Cushion Cut

The cushion cut diamond is a popular diamond shape known for its rounded edges and square or rectangular outline, giving it a distinctive pillow-like appearance. This cut is a blend of the classic round shape and the square shape, offering a balance of both styles. It has been a beloved cut for centuries and has seen a resurgence in recent years, particularly in engagement rings.

Key Features of the Cushion Cut Diamond:
Shape:

The cushion cut diamond is typically square or rectangular, with rounded corners that resemble a pillow (hence the name). It can come in various ratios, where the length-to-width ratio determines whether the diamond appears more square or more rectangular.
The rounded corners give the cushion cut its soft and vintage look, making it a timeless and romantic choice.
Facets:

The cushion cut has a unique facet structure compared to other cuts. It often has 58 facets (the same as the traditional round brilliant cut), though some variations, such as the modified cushion cut, may have additional facets to enhance brilliance.
The facets on a cushion cut diamond create a larger, more noticeable sparkle, with the light bouncing around the stone in a way that gives it a vintage yet brilliant shine.
Types of Cushion Cut:

Standard Cushion Cut: The traditional cushion cut, with rounded corners and soft edges.
Modified Cushion Cut: A variation that uses additional facets to enhance brilliance. It can be cut with a modern look, featuring sharper corners and a more contemporary style.
Cushion Brilliant Cut: A cushion cut with a modern, brilliant-style facet arrangement, designed for maximum sparkle.
Appearance:

Cushion cut diamonds are known for their soft, romantic glow and are often preferred for their vintage and classic look. This cut is ideal for those who like the glitter of the round brilliant but want something that feels more unique and timeless.
Depending on the specific facet arrangement and cutting style, the cushion cut can have a brilliant appearance, creating a large amount of sparkle and fire, or a antique-style appearance with a more subdued, charming glow.
Popularity:

The cushion cut is especially popular in engagement rings, particularly for those who want a vintage or antique-inspired design. It has also been a favorite among celebrities and is seen in many high-profile engagements.
The cut’s resurgence in popularity is partly due to its combination of classic beauty and modern brilliance.
Durability:

The cushion cut diamond is generally quite durable because of its rounded corners. These corners are less prone to chipping compared to the sharp edges of other cuts, such as the emerald or asscher cuts.
The diamond’s pavilion depth (how deep it is from the table to the culet) can affect its overall durability and brilliance, so a well-proportioned cushion cut will ensure the diamond lasts over time.
Choosing the Right Cushion Cut:

Length-to-Width Ratio: The length-to-width ratio is a key consideration when selecting a cushion cut diamond. A ratio of 1.00 will result in a perfectly square cushion, while ratios above or below 1.00 will create a rectangular cushion shape. The ratio will influence the diamond’s overall appearance and is a matter of personal preference.
Cut Quality: The quality of the cut will have a significant effect on the diamond’s brilliance. Cushion cuts can be brilliant (emphasizing sparkle) or antique-style (more muted and charming). Look for diamonds with excellent or very good cut grades to ensure optimal light reflection and sparkle.
Clarity and Color: While cushion cut diamonds can hide inclusions and color better than other cuts due to their larger facets and the faceted structure, it is still important to check for clarity and color before purchasing.
Ideal Settings for Cushion Cut Diamonds:

Halo Setting: A cushion cut diamond in a halo setting (surrounded by smaller diamonds) is particularly popular, as it amplifies the appearance of the main diamond and adds extra sparkle.
Vintage and Classic Settings: The cushion cut diamond fits perfectly into vintage-style or antique-inspired rings, often with intricate detailing or milgrain edges around the band.
Solitaire Settings: Many people opt for a solitaire setting (a single diamond on the band) for a cushion cut diamond, allowing the diamond to be the main focus.
Brilliance and Sparkle:

The cushion cut is known for its good sparkle due to the faceting structure, but it may not exhibit the same level of fire (colored light reflections) as round brilliant cuts.
The brilliance of the cushion cut comes from the way light interacts with the larger facets. A well-cut cushion can shine brightly and produce beautiful flashes of light.
Cushion Cut vs. Other Cuts:

Round Brilliant vs. Cushion Cut: While round brilliant diamonds are typically the most brilliant (sparkling) due to their specific facet pattern, cushion cuts can offer similar sparkle with a softer, more vintage look.
Princess Cut vs. Cushion Cut: Princess cuts are square-shaped with sharp edges, providing a modern and angular look, while cushion cuts offer a softer, more rounded feel. The choice depends on personal style preferences.

Cut

Diamond Cut or Proportion refers to the quality of a diamond’s shape and symmetry, which directly influences its brilliance, fire, and overall aesthetic appeal

Diamond Cut or Proportion refers to the quality of a diamond’s shape and symmetry, which directly influences its brilliance, fire, and overall aesthetic appeal. It’s one of the most important aspects of diamond grading and is separate from the diamond’s shape (e.g., round, princess, cushion). The cut is all about how well the diamond has been crafted and faceted from the rough stone, and how this craftsmanship maximizes its ability to reflect light.

Key Aspects of Diamond Cut/Proportion:
What is Diamond Cut?

Diamond Cut refers to how well a diamond has been shaped and faceted to reflect light, which impacts the diamond’s sparkle.
It involves the proportions (depth, width, angles) of the diamond and how they affect the way light enters, bounces around, and exits the diamond.
Cut does not refer to the diamond’s shape (such as round or square), but rather to the quality of the cutting process, including the diamond’s facets, symmetry, and polish.
The Importance of Cut:

A well-cut diamond reflects light more effectively, creating maximum sparkle and brilliance. A poorly cut diamond, even if it is of high-quality material, may appear dull or lifeless.
A well-cut diamond allows for optimal light performance. Light enters the diamond, reflects off the facets, and exits the top, creating a brilliant sparkle.
The 4 Cs and Cut:

The 4 Cs of diamond grading—Cut, Clarity, Colour, and Carat weight—are all important, but cut is often considered the most significant factor for a diamond’s visual appeal.
A diamond can be flawless in clarity and color, but if the cut is poor, it will not shine as brilliantly as a well-cut diamond.
Grading the Cut:

Ideal Cut: Diamonds with an “Ideal” cut are the best of the best, exhibiting maximum brilliance, fire, and sparkle.
Excellent Cut: Excellent cut diamonds also reflect light well and are often used interchangeably with “Ideal” cut in many grading reports.
Very Good Cut: A very good cut diamond still has excellent light performance, but there may be minor compromises in proportions compared to Ideal or Excellent.
Good Cut: Good cut diamonds still show decent sparkle, but they may not have as much brilliance as those graded Excellent or Ideal.
Fair and Poor Cuts: These diamonds lack the brilliance and sparkle that higher-quality cuts offer. Light is lost through the sides or bottom, resulting in a less brilliant appearance.
Key Elements of Cut/Proportion:

Table: The flat top surface of the diamond. The table size affects how much light is reflected inside the diamond.

Ideal Table Size: The table should typically be between 53-58% of the diamond’s diameter. A table that’s too large can cause light to leak out the bottom, and a table that’s too small may cause the diamond to appear dark or dull.
Depth: The height of the diamond from the culet to the table.

Ideal Depth: A diamond’s depth percentage (height divided by diameter) should fall between 59-62.5%. If the depth is too shallow, light will escape from the bottom, making the diamond less brilliant. If it’s too deep, light will exit from the sides, resulting in a dimmer appearance.
Crown Angle: The angle at which the upper portion (crown) of the diamond is cut. This influences how light enters and reflects within the diamond.

Ideal Crown Angle: For round brilliant diamonds, an ideal crown angle is generally between 34-35 degrees.
Pavilion Angle: The angle of the diamond’s lower portion, from the girdle to the culet. This also affects how light enters the diamond and contributes to its overall brilliance.

Ideal Pavilion Angle: Around 40.6-41.2 degrees for a round brilliant diamond.
Girdle: The outer edge of the diamond, where the top (crown) and bottom (pavilion) meet.

Ideal Girdle: The girdle should be neither too thick nor too thin, as extremes can affect the durability and light performance of the diamond.
Symmetry and Polish:

Symmetry refers to the precision of the diamond’s facets and how well they align. Good symmetry ensures that light is evenly reflected, contributing to the diamond’s brilliance.
Polish refers to the smoothness of the diamond’s surfaces. The better the polish, the more light the diamond can reflect.
Cut and Diamond Shapes:

The cut will vary slightly depending on the diamond shape. For example:
Round Brilliant Cut: Known for its excellent light reflection and maximum brilliance due to its specific proportions and symmetry.
Princess Cut: Features a square shape with sharp edges and also requires precise cutting for optimal brilliance.
Emerald Cut: Has a rectangular shape with a large table and fewer facets, focusing on clarity rather than brilliance.
Cushion Cut: Features rounded corners and is often designed with a more antique-style cut, which can affect its overall sparkle and brilliance.
Diamonds and Their Light Performance:

A diamond’s ability to perform with light is often referred to as its fire (the dispersion of light into rainbow colors), brilliance (the white light reflected from the diamond), and scintillation (the flashes of light as the diamond moves).
The cut of the diamond directly influences these factors. The angles, proportions, and symmetry all contribute to how effectively the diamond performs with light.
Evaluating Diamond Cut:

Ideal and Excellent cuts provide the best overall appearance and maximum brilliance.
A diamond with a good cut still offers decent brilliance but may be a bit less fiery or sparkly than an Ideal or Excellent cut diamond.
It’s crucial to evaluate a diamond’s cut based on specific cut grading criteria from a reputable grading laboratory like GIA, which assigns cut grades to diamonds based on measurements and performance.
Summary:
The diamond cut (or proportion) determines how a diamond interacts with light, influencing its brilliance, fire, and overall sparkle.
Key elements that affect cut include table size, depth, crown angle, pavilion angle, girdle thickness, and the overall symmetry and polish.
The cut has the most significant impact on a diamond’s appearance compared to other characteristics like clarity or colour, and diamonds with excellent cuts will appear the most vibrant and brilliant.
Grading: Diamonds are graded for cut as Ideal, Excellent, Very Good, Good, Fair, or Poor, based on their proportions, symmetry, and light performance.

Cut Grade

Key Elements of Diamond Cut Grade

Diamond Cut Grade is a key factor in determining a diamond’s overall beauty and value. It assesses how well a diamond has been shaped and faceted to maximize its ability to reflect light, creating brilliance and sparkle. A diamond’s cut grade is different from its shape (such as round, square, or oval) because it refers specifically to the quality of the craftsmanship involved in shaping and faceting the stone.

The Key Elements of Diamond Cut Grade:
Proportions:

The proportions of the diamond include the ratio of the table size (top flat surface), depth (the height of the diamond), and the girdle (the outer edge). These proportions must be balanced to ensure that light can enter, reflect, and exit the diamond optimally.
Symmetry:

Symmetry refers to how well the facets are aligned and arranged. Proper symmetry allows light to reflect evenly across the surface of the diamond, contributing to its brilliance.
Finish:

Finish refers to the quality of the polishing process. The finer the polish, the more light the diamond can reflect, enhancing its sparkle.
Diamond Cut Grades:
The cut grade can range from Excellent to Poor based on how well the diamond’s proportions, symmetry, and finish meet the ideal criteria. The scale used by most grading labs, including DCLA, is as follows:

Excellent Cut:

Diamonds with an Excellent Cut are considered the best. These diamonds reflect light in the most brilliant and dazzling way.
They have precise proportions, ideal symmetry, and a flawless polish, maximizing the sparkle and brilliance.
Ideal for: Those seeking the best possible appearance in terms of light performance.
Very Good Cut:

A Very Good Cut diamond reflects almost as much light as an Excellent Cut diamond, with only slight imperfections in the proportions or symmetry.
These diamonds still exhibit excellent brilliance, but may lack the extreme precision of an Excellent Cut.
Ideal for: Those who want a high-quality diamond at a slightly more affordable price point.
Good Cut:

A Good Cut diamond has visible differences in proportions, which can affect the diamond’s light reflection, but it still looks attractive with decent sparkle.
These diamonds may not exhibit the same level of brilliance as the top grades, but they offer good value.
Ideal for: Budget-conscious buyers who still want a well-cut diamond.
Fair Cut:

A Fair Cut diamond has more noticeable issues with proportions and symmetry that can reduce its ability to reflect light.
While still a diamond, it may appear less brilliant and duller than diamonds with higher cut grades.
Ideal for: Those seeking a lower-priced diamond, though it may not be the best in terms of light performance.
Poor Cut:

A Poor Cut diamond exhibits significant issues with proportions, symmetry, or polish, leading to poor light reflection and diminished brilliance.
The sparkle and fire are significantly reduced compared to higher-grade diamonds.
Ideal for: Typically, diamonds graded as Poor Cut are not recommended for purchasing, as they do not offer good visual appeal.
Factors That Influence Diamond Cut Grade:
Table Size: The table is the flat top facet of the diamond. If it’s too large or too small, it can affect the diamond’s brilliance.

Ideal Table Size: Typically between 53%-58% of the total diameter of the diamond.
Depth: The depth is the height of the diamond from the table to the culet. The depth percentage is the ratio of the diamond’s depth to its diameter.

Ideal Depth: Between 59%-62.5%.
Crown Angle: The crown is the upper portion of the diamond above the girdle. The crown angle influences how light is reflected from the diamond.

Ideal Crown Angle: Typically between 34-35 degrees for round brilliant cuts.
Pavilion Angle: The pavilion is the lower part of the diamond beneath the girdle. The pavilion angle helps determine how well the diamond reflects light.

Ideal Pavilion Angle: Around 40.6-41.2 degrees for round brilliant diamonds.
Girdle Thickness: The girdle is the outer edge of the diamond, and it should neither be too thin nor too thick.

Ideal Girdle Thickness: Neither too thin nor too thick, which allows for proper durability and light reflection.
Symmetry: Symmetry refers to how well the diamond’s facets match and align. Good symmetry ensures consistent light reflection and enhances the overall sparkle of the diamond.

Polish: The finish or smoothness of the diamond’s facets affects how light travels and reflects. A smooth and well-polished diamond reflects more light and appears more brilliant.

The Role of Cut in Diamond Value:
Cut is the most important factor in a diamond’s appearance. While colour, clarity, and carat weight are important, a poorly cut diamond will not appear as brilliant as a well-cut diamond, regardless of its other attributes.
A diamond’s cut grade can significantly impact its price. Diamonds with Excellent or Ideal cuts are typically more expensive due to their superior light performance and visual appeal.
DCLA’s Diamond Cut Grading:
The Diamond Certification Laboratory of Australia (DCLA) follows the international cut grading standards and provides a detailed analysis of a diamond’s cut, including the table size, depth, crown and pavilion angles, symmetry, and finish.
DCLA uses advanced gemological tools to measure and grade diamonds with precision, ensuring that each diamond receives an accurate and reliable cut grade.

Cubic Zirconia

Cubic Zirconia

Cubic Zirconia (CZ) is a synthetic gemstone that is often used as a diamond simulant. It is made from zirconium dioxide (ZrO₂) and is commonly used in jewelry as an affordable alternative to diamonds due to its striking resemblance to them.

Key Points about Cubic Zirconia:
Composition:

Cubic zirconia is composed of zirconium dioxide and is typically created through a synthetic process. The crystal structure of cubic zirconia is cubic, which is where it gets its name from.
Cubic zirconia is artificially manufactured in laboratories, making it more affordable and accessible compared to diamonds, which are naturally occurring.
Appearance:

Cubic zirconia is colorless and has a similar brilliance and sparkle to diamonds, which is why it’s often used in jewelry as a diamond substitute.
It can also be created in a variety of colors, such as pink, blue, green, and others, by adding different metal oxides during the manufacturing process.
While CZ can appear similar to a diamond at first glance, it lacks the same level of fire (colored light dispersion) and is generally less durable than a diamond.
Durability:

One of the biggest differences between cubic zirconia and diamonds is their hardness. Cubic zirconia has a hardness of 8 to 8.5 on the Mohs scale, whereas diamonds are the hardest natural substance, scoring a 10.
Because of this, cubic zirconia is more prone to scratching and wearing down over time, especially when compared to diamonds, which maintain their shine and surface integrity much longer.
Weight:

Cubic zirconia is heavier than diamonds. This means that a cubic zirconia stone of the same size will weigh more than a diamond of the same size. This weight difference can sometimes be noticeable when comparing stones of similar size and shape.
Cost:

Cubic zirconia is significantly more affordable than diamonds. While the price of diamonds can be quite high due to their rarity and the complexities involved in their formation, cubic zirconia is a much cheaper option and is widely available.
CZ is commonly used in fashion jewelry, where the appearance of a diamond is desired, but the cost of an actual diamond is not necessary or desired.
Clarity:

Cubic zirconia is often created in a way that makes it free of inclusions or very clean in appearance. Unlike natural diamonds, which often contain inclusions (called blemishes or inclusions), cubic zirconia typically has perfect clarity.
While diamonds can have unique inclusions that add to their value and identity, CZ’s flawless appearance can sometimes be a disadvantage in terms of authenticity because it lacks the natural imperfections that make diamonds unique.
Uses:

Jewelry: Cubic zirconia is often used in rings, earrings, necklaces, and bracelets as a diamond substitute. It’s particularly popular in engagement rings, wedding bands, and costume jewelry.
Affordable Alternative: People who want the appearance of a diamond but don’t want to spend the high cost may choose cubic zirconia as an alternative.
Optical Properties:

Brilliance: Cubic zirconia is known for its high brilliance (sparkle), as it reflects light well, similar to diamonds. However, it has a higher dispersion than diamonds, which means it can exhibit more colorful flashes of light, often seen as a rainbow effect.
Fire: Although cubic zirconia has more fire than a diamond, it is generally considered less desirable in this regard compared to the subtle, refined fire diamonds produce.
Maintenance:

Since cubic zirconia is softer and more prone to scratching, it may require more care and maintenance than diamonds. Over time, CZ can lose its luster due to scratches and build-up of oils and grime.
Regular cleaning is recommended to maintain its appearance, and it’s advised to store cubic zirconia jewelry separately to prevent scratches.
Distinguishing from Diamonds:

Despite its close resemblance to diamonds, there are several ways to distinguish cubic zirconia from diamonds, such as by examining the weight, hardness, fire, and brilliance.
Gemological Testing: Professional gemologists use specific tools, like a diamond tester or refractive index measurement, to accurately identify cubic zirconia from diamonds.
Summary:
Cubic Zirconia (CZ): A synthetic gemstone made from zirconium dioxide, used as a diamond simulant due to its similar appearance but lower cost.
Hardness: CZ has a hardness of 8-8.5 on the Mohs scale, much lower than diamonds (10), making it more susceptible to scratches.
Appearance: CZ is colorless and exhibits a high level of brilliance, but it has more fire than diamonds, often appearing to have more colorful flashes of light.
Cost: CZ is much more affordable than diamonds, making it a popular choice for fashion jewelry and costume pieces.
Durability: Less durable than diamonds due to its lower hardness, CZ can wear down and scratch more easily.

Culet

The diamond culet is the flat surface at the very bottom of the diamond, specifically at the pavilion’s tip. It plays a role in the diamond’s overall appearance, cut quality, and how it interacts with light.

Key Points about the Diamond Culet:
Location:

The culet is located at the very bottom of the diamond, at the pavilion, which is the lower portion of the diamond beneath the girdle.
It forms part of the cut and is essentially the small facet at the apex of the pavilion, where the diamond tapers to a point (in traditional cuts like round brilliant).
Function:

Purpose: The culet serves to prevent the diamond from being damaged during the cutting process. If the point of the pavilion were left unpolished or sharp, it could easily chip or break. The culet helps avoid this by giving the diamond a flat surface at the tip.
Light Interaction: The culet doesn’t significantly affect the light return or brilliance of the diamond, but its size and presence can influence the appearance of the diamond from the bottom.
Culet Size:

None: Some diamonds are cut without a culet at all, especially if the diamond has a sharp, pointed pavilion (this is often seen in high-quality round brilliant cuts). These diamonds may be labeled as “no culet” or “culet: none” in grading reports.
Small: A small culet is typically 0.1% to 0.3% of the diameter of the diamond. This is most common in diamonds cut for optimal brilliance.
Medium, Large, or Very Large: Larger culets are rare but can be found in older or antique diamonds, as well as some cushion or asscher cuts. Larger culets can sometimes give the diamond an unusual look and may reduce the diamond’s overall brilliance and desirability.
Impact on Diamond’s Appearance:

A larger culet may be visible from the top of the diamond, especially in diamonds with a larger table or shallow cut. It can detract from the diamond’s brilliance by allowing light to escape more easily.
A small culet or no culet at all is generally preferred in modern diamond cuts, as it maintains the maximum light performance and enhances the sparkle.
Culet and Clarity:

A large culet can sometimes be considered an inclusion when graded for clarity, as it may affect the overall symmetry of the diamond. However, a small or no culet typically doesn’t affect the diamond’s clarity.
The size and presence of the culet are typically noted in a diamond’s grading report, but it is not a major factor in the diamond’s clarity grade unless it affects the overall symmetry or appears as a significant visible feature.
Culet and Cut Quality:

While the culet doesn’t directly influence the light performance or brilliance, the proportions and symmetry of the cut, including the culet, are important for achieving an optimal cut grade.
Symmetry: A well-formed, symmetrical culet contributes to the diamond’s overall cut quality, enhancing its visual appeal.
Summary:
The diamond culet is the small flat facet at the tip of the diamond’s pavilion, designed to prevent damage during the cutting process.
Culet Size: It can be absent (no culet), small, medium, or large, with smaller culets generally preferred for better light return and brilliance.
Impact on Appearance: A larger culet may be visible from the top and can reduce the diamond’s sparkle. A small culet or no culet is preferred in modern cuts.
Clarity and Symmetry: The size of the culet can affect the diamond’s clarity and symmetry, but typically does not impact overall clarity unless it’s large or noticeably visible.

Crown Height Percentage

The diamond crown height percentage refers to the ratio of the height of the crown (the top portion of the diamond) relative to the total depth of the diamond. This percentage is a key factor in evaluating the cut quality of a diamond and has a direct impact on how well the diamond reflects light, which in turn affects its brilliance and fire.

Ideal Crown Height Percentage:
For a round brilliant cut diamond, the ideal crown height typically falls between 12% and 16% of the total depth of the diamond.
12% to 16% is considered the sweet spot because this range ensures that the crown is appropriately proportioned to maximize light return and optimize brilliance.
How to Calculate Crown Height Percentage:
The crown height percentage is calculated by dividing the height of the crown by the total depth of the diamond, then multiplying the result by 100.

Crown Height Percentage=(Total DepthCrown Height)×100

Impact of Crown Height Percentage on Diamond Appearance:
Too Shallow: A crown height percentage that is too low (e.g., below 12%) can result in a diamond that looks flat and lacks brilliance. This is because light may escape through the sides of the diamond, reducing its sparkle.

Too Tall: A crown height percentage that is too high (e.g., above 16%) may make the diamond look overly deep or top-heavy, potentially reducing its overall brightness as light leaks out of the bottom, rather than returning through the table.

Ideal Proportion: Diamonds with a crown height percentage within the 12%-16% range tend to have the optimal balance of light reflection, maximizing both brilliance and fire. These diamonds typically appear vibrant and well-proportioned.

Crown Height and Other Proportions:
While crown height is crucial, it should not be considered in isolation. It works in conjunction with other cut proportions, such as:

Pavilion angle (the angle of the lower portion of the diamond)
Table size (the flat surface on top of the diamond)
Girdle thickness (the outermost edge of the diamond)
For the best light performance, all these proportions need to complement each other. A well-proportioned crown height enhances the overall cut quality and brilliance of the diamond, contributing to its desirability and value.

Summary:
Crown Height Percentage: The ratio of the crown height to the total depth of the diamond.
Ideal Range: The ideal crown height percentage for a round brilliant diamond is typically between 12% and 16%.
Impact on Brilliance: An ideal crown height percentage ensures maximum light return, producing a diamond with optimal sparkle and brilliance.

Crystal

An internal crystal in a diamond refers to a type of inclusion (a naturally occurring characteristic inside the diamond). These crystals can be small mineral particles or other forms of inclusions trapped within the diamond during its formation deep within the Earth. Internal crystals are often used by gemologists to identify a diamond and can have an impact on the diamond’s appearance, clarity, and value.

Key Points about Internal Crystals in Diamonds:
Types of Internal Crystals:

Mineral Crystals: These are the most common type of internal crystals found in diamonds. They are usually small mineral particles that were trapped inside the diamond during its formation. These mineral crystals could be made of other minerals like garnet, peridot, or even graphite.
Diamond Crystals: Occasionally, diamonds may contain tiny crystals of diamond itself within them. These are rare but can appear as inclusions that look like tiny diamonds or clusters of diamond particles within the main diamond.
Other Inclusions: Other forms of inclusions, such as feathers, clouds, or blotches, might also contain internal crystals, but these are less common.
Impact on Clarity:

Clarity Grade: Internal crystals are considered inclusions, and they affect a diamond’s clarity grade. The presence of these inclusions can lower the clarity rating of a diamond, especially if the crystal is large, visible to the naked eye, or affects the overall appearance of the stone.
Diamonds are graded on clarity from Flawless (FL) to Included (I) based on the visibility and size of these internal characteristics. The larger and more noticeable the crystal, the more it can impact the clarity grade.
Visible Internal Crystals:

Inclusions Visibility: Some internal crystals may be visible to the naked eye, especially if they are large or located near the surface of the diamond. In other cases, they may be microscopic and only visible under magnification.
Location: The location of the internal crystal inside the diamond also plays a role in its visibility. If it’s near the surface, it may cause the diamond to have blemishes on the surface (as the crystal could potentially cause a chip or fracture if it’s not cut properly).
Internal Crystals and Diamond Value:

Negative Impact on Value: Larger, visible internal crystals generally decrease a diamond’s value, as they affect the clarity grade and overall appearance. The more inclusions there are inside the diamond, the lower the diamond’s clarity and value.
Exceptions: Sometimes, small internal crystals that are not visible to the naked eye may have little to no effect on the diamond’s appearance or value. In some cases, they might even add uniqueness to the diamond, especially if they are particularly small or unique in appearance.
Internal Crystals and Diamond Identification:

Unique Fingerprints: Every diamond contains its own unique combination of inclusions, including internal crystals, which makes diamonds identifiable. Gemologists use these characteristics, known as the diamond’s “fingerprint,” to confirm the diamond’s authenticity and traceability.
Laser Inscriptions: Some diamonds may have laser inscriptions on the girdle (the outer edge of the diamond) that record a unique identification number, which can be cross-referenced with a diamond’s internal characteristics and certificate.
Crystal Inclusions in Fancy Color Diamonds:

In fancy color diamonds, the presence of internal crystals can sometimes enhance or influence the overall color appearance of the diamond. For example, certain internal inclusions might give the diamond a different hue or intensity of color, particularly in diamonds with natural color variations like pink, blue, or green.
Crystal Inclusions and Durability:

The impact of internal crystals on a diamond’s durability depends on their size and location. While diamonds are incredibly strong and durable, large internal crystals near the surface may create weaknesses or make the diamond more prone to breaking or chipping.
Smaller internal crystals that are positioned away from the surface tend to have little impact on the diamond’s durability.
Summary:
Internal Crystal: An inclusion made up of a small mineral or diamond particle trapped inside the diamond during its formation.
Effect on Clarity: Internal crystals can lower a diamond’s clarity grade, especially if they are large or visible to the naked eye.
Identification: Internal crystals can act as a unique “fingerprint” for identifying a diamond.
Impact on Value: Larger, visible internal crystals can decrease the value of a diamond, though small, microscopic crystals may not have much impact.
Durability: Internal crystals near the surface can weaken the diamond and increase the risk of chipping.

Crown

A diamond crown refers to a piece of jewelry, often a tiara or headpiece, that is adorned with diamonds and designed to be worn on the head. It is typically associated with royalty, formal occasions, or beauty pageants. Diamond crowns can vary greatly in style, size, and design, but they generally feature diamonds as the central embellishment, showcasing their sparkle and brilliance.

Types of Diamond Crowns:
Royal Crowns:

Historically, royal crowns have been a symbol of power, authority, and sovereignty. These crowns, worn by kings, queens, and emperors, were often studded with large, valuable diamonds and other precious gemstones.
Crown jewels of various nations often feature diamonds, with some crowns containing famous diamonds, such as the Koh-i-Noor or the Cullinan Diamond.
Tiara Crowns:

Tiaras are a type of diamond crown that are typically worn at weddings, state functions, or formal events. They are less imposing than royal crowns but still offer a striking, elegant look. Tiaras may feature a combination of diamonds and other gemstones, arranged in intricate designs.
Popular among beauty pageants and high-society events, tiaras are often seen worn by those of aristocratic or royal lineage.
Wedding Crowns:

Some brides opt for a diamond crown or tiara as part of their wedding ensemble, adding a touch of glamour and sparkle. Wedding crowns are often designed to complement the bridal gown and can be customized to suit the bride’s personal style.
These crowns are typically more delicate and feminine, with diamonds arranged in a more subtle manner compared to royal crowns.
Decorative or Fashion Crowns:

Fashion crowns or decorative crowns are designed for ceremonial or decorative purposes and may be worn at costume events or themed parties. These crowns can be more creative, featuring diamonds alongside other elements like pearls, colored gemstones, and intricate metalwork.
Famous Diamond Crowns:
The Imperial State Crown (UK): Worn by the monarch during the State Opening of Parliament, this crown is encrusted with diamonds, including the Cullinan II Diamond, one of the largest cut diamonds in the world.

The Russian Imperial Crown: This historic crown is known for its diamonds, emeralds, and other gemstones. It was part of the Russian Crown Jewels and was worn by the czars during coronation ceremonies.

**The Koh-i-Noor Diamond Crown: This crown features the Koh-i-Noor diamond, which has a long and controversial history, and was once part of the British crown jewels.

Diamond Crown Design Elements:
Shape and Style: Diamond crowns may have different shapes, such as round, oval, or arched designs. Some are designed with a single row of diamonds, while others may have multiple tiers or intricate patterns.

Diamonds in Settings: Diamonds in a crown can be set in various ways, including prong settings, bezel settings, or pave settings. The setting influences how much light the diamonds reflect, contributing to their overall sparkle.

Other Gemstones: While diamonds are the focal point of most crowns, other gemstones such as emeralds, rubies, sapphires, and pearls are often incorporated for additional color and visual interest.

Symbolism of Diamond Crowns:
Royalty and Power: Diamond crowns symbolize power, wealth, and prestige. Historically, crowns were worn by those who held political or royal authority, and their adornment with diamonds signified both their wealth and divine right to rule.

Elegance and Celebration: In modern times, diamond crowns (often tiaras) symbolize elegance and beauty, and they are often worn at significant life events like weddings, pageants, and milestone celebrations.

Endurance and Purity: Diamonds are also symbolic of eternity and purity, which is why they are often used in crowns for weddings, representing the longevity and enduring nature of love.

Caring for a Diamond Crown:
Because of their value and intricate design, diamond crowns require careful maintenance:

Regular Cleaning: Like any piece of diamond jewelry, a diamond crown should be cleaned regularly to maintain its sparkle. A gentle solution of water and mild dish soap with a soft brush can be used.
Storage: Crowns should be stored carefully in a soft cloth or padded box to prevent scratching. If the crown is worn frequently, regular checks by a jeweler to ensure that the diamonds are secure are recommended.

Crown Angle

The term “diamond crown angle” typically refers to the angle at which the crown of a diamond (the upper portion above the girdle) is cut. This is an important aspect of a diamond’s cut quality, as it influences the diamond’s brilliance and sparkle.

Key Points about the Diamond Crown Angle:
Crown:

The crown of a diamond is the top part of the diamond, extending from the girdle (the widest part of the diamond) to the table (the flat top surface).
The crown angle, or crown facet angle, is the angle formed between the plane of the table and the crown facets (the facets that make up the crown).
Crown Angle and Brilliance:

The crown angle plays a crucial role in how well a diamond reflects light. The angle affects how light enters and exits the diamond, impacting its brilliance (the white light reflected from the diamond) and fire (the dispersion of light into different colours).
A well-proportioned crown angle helps the diamond reflect light optimally, creating maximum brilliance and sparkle.
If the angle is too steep, the diamond can appear dark and lack brilliance, as light is directed away from the stone. Conversely, if the angle is too shallow, the diamond may lack depth and the light can escape through the bottom.
Ideal Crown Angle:

For a round brilliant diamond, the ideal crown angle typically ranges from 34° to 35°. Diamonds within this range tend to exhibit optimal brilliance and fire.
However, the crown angle must be considered in combination with other factors like the pavilion angle (the angle of the lower portion of the diamond) to achieve ideal proportions and light performance.
Ideal proportions typically result in a diamond that performs well in terms of both brilliance and fire, creating a visually pleasing sparkle.
Diamonds with Different Crown Angles:

Steep Crown Angle: A crown angle greater than 35° can lead to a steep crown, which might cause the diamond to appear darker or less sparkly due to light leakage.
Shallow Crown Angle: A crown angle lower than 34° can result in a shallow crown, which can make the diamond appear flat and may cause light to escape out of the sides of the stone, diminishing its brilliance.
Measuring the Crown Angle:

The crown angle can be measured using specialized tools and instruments in a gemological laboratory. It is often included in a diamond’s grading report (such as those provided by the GIA or DCLA), where the diamond’s cut quality is assessed.
Cut Proportions and Overall Performance:

The crown angle is part of the overall cut grade, which also considers other factors like table size, pavilion depth, and girdle thickness. These factors work together to determine the diamond’s overall brilliance and visual appeal.
A diamond with an excellent cut will have a crown angle that complements the pavilion angle, creating a balanced and well-proportioned stone that maximizes light performance.
How the Crown Angle Affects Diamond Quality:
A diamond’s cut quality is considered the most important factor in determining its overall appearance, often more important than its carat weight, colour, or clarity. A diamond with an optimal crown angle is more likely to have exceptional light performance, ensuring the diamond sparkles brilliantly.

In diamond grading reports, such as those from the DCLA (Diamond Certification Laboratory of Australia) or GIA (Gemological Institute of America), the crown angle is used to evaluate the diamond’s cut quality and assess how well it will reflect light.

Summary of Ideal Crown Angle:
Round Brilliant Cut: Ideal crown angle is typically between 34° and 35° for maximum brilliance.
The crown angle works in conjunction with other factors, like the pavilion angle, to influence the diamond’s overall light performance.
If you’re considering purchasing a diamond, the crown angle is a crucial factor to keep in mind when evaluating the overall cut quality, as it directly affects how much sparkle and brilliance the diamond will exhibit.

Crown Height

For a round brilliant cut, an ideal crown height typically falls between 12% and 16% of the total diamond depth.

The crown height of a diamond refers to the vertical measurement of the crown portion of the diamond, which is the area above the girdle (the widest part of the diamond). It is one of the key proportions that affects a diamond’s overall cut quality and visual appearance. The crown height plays a significant role in how well a diamond reflects light and how its sparkle is perceived.

Key Points About Diamond Crown Height:
Crown Height and Overall Cut:

The crown height is an important part of a diamond’s cut proportions, which determine how well the diamond will perform in terms of brilliance, fire, and scintillation.
The height of the crown is usually expressed as a percentage of the overall depth of the diamond. The depth is the total height of the diamond from the culet (bottom point) to the table (top flat surface).
Crown Height Proportions:

For a round brilliant diamond, the ideal crown height is typically between 12% and 16% of the total depth.
A crown height that is too shallow can cause the diamond to appear flat, as light may escape from the sides, reducing its brilliance and sparkle.
A crown that is too tall can make the diamond appear top-heavy, and it might lead to light leakage from the bottom of the diamond, affecting its overall light performance.
Crown Height and Brilliance:

The crown height affects the angle of the crown facets and, consequently, the way light enters and exits the diamond. Proper crown height ensures that light is reflected and refracted optimally within the stone, creating the sparkle and brilliance diamonds are known for.
When the crown height is proportioned correctly, it maximizes light return, ensuring that the diamond exhibits bright flashes of light and vibrant colours (fire).
Impact of Crown Height on Visual Appearance:

Shallow Crown Height: A crown that is too shallow may cause the diamond to look less vibrant and may reduce its overall brightness. Light can escape from the sides, diminishing the diamond’s sparkle.
Tall Crown Height: A crown that is too tall can make the diamond look overly deep or heavy, which can reduce the amount of light returning through the top of the diamond, leading to a darker appearance.
Relationship with Pavilion Angle:

The crown height is often considered alongside the pavilion angle (the angle of the lower portion of the diamond) to determine the diamond’s overall light performance. The crown and pavilion work together to reflect light properly inside the diamond, and the proportions of these angles must complement each other for optimal results.
Crown Height in Grading:

When diamonds are graded by gemological laboratories like GIA or DCLA, the crown height is taken into consideration as part of the overall cut grade. A well-proportioned crown height helps achieve a grade of Excellent or Ideal in terms of cut quality, which is a critical factor in a diamond’s value and appearance.
Ideal Crown Height:

For a round brilliant cut, an ideal crown height typically falls between 12% and 16% of the total diamond depth.
This range ensures that the crown is tall enough to allow proper light reflection, but not so tall that it causes light leakage or reduces overall brightness.
Summary of Diamond Crown Height:
Crown Height: The vertical measurement from the girdle to the table of the diamond.
Ideal Proportion: For round brilliant diamonds, the crown height is ideally between 12% and 16% of the diamond’s total depth.
Impact on Light Performance: A properly proportioned crown height ensures the diamond reflects light optimally, producing maximum brilliance and sparkle.