diamond, just above the table and below the bezel edge (the part of the diamond that meets the girdle).
These facets are positioned around the center of the diamond and typically face outward from the table.
Shape and Number:

The bezel facets are triangular in shape, with a flat surface that creates a smooth, reflective area.
Most diamonds, particularly those with brilliant-cut faceting, have two bezel facets on each side of the diamond, for a total of four bezel facets in a round brilliant-cut diamond. However, the number and shape of bezel facets can vary in different diamond cuts.
Function and Light Performance:

Bezel facets contribute to the diamond’s light performance by helping to reflect light that enters the diamond from the top. They redirect light through the crown and pavilion, enhancing the diamond’s sparkle and overall brilliance.
These facets work together with the main facets, such as the star facets and kite facets, to improve the diamond’s ability to reflect and refract light, creating the fire and brilliance that diamonds are famous for.
Bezel Facets in Different Diamond Cuts:

Round Brilliant Cut: In a round brilliant-cut diamond, the bezel facets are typically small and contribute to the overall symmetry of the cut. They help transition between the table and the rest of the crown.
Princess Cut: In a princess cut diamond, the facets are more square or rectangular in shape, but they still perform a similar function by helping to reflect light and create brilliance.
Cushion Cut: For cushion cuts, the bezel facets might be larger due to the unique shape of the stone, but they still function to add to the diamond’s overall brilliance and appearance.
Impact on Diamond’s Appearance:

Bezel facets are important for polish quality and symmetry in a diamond. Well-formed bezel facets can enhance the overall sharpness of the diamond’s appearance, while poorly executed bezel facets can detract from the diamond’s visual appeal.
While these facets don’t have as much impact on the overall clarity of a diamond, their presence helps define the shape and faceting of the diamond.
Bezel Facet and Setting Considerations:

When setting a diamond in jewellery, the bezel setting is sometimes used, where a metal band surrounds the diamond’s edges. In this case, the bezel facets can work in conjunction with the bezel setting to protect the edges of the diamond while also enhancing its brilliance and shine.
Conclusion
Bezel facets are a critical element in the diamond’s faceting pattern, particularly on the crown, where they help direct light into the diamond and contribute to its brilliance and fire. These triangular facets play a significant role in the diamond’s overall aesthetic, and their quality is a key factor in determining the diamond’s appearance and light performance. When considering diamonds, especially those with brilliant-cut faceting, it’s essential to look for well-cut bezel facets to ensure that the stone will have the desired sparkle and symmetry.

Black Diamond

A black diamond is a type of diamond that is opaque or dark in colour, typically appearing black or very deep gray due to its unique internal structure. Unlike traditional white diamonds, black diamonds are not transparent and do not have the same level of brilliance or sparkle. Instead, they exhibit a matte or metallic appearance.

Key Characteristics of Black Diamonds
Colour:

The colour of black diamonds can range from deep black to dark gray. The darkness is caused by a high concentration of inclusions (such as graphite, hematite, and pyrite) within the diamond’s structure.
The inclusions are responsible for the opaque nature of the stone, absorbing light rather than allowing it to pass through as it does in colourless or white diamonds.
Structure and Formation:

Black diamonds are usually formed under extreme heat and pressure conditions, just like traditional diamonds. However, their colour and opaque nature are primarily due to the unique arrangement of carbon atoms, combined with inclusions of other materials, like graphite or iron oxide.
The internal inclusions of black diamonds are often visible with the naked eye, unlike in white diamonds, where inclusions are often microscopic and can only be seen under magnification.
Types of Black Diamonds:

There are two main types of black diamonds: natural and treated.
Natural Black Diamonds: These are diamonds that are naturally dark and contain inclusions that give them their black appearance. Natural black diamonds are rare and more expensive.
Treated Black Diamonds: These diamonds are typically colourless diamonds that have undergone high-temperature treatments (such as irradiation and heat treatment) to turn them black. They are generally more affordable than natural black diamonds.
Clarity and Inclusions:

Black diamonds typically have visible inclusions within the stone, which are not considered flaws in the same way as they might be in traditional diamonds. In fact, the inclusions contribute to the stone’s distinctive appearance and darkness.
The clarity of a black diamond is often graded differently from traditional diamonds because the inclusions contribute to the overall appearance. Visible inclusions are generally not a negative factor.
Brilliance and Sparkle:

Black diamonds do not exhibit the same level of brilliance or fire as traditional diamonds because they are opaque. While traditional diamonds reflect and refract light to create sparkle, black diamonds absorb light due to their dense structure and inclusions.
They have a matte or satin-like appearance instead of the bright sparkle seen in white diamonds. However, they can still have a subtle shine depending on the cut and how they are polished.
Popularity and Uses:

Black diamonds have gained popularity in recent years due to their unique, bold appearance, making them a popular choice for alternative engagement rings, fine jewellery, and statement pieces.
Black diamond rings are especially popular for modern, edgy, or non-traditional designs, and are often used in engagement rings as an alternative to classic white diamonds. They are also frequently set in contrasting metal bands, such as rose gold, yellow gold, or platinum, to enhance their bold look.
Cultural Significance:

Historically, black diamonds have been associated with mystery and strength. In some cultures, they were thought to possess protective or healing powers.
Today, black diamonds are seen as symbols of strength, sophistication, and rebellion, making them appealing for those who want a diamond with a unique, contemporary twist.
Care and Maintenance:

While black diamonds are extremely hard (as are all diamonds) and resistant to scratching, they may still require careful handling, especially treated black diamonds, which can be more susceptible to damage from certain chemicals or excessive heat.
Regular cleaning and maintenance are recommended to ensure the stone retains its appearance.

Bearding

Bearding in a diamond refers to the small, hairline fractures or feather-like inclusions that appear along the edges of a diamond. These fractures are typically found at the girdle or edges of the stone and are caused by external stress or impact during the cutting or handling process. Bearding is often a result of the diamond being exposed to pressure during the cutting process, which can cause the facet edges to develop tiny cracks.

Key Points About Bearding in Diamonds
Location:

Bearding usually occurs along the girdle (the widest part of the diamond) where the facets meet. It is more visible under magnification and can often be seen as feather-like fractures or small, wispy lines.
Cause:

Bearding is caused by stress or pressure exerted on the diamond during the cutting process. The girdle area is particularly vulnerable because it is where the facets come together, and it can be fragile. Additionally, diamonds can be damaged during handling or setting, leading to bearding along the edges.
Appearance:

The bearding appears as tiny, hairline fractures, often resembling small cracks or feathers. They are generally not visible to the naked eye and are usually detected only under magnification (such as with a loupe or microscope).
Impact on Diamond Quality:

Bearding does not usually affect the overall structural integrity of the diamond. It is often considered a minor imperfection and is unlikely to affect the diamond’s overall durability or brilliance.
However, bearding can slightly impact clarity grading because it is an inclusion that may be visible under magnification. It can sometimes lower the diamond’s clarity grade depending on the size, location, and visibility of the bearding.
Clarity Grade Consideration:

Bearding is typically not a significant issue when it comes to diamonds of higher clarity grades (such as VS1 or VS2). However, for diamonds with lower clarity grades (such as SI1 or below), bearding may be more noticeable under magnification, potentially influencing the clarity grade.
Diamond Durability:

Bearding does not compromise the diamond’s overall strength. Since the fractures are located on the outer edges of the diamond, they do not affect the central portion or the diamond’s ability to withstand normal wear and tear.
Treatment of Bearding:

Bearding cannot be removed once it has formed, but the diamond can sometimes be recut to minimize or eliminate the appearance of bearding, depending on the severity and location of the inclusions. However, recutting may result in the loss of some carat weight.
Bearding vs. Other Inclusions:

Unlike inclusions like clouds, pinpoints, or crystals, bearding is generally less significant in terms of affecting the diamond’s value. It tends to be an aesthetic flaw more than a structural one.
How to Minimize Bearding
Precise Cutting: Proper and careful cutting of the diamond can help prevent or reduce the risk of bearding. Skilled diamond cutters will avoid applying excessive pressure on the diamond during the cutting process to reduce stress at the girdle.
Handling with Care: Proper handling during all stages of cutting, polishing, and setting can minimize the occurrence of bearding. Care should be taken to avoid any impacts on the edges of the diamond.

Baguette Cut

The Baguette Cut is a distinct rectangular diamond shape, typically with step-cut faceting, although it can also be found in square form. It is most often used as accent stones in jewellery but can also be used as the centerpiece in certain designs, particularly in vintage or Art Deco styles.

Characteristics of Baguette Cut Diamond
Shape:

The Baguette cut is known for its rectangular shape with straight edges. It can also be found in a square version, known as a “square Baguette”.
The shape is typically very symmetrical, with cut corners or sharp edges, giving it a clean, elegant appearance.
Faceting Style:

The Baguette cut features step-cut faceting, meaning the facets are straight and parallel to each other, descending from the table to the culet. This cut is different from the brilliant cut, which has more facets and is designed for maximum sparkle.
The step-cut faceting of the Baguette cut gives the diamond a subtle sparkle, as the light reflects off the facets in a hall-of-mirrors effect. However, it doesn’t exhibit the intense brilliance seen in diamonds with brilliant cuts.
Size and Proportions:

Baguette diamonds are typically long and rectangular in shape, although the square Baguette is also a popular option.
The proportions of the Baguette are important; a well-proportioned Baguette cut diamond will appear symmetrical and aesthetically pleasing.
Brilliance and Sparkle:

Baguette diamonds have less sparkle than other diamond shapes like round brilliant or princess cuts due to the step-cut design. The absence of many facets results in a more subdued sparkle, making Baguette diamonds a good choice for those who prefer elegance over extreme brilliance.
The clarity of a Baguette cut diamond is more noticeable due to its larger, flat facets. Any inclusions or flaws are more visible than in diamonds with more facets, making clarity an important consideration when selecting a Baguette cut diamond.
Colour:

Since Baguette diamonds have fewer facets, the colour of the diamond can be more noticeable. As such, it’s generally advisable to choose a higher colour grade, such as H or better, to avoid visible yellowish tones.
Clarity:

The clarity of a Baguette diamond is especially important because the large, flat facets can reveal imperfections. Flawless to VS1 clarity diamonds are generally preferred for this cut.
Uses of the Baguette Cut Diamond
Accent Stones:

Baguette diamonds are often used as side stones or accents in jewellery, particularly in engagement rings and wedding bands. Their elegant, linear shape complements other diamonds, especially round brilliant or princess cuts, by adding a touch of sophistication and vintage flair.
In a three-stone ring, Baguette diamonds are sometimes used on either side of a larger central diamond.
Vintage and Art Deco Styles:

The Baguette cut is a popular choice in vintage, retro, and Art Deco-style jewellery due to its clean lines and symmetry. The cut’s sophisticated simplicity complements the bold geometric patterns of these design eras.
Standalone Centrepiece:

While not as common as other diamond shapes for a central diamond, Baguette diamonds can be used as a unique, elegant centerpiece for engagement rings or pendants. They are often set in a way that emphasizes their clean, linear beauty.
Advantages of the Baguette Cut
Elegant Simplicity:

The Baguette cut has a simple and clean aesthetic, which makes it ideal for those who appreciate understated elegance. It has a timeless, classic appeal that never goes out of style.
Perfect for Side Stones:

Baguette diamonds are widely used as accent stones because they can be paired easily with other shapes, such as round or princess cuts, to create a striking contrast. Their long, narrow form provides a beautiful frame to a larger diamond.
Cost-Effective:

Baguette diamonds tend to be more affordable than other cuts of the same carat weight because the faceting process requires less precision, and the diamonds typically have less sparkle. As a result, they can offer good value compared to other shapes like round brilliant or princess cuts.
Unique Appeal:

The Baguette cut’s classic and vintage feel makes it a great choice for those who want something a bit different from the typical modern diamond cuts. It offers a chic, sophisticated look for people who enjoy minimalist designs.
Considerations When Buying a Baguette Cut Diamond
Clarity:

Since Baguette diamonds have larger, flat facets, inclusions are more visible than in other cuts with smaller facets. It’s important to choose a diamond with a high clarity grade, such as VS1 or higher, to avoid visible flaws.
Proportions and Symmetry:

As with any diamond, the proportions and symmetry of a Baguette cut diamond are important for achieving the desired aesthetic. The diamond should have a well-balanced shape with symmetrical facets to ensure it reflects light evenly.
Light Reflection:

While the Baguette cut has a more subdued sparkle compared to other cuts, it still has a unique reflective quality due to its step-cut faceting. When buying a Baguette diamond, it’s essential to look for one that reflects light well, with clean, well-defined facets.
Size and Carat Weight:

Baguette diamonds are typically smaller than other shapes like round or princess cuts, so buyers may choose to purchase multiple Baguette diamonds to create a more significant visual impact in a ring or setting.
Baguette Cut vs. Other Diamond Cuts
Round Brilliant Cut: The round brilliant cut is the most popular diamond shape due to its maximum sparkle and brilliance. The Baguette cut, on the other hand, offers a more subdued, sophisticated appearance with a focus on clarity and elegance.
Emerald Cut: The emerald cut also uses step-cut faceting, like the Baguette cut, but it is typically larger and has more defined corners. Emerald cut diamonds also feature a larger surface area, making the inclusions more visible, much like the Baguette.
Princess Cut: The princess cut is another square-shaped diamond, but unlike the Baguette, it is a brilliant-cut diamond, giving it more sparkle. Baguette diamonds are rectangular and are more subtle in their brilliance.

Appraisal

Written estimate of the approximate retail replacement value of a diamond or piece of diamond jewellery

Diamond or Jewellery Appraisal or Valuation is a professional evaluation of a diamond or piece of jewellery to determine its market value, quality, and authenticity. Appraisals are commonly used for a variety of purposes, such as insurance coverage, estate planning, selling, or simply understanding the true worth of a piece.

Here’s a detailed overview of what diamond and jewellery appraisal or valuation involves:

1. What is a Diamond Appraisal?
A diamond appraisal is an expert assessment of a diamond’s value based on specific criteria like quality, size, and rarity. The appraisal typically provides a written report or certificate that outlines the key characteristics of the diamond, which will help in determining its worth in the market.

2. Purpose of Diamond or Jewellery Appraisal
Insurance Purposes: Appraisals are commonly needed to ensure that valuable jewellery is properly insured for loss, theft, or damage. The value provided by the appraiser is used to set an appropriate insurance policy.
Selling or Resale: If you are selling a diamond or piece of jewellery, an appraisal helps to determine its market value, which is important for negotiating a fair price.
Estate Planning: When dividing an estate, appraisals help establish the value of diamonds and jewellery to ensure assets are fairly distributed.
Divorce Settlements: Appraisals can assist in determining the value of jewellery in the context of a divorce, ensuring a fair distribution of assets.
Taxation Purposes: Appraisals may be required when valuing jewellery for estate taxes, donations, or capital gains tax.
3. Key Factors in Diamond Valuation
The value of a diamond is typically assessed based on the 4 C’s:

Carat Weight:

The weight of the diamond is a major factor. Larger diamonds are generally more valuable due to their rarity.
Cut:

The cut refers to how well the diamond has been shaped and faceted. It affects how light is reflected and determines the diamond’s brilliance and sparkle.
The cut grade (Excellent, Very Good, Good, etc.) plays a critical role in determining value.
Colour:

The colour of a diamond is graded on a scale from D (colourless) to Z (light yellow or brown). Diamonds that are colourless or near colourless are typically more valuable.
Clarity:

Clarity refers to the presence of internal or external flaws (called inclusions and blemishes). The fewer imperfections, the higher the clarity, and generally, the higher the value.
Certification:

Diamonds that come with a certification from a reputable grading lab like GIA, DCLA, or AGS are generally more valuable because they offer an independent verification of the diamond’s quality.
4. Jewellery Valuation
While diamonds are the focal point of many jewellery valuations, jewellery itself is also valued based on factors such as:

Metal Type and Weight: The karat and type of metal (gold, platinum, silver, etc.) contribute to the value. The weight of the metal, often measured in grams, plays an important role, especially for gold and platinum.
Gemstones: The inclusion of other gemstones (rubies, sapphires, emeralds, etc.) can increase the value of the jewellery. The quality, cut, and size of these stones are important factors in their appraisal.
Craftsmanship: The level of craftsmanship in the jewellery, such as whether it is mass-produced or custom-made, can affect its value. Handcrafted pieces or designer jewellery often carry a premium.
Antique or Vintage Value: Jewellery that is considered vintage or antique may have historical or collector’s value, which can increase its worth.
Brand: Certain designer or branded jewellery (e.g., Cartier, Tiffany, Van Cleef & Arpels) can significantly increase the value.
5. The Appraisal Process
Here is an outline of the general process involved in diamond and jewellery appraisal:

Initial Inspection:

The appraiser will inspect the diamond or jewellery, examining its physical characteristics, such as shape, size, and setting.
For diamonds, the 4 C’s will be assessed, and any certificates or grading reports provided by labs like DCLA, GIA, or AGS will be reviewed.
Gemological Testing:

A gemologist may use specific tools, such as a loupe or microscope, to evaluate internal inclusions or flaws in the diamond or gemstones. They may also test the metal composition of the jewellery.
Research and Market Comparison:

The appraiser will compare the jewellery or diamond to similar items currently on the market to determine its fair market value.
For diamonds, the appraiser will use databases or retail price guides to ensure accurate pricing.
Written Report:

The appraiser will provide a detailed written report that outlines the diamond’s characteristics, including the 4 C’s, or the jewellery’s key factors (e.g., weight, metal, gemstones, and condition).
The report will typically include a valuation or estimated market value, and in some cases, the report may also include a photograph of the jewellery or diamond for identification purposes.
6. Certification and Standards
A certified appraiser will perform the valuation. In many cases, the appraiser will hold certifications from professional organizations like the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) or the National Association of Jewelry Appraisers (NAJA).
For diamonds, having a certified grading report from recognized laboratories like GIA, DCLA, or AGSL can add credibility to the appraisal.
7. Cost of Diamond or Jewellery Appraisal
Appraisal Fees: The cost of an appraisal depends on various factors, such as the complexity of the piece, the appraiser’s qualifications, and the region. It is usually charged either by the hour or as a flat fee for each item.
For example, appraisers may charge £50-£150 per hour or a flat rate of £50-£200 per piece, depending on its value and complexity.
Some jewellery stores or pawnshops offer free appraisals, but it is important to ensure they are reputable and unbiased.
8. Diamond Appraisal vs. Diamond Grading
Grading involves evaluating the quality of the diamond based on the 4 C’s, typically performed by an independent lab like DCLA or GIA. This is a scientific, objective assessment.
Appraisal, on the other hand, involves determining the market value of the diamond or jewellery, which may include the cost of the stone itself, craftsmanship, rarity, and market conditions.

Asscher Cut

The Asscher Cut is a distinctive and elegant diamond shape, known for its square shape and step-cut faceting. It is similar to the emerald cut, but it features larger step facets and a more defined, square outline. The Asscher cut was first developed in 1902 by the Asscher brothers, a renowned family of diamond cutters in Amsterdam, and has become a popular choice for those seeking a vintage or Art Deco-style diamond.

Characteristics of Asscher Cut Diamond
Shape:

The Asscher cut is a square shape with cut corners, forming an octagonal appearance. The corners are typically beveled, creating an elegant, almost “octagon-shaped” look. This shape gives the diamond a vintage and timeless appeal.
Faceting Style:

The step-cut faceting involves parallel facets that descend in a series of steps. This style creates a hall of mirrors effect, where light reflects off the facets in a dramatic, shimmering manner. The larger facets allow you to see the diamond’s clarity more easily, which makes clarity a very important factor when selecting an Asscher cut diamond.
Brilliance:

Unlike brilliant cuts, which are designed to maximize sparkle through more facets, the Asscher cut is known for its depth and clarity rather than its brilliance. The step-cut nature gives the diamond a more subdued, sophisticated sparkle compared to other cuts like round brilliant or princess cut diamonds.
Size and Proportions:

Asscher cut diamonds are typically offered in square shapes, with proportions that are generally very specific to achieve the signature look. The diamond should have a length-to-width ratio of around 1.00 to 1.05, meaning the diamond is almost perfectly square.
Clarity and Colour:

The Asscher cut emphasizes the clarity of a diamond. Due to the large facets and open table, any inclusions or blemishes are more visible than they would be in a more brilliant cut. Therefore, it’s important to select an Asscher cut diamond with higher clarity, often at least VS1 or higher, to ensure a clean, clear appearance.
Regarding colour, the cut also tends to reveal the colour more clearly, especially in diamonds with lower colour grades. As such, higher colour diamonds (like those rated G or higher) are recommended for the Asscher cut to maintain the stone’s beauty.
Depth and Table Size:

A well-cut Asscher diamond has a deep, octagonal shape with a wide table. A shallow cut may lead to an undesirable look with less brilliance, while a deep cut may appear smaller for its carat weight.
Benefits of the Asscher Cut
Vintage Appeal: The Asscher cut is a favourite among those seeking a vintage or retro aesthetic. It was particularly popular during the Art Deco period and remains a popular choice for engagement rings and high-end jewellery.
Timeless Elegance: Its symmetrical and geometric design offers a sense of timeless beauty and elegance. The Asscher cut has an enduring appeal that stands out from modern cuts like the round brilliant or princess cut.
Emphasis on Clarity: The clean lines and large facets of the Asscher cut make it an excellent choice for diamonds with good clarity, as the cut enhances the diamond’s internal characteristics.
Less Sparkle, More Sophistication: The Asscher cut tends to have a more subdued sparkle, which some buyers find appealing for its refined, understated look. It’s perfect for those who prefer classic elegance over extreme brilliance.
Considerations When Buying an Asscher Cut Diamond
Clarity: Given the diamond’s faceting style, inclusions are more visible in an Asscher cut, so it’s important to choose a diamond with a high level of clarity (preferably VS1 or better).
Cut Quality: The quality of the cut is very important in an Asscher cut diamond. A poorly cut Asscher diamond can appear cloudy or dark due to poor light reflection. Ensure the diamond has well-proportioned facets.
Price: The Asscher cut is often priced similarly to the emerald cut and can be slightly less expensive than round brilliant cuts, depending on its size and quality. However, due to its vintage and unique appeal, it can also command a premium price in certain cases, especially for larger stones.
Asscher Cut vs. Other Square Cuts
Princess Cut: The princess cut is also a square-shaped diamond but features more facets, leading to greater brilliance and sparkle compared to the Asscher cut. The Asscher cut, however, has a more classic, vintage style and is often chosen for its geometrical elegance.
Radiant Cut: The radiant cut is another square diamond, but it features both step-cut and brilliant-cut facets, which give it more brilliance than the Asscher cut, which focuses on clarity and symmetry over sparkle.

Annealing

artificially enhance the colour of a diamond

Annealing diamond refers to a process in which diamonds are heated to high temperatures in a controlled environment to alter their internal structure or appearance. However, diamond annealing is quite different from annealing in other materials, like metals, because diamonds are already a highly stable, hard material. The process is typically used to modify certain properties of the diamond, such as colour or internal inclusions, rather than improving the material’s hardness or strength.

Here are the key aspects of diamond annealing:

1. Annealing to Alter Colour:
Annealing can be used to change or enhance the colour of a diamond. This is often done to lighten or darken the stone’s hue, or to bring out more desirable tones, like in fancy colour diamonds.

Heating Process: The diamond is subjected to high temperatures (sometimes exceeding 1000°C) in a controlled environment, typically in a vacuum or in an atmosphere of certain gases, such as nitrogen or hydrogen.
Effect on Colour: The heat causes changes in the diamond’s crystal structure, which can alter how light interacts with the stone, thus changing its colour. For instance, diamonds with brownish hues may turn to a lighter yellow or even white, while others might enhance their natural colour intensity.
2. Healing Inclusions (Internal Cracks or Imperfections):
Another purpose of annealing is to reduce the visibility of certain inclusions, particularly graining or small cracks. In this case, annealing can:

Relieve Stress: The heat from annealing can relieve internal stress in the diamond, causing cracks or inclusions to become less visible. This is especially useful for diamonds that have inclusions located near the surface, which can affect the diamond’s clarity.
Mend Cracks: Under controlled conditions, the annealing process can sometimes cause minor surface fractures to heal by encouraging the material around the crack to bond back together.
3. Limitations and Risks:
High Temperature: Because diamonds are made of carbon in a crystal lattice structure, they can be sensitive to extreme heat. The temperature and environment must be carefully controlled during the annealing process to prevent damaging the stone. If not done properly, excessive heat can cause the diamond to fracture or even shatter.
Not Suitable for All Diamonds: Annealing is not always suitable for all diamonds. For instance, diamonds with a high degree of internal stress or fractures may not respond well to heat treatment, as the process could cause further damage.
4. Impact on Diamond Value:
Colour Alteration: If annealing is used to improve the colour of a diamond, it can enhance the stone’s appearance and potentially increase its value, especially for diamonds with rare or sought-after colours.
Clarity Improvement: If annealing successfully reduces the visibility of inclusions, it can improve the diamond’s clarity, which could also make the diamond more valuable. However, some buyers may be cautious about diamonds that have undergone treatment, as they may prefer natural diamonds without any enhancements.
Disclosure: When diamonds are annealed or treated in any way, it’s important for sellers to disclose the treatment. Some buyers prefer untreated, natural diamonds, and the presence of treatment may affect the resale value or marketability.
5. Annealing in Industry:
While annealing is a term more commonly associated with metals or other materials, it is sometimes used in the diamond industry for specific treatments to improve the visual appeal or structural integrity of the diamond. The process is not typically used to improve hardness—since diamonds are already the hardest known material—but rather to address aesthetic and internal concerns.

Summary:
Annealing diamond involves heating the diamond to high temperatures in a controlled environment to alter its colour or reduce the visibility of internal inclusions.
It is often used to enhance the colour or improve the clarity of diamonds.
The process requires careful control to avoid damaging the diamond.
Annealed diamonds should be disclosed as treated, as they may affect the value, depending on the buyer’s preferences.

Adamas

Archaic Greek word from which the word ‘diamond’ is derived

The archaic Greek word from which the word “diamond” is derived is “adamas” (ἀδάμας). It means “invincible,” “unconquerable,” or “untameable”. The term was used to describe materials that were thought to be indestructible or incredibly hard. Over time, this term was associated specifically with diamonds due to their hardness and durability.

The word “diamond” itself comes from the Greek word “adamas,” reflecting the stone’s remarkable strength, as diamonds are the hardest known natural material on Earth. The name emphasizes their unyielding nature and resilience.