Choosing a diamond shape can be a personal and subjective decision. Here are some factors to consider:
Personal style and preference: Consider what shape you personally like the most. Do you prefer a classic look or something more modern?
Hand shape and size: The size and shape of your hand can also influence which diamond shape looks best. For example, if you have shorter fingers, you might want to choose a diamond shape that creates the illusion of length, such as an oval or marquise.
Diamond setting: The setting you choose can also affect the diamond’s appearance. Certain shapes may look better in certain settings. For example, a round diamond is often set in a prong setting, while an emerald or asscher cut diamond may look better in a bezel setting.
Budget: Different diamond shapes come in a variety of price points. Round diamonds are often the most expensive, while shapes such as princess and cushion cuts may be more affordable.
Rarity: Some diamond shapes are more rare than others, such as the pear or heart shape. If you are looking for something unique, you may want to consider one of these shapes.
Ultimately, choosing a diamond shape should be based on what you personally like and what looks best on you. Consider all of these factors when making your decision.
When it comes to buying that dream diamond, most people are unsure of what to look for. Buying that perfect diamond is not a low-cost exercise, with an average selling price of $16,000 for a 1 Carat quality diamond ring. Making sure that you make the correct choice for your budget is vital in making any diamond purchase.
Here are some tips from Australia’s diamond experts at the DCLA.
The Diamond Shape: The shape is the first and most important decision to make when purchasing a diamond as this sets the design of your jewellery piece. The diamond shape sometimes referred to as cut, is the geometric appearance of the stone. The shapes are categorised into two groups for pricing, round diamonds, and fancy shape diamonds.
Round Diamonds Round brilliant cut diamonds are the most traditional and popular diamond shape consisting of 57 facets top and bottom. Almost 75% of all manufactured diamonds are round.
The diamond shape is 100% symmetrical when polished and having an excellent grade will display a range of features helping the crystal reflect light.
Round diamonds are the only shape that has a proven proportion or cut grade, which shows the optimum angle for a diamond to return the right amount of light back to the viewer.
This grade is based on light tracing. This is the way light refracts through the crystal, then reflecting off the facets and returning to the table and crown.
Fancy Shape Diamonds Fancy shape diamonds refer to all diamonds other than the round brilliant shape.
These include the traditional shapes like pear, emerald, oval, marquise, cushion, heart and asscher. As well as the newer modern cuts like the princess, trilliant and radiant.
The modern fancies have become popular with cuts like the square radiant and Princess have remarkably high light return due to symmetry, facet design and placement. These stones have similar brilliance to the round due to faceting. Facets start at the girdle (outer rim of the stone) and run down to the culet (point at the bottom).
The step cuts like emerald shape diamond are traditional as the facets run parallel to the table. These facets to create clean optical appearance.
As the step cut diamonds are less brilliant, small inclusions can sometimes be visible. To avoid visible inclusions step cuts diamond need to be of higher clarity grades, especially with centrally located high contrasting inclusions.
Fancy shapes with longer length to width ratios like marquise or pear, give a slimming effect when set correctly down the finger. The unique look of the longer stones. Oval, marquise, and pear-shaped diamond makes it a popular choice.
The square cushion shape cut in the brilliant style, has the same properties as the round brilliant and if cut with 8 main top and bottom corresponding corners (main facets) will have the Hearts and Arrows effect.
The cushion shape stone has rounded corners which make it a great alternative to a round at a lower price per carat the other of the 4C’s being equal. (Carat, Colour, Clarity).
All diamonds are unique just like you. The 4Cs Colour, Clarity, Cut and Carat weight along with many other more subtitle characteristics give the diamond its grade and set the stones value. Diamonds with the same 4C’s grade can be quite different in value due to the more subtle characteristics mostly overlooked when buying. Understanding the 4Cs along with these characteristics is a very important step in purchasing your perfect diamond.
The Diamonds Cut The cut refers not to the shape (e.g., round, oval etc.) but to a diamond’s proportions, symmetry, and polish. The beauty of a diamond depends more on cut than any other factor as it determines how light travels into the stone and is returned to the viewer.
The cut of the diamond is arguably the most important of the 4Cs as it directly impacts the diamonds light performance. A diamonds facets are designed and placed in varied orientations and specific angles to reflect the light in a uniform way. Like tiny mirrors, each facet is precisely polished and arranged to maximize its reflective properties. A master diamond cutter will be trained to get the most weight from the rough diamond, while getting the best light performance from the diamond crystal. This is a delicate balance not always achieved, as such the diamond proportion or cut quality should be the highest priority.
When a diamond proportion or cut grade is low, the diamond performance will let down even the highs colour and clarity. A lower colour diamond with an Excellent proportion grade will have better brilliance and fire and look better than a high colour with a good proportion.
Here are some useful terms when referring to a diamond cut:
Proportion or cut grade is precision and angle of the diamond faceting. Symmetry is the mirror image of the stone referenced like a clock 12 – 6 and 9 – 3 as well as alignment of the facets top to bottom. Polish is the overall finish of the skin or surface of the diamond. This includes features or characteristics like surface graining, naturals, or extra facets.
Diamond Colour Diamonds come in every imaginable colour from pure white to any other colour in the spectrum. Many coloured diamonds are highly prized, however the presence of yellow tint in a white diamond with greatly reduce its value.
Diamonds are graded on a scale from D (colourless) through Z (light colour). D-Z are considered white (cape scale) and true fancy coloured diamonds (such as pink or blues) are graded on a separate scale.
Colour is accurately judged when viewed in laboratory conditions against a known comparison stone which are called a master set. Diamond colour distinction is so subtle that it is practically invisible to even the trained eye. White diamonds or Cape series have formed from a carbon nitrogen bond and the more nitrogen the more yellow is visible. Very rare and completely colourless diamonds have no nitrogen and are known as type 2a. These are the most valuable.
Diamond Clarity Diamond clarity refers to the diamond’s inclusions. Inclusions come in many variants from solid carbon to clouds or remnants of microscopic fractures all formed in the diamond billions of years ago.
Diamond Clarity Chart
The more inclusions or the larger the inclusion the lower the clarity grade. These can sometimes cause transparency issues or interrupt the refraction of light, affecting its brilliance. Most diamonds have inclusions, very few are internally flawless or pure.
Diamonds are graded for clarity on a scale that runs from IF (internally flawless) to I (included). The higher the grade, the clearer the diamond, with fewer inclusions and a more perfect appearance. The diamond clarity scale has six categories, with 11 specific grades.
Flawless (FL): There are no inclusions or blemishes visible to the diamond under 10x magnification. Internally Flawless (IF) Loupe Clean: There no inclusions visible to the diamond under 10x magnification there may be external characteristics. Very Very Slight Inclusions (VVS1 and VVS2): Inclusions of 5 – 10 microns or a number of smaller cloud like inclusions. Very difficult for a skilled grader to see under 10x magnification. Very Slight Included (VS1 and VS2): Inclusions are found by experienced grades under 10x magnification, characterised as minor. Slightly Included (SI1 and SI2): Inclusions are easily found under 10x magnification, buy not eye visible. Included (I1, I2 and I3): Inclusions sometimes visible to the naked eye are easily found under 10x magnification. These inclusions may affect the transparency and brilliance of the diamond.
Diamond Carat Carat or weight is the biggest contribution to the value of the diamond but is only one part in determining the value of a diamond. That said all else being equal IE: the cut, colour and clarity, a diamond’s price does increase with every size category in carat.
Rarity also determines the value of the diamond with larger stones being rarer and more valuable. A diamond carat is the actual measured weight of the stone and due to different proportion grades, this is necessarily an indication of its size.
In the context of diamonds, shape refers to the basic outline or form of a polished diamond, which is distinct from its cut (which pertains to the diamond’s facets, proportions, and overall craftsmanship). The shape is the fundamental, overall geometry of the diamond, determining its appearance and how it interacts with light. The shape of a diamond is typically selected based on personal preference, aesthetic taste, and desired brilliance, as different shapes have different effects on the way a diamond reflects light and sparkles.
Types of Diamond Shapes
There are several common diamond shapes, each with unique characteristics, and they vary in terms of their appearance, the way they reflect light, and their overall style. Below are some of the most popular diamond shapes:
Round:
The round shape is the most popular and traditional diamond shape, known for its exceptional brilliance and sparkle. It has a circular outline and is cut with 57 or 58 facets, including the table, crown, pavilion, and girdle. This shape maximises light reflection, making it the most sought-after shape for engagement rings and other jewellery.
The round shape is also known as the round brilliant cut, which is designed to achieve the highest level of brilliance and scintillation, making it the benchmark for diamond cutting.
Princess:
The princess shape is a square or rectangular diamond with pointed corners. It is the second most popular diamond shape after the round shape and is prized for its sharp, modern appearance. Princess cut diamonds have a brilliant faceting style, offering excellent sparkle. This shape is often selected for engagement rings and other jewellery due to its versatile and elegant appearance.
This shape is known for its clean lines, and it’s often favoured by those who want the brilliance of a round diamond but prefer a more angular look.
Emerald:
The emerald shape is a rectangular diamond with cut corners and a step-cut faceting style. Unlike the brilliant cuts, emerald cut diamonds are more about clarity and the stone’s internal characteristics, showcasing the diamond’s clarity through large, open facets.
The emerald shape is known for its elegance, producing a sleek and sophisticated look. It is particularly suited for those who appreciate a vintage style or want a more subtle, understated sparkle compared to the brilliance of other cuts.
Cushion:
The cushion shape is a square or rectangular diamond with rounded corners, giving it a pillow-like appearance. This shape combines features of both the round brilliant and emerald cut, offering a balance of brilliance and clarity.
The cushion shape has a romantic, vintage appeal and is known for its soft, gentle curves. This shape has become increasingly popular in recent years, especially in antique-style jewellery.
Oval:
The oval shape is an elongated round diamond, offering the same brilliance as a round diamond but with an elongated, oval outline. This shape creates the illusion of a larger stone due to its elongated shape and is often chosen for its ability to make fingers appear more slender.
Oval diamonds are known for their classic elegance and sparkling appearance. The elongated form gives a sense of modernity, and it works well in many jewellery settings, particularly for engagement rings.
Marquise:
The marquise shape is a football-like or boat-shaped diamond, with pointed ends and a long, elongated outline. This shape is known for creating the illusion of length and size, making it appear larger than other shapes of the same carat weight.
Marquise diamonds are ideal for creating a bold, dramatic look and are often used in statement pieces or vintage-inspired designs.
Pear:
The pear shape is a combination of round and marquise cuts, with one pointed end and one rounded end, resembling a teardrop. This shape has a soft, elegant look and is often seen in pendants, earrings, and engagement rings.
The pear shape is known for its flattering effect on the hand or neck, as its elongated shape can make the fingers or neckline appear more slender. It also offers a unique balance of brilliance and elegance.
Asscher:
The asscher shape is a square version of the emerald cut, with cut corners and a distinctive step-cut faceting. This shape has a vintage appeal, often associated with the early 20th century and the art deco period.
The asscher shape is known for its regal, sophisticated look and clarity, emphasising the diamond’s natural beauty and internal characteristics. It’s a great choice for those who enjoy vintage or retro styles.
Radiant:
The radiant shape is a square or rectangular diamond with cut corners, combining the brilliance of a round cut with the elegance of an emerald cut. The facets of a radiant diamond are typically more brilliant, giving the stone a striking sparkle while retaining its structured outline.
Radiant diamonds are popular for their modern appeal and versatility, working well in many types of jewellery, from engagement rings to statement necklaces.
Heart:
The heart shape is a romantic, symbolic diamond shape, resembling a heart. It’s a modified brilliant cut, and it’s often selected for engagement rings and valentine’s jewellery due to its emotional significance.
Heart-shaped diamonds combine both brilliance and emotional appeal, and they are often used in pendants, rings, and earrings for special occasions.
Factors Influencing Diamond Shape Selection
When choosing a diamond shape, several factors should be considered:
Personal Taste: The aesthetic preference of the buyer plays a crucial role in selecting the shape. Some may prefer the classic brilliance of the round shape, while others may gravitate towards the elegance of the emerald or the romance of the heart.
Brilliance: Different shapes have varying levels of brilliance. Round diamonds generally offer the highest level of brilliance, while step-cut diamonds (like emerald and asscher) may offer less sparkle but more emphasis on clarity.
Finger Shape and Size: Some diamond shapes, like the oval and marquise, can make fingers appear longer and slender, while other shapes, like cushion or round, may have a more balanced look.
Diamond Setting: The shape of the diamond affects the type of setting it can be used with. Round diamonds fit most settings, but fancy-shaped diamonds, like pear or heart, may require more custom settings to highlight their unique outlines.
Size Appearance: Some diamond shapes, like marquise and pear, can create the illusion of a larger diamond, which may be preferred for those looking for a bigger appearance without increasing carat weight.
The shape of a diamond is a fundamental factor in its overall appearance and appeal. Each shape offers its own unique style, brilliance, and aesthetic qualities, allowing buyers to select the diamond that best reflects their personal tastes, lifestyle, and the intended jewellery setting. Whether opting for the timeless round or the elegant emerald, each shape offers something special, making it an essential element in choosing the perfect diamond.
