The dazzling jewellery made for pets

Since ancient times, jewelled collars, saddles and bridles have ensured that animal companions

Since ancient times, jewelled collars, saddles and bridles have ensured that animal companions were as finely jewelled as their owners. Animal bling seems to have been particularly popular from the mid-19th century. Vogue’s 1896 article “Swagger Dogs” told its readers that “Dog jewelry forms an interesting exhibit, is marvelously fine and valuable, if absurdly extravagant”. These dogs sported jewelled collars, leg bracelets and bangles galore.

Lord Berners, the model for Nancy Mitford’s Lord Merlin in The Pursuit of Love, was well known for decorating his pet dalmatians with diamond necklaces, while the poet Elizabeth Barrett Browning made a collar for her dog Flush from a mosaic bead necklace. When Frances Work (Mrs Aurel Batonyi), the great-grandmother of Diana, Princess of Wales, visited the casino with her dog, she matched her jewels with its own diamond collar. The Daily Express of 1903 even recommended “diamond studded dog-collars with receptacles for scent” for smartly dressed dogs. According to early 20th-century newspapers, some dogs even wore bracelets around their paws and gem-set earrings. One of the gifts given to Jenny and Rosie Dolly, the fabulously glamorous cabaret dancers of the 1930s, was a pair of tortoises. These came from the besotted retail magnate Harry Selfridge, their shells set by Cartier with 4-carat blue diamonds.

The Dolly Sisters in the 1920s

The Dolly Sisters in the 1920s

The modern dog with a generous budget could choose from the famously expensive Amour Amour collars, the top-of-the-range set with 52 carats of diamonds, to elegant options from Hermès, Louis Vuitton, Tiffany and Christian Louboutin (with signature red lining). Sadly cats haven’t attracted the same attention from jewellers, although they might not have the same patience for dressing up as their dog counterparts.

The size M Loubicollar dog collar from Christian Louboutin

The size M Loubicollar dog collar from Christian Louboutin

Animal lives are shorter than human ones and bereaved owners often wanted a record of their animal companions, often through paintings and photographs but also via memorial jewellery set with their images and sometimes even hair.

The brooch with a portrait of Nero made for Jane Carlyle

The brooch with a portrait of Nero made for Jane Carlyle

Jane Carlyle’s little dog Nero was a great comfort to her through the ups and downs of her marriage to the author Thomas Carlyle. Nero, painted as “large as a sheep” to Jane’s dismay, can be seen lying comfortably on the sofa in Robert Tait’s painting of the Carlyles at home. When Nero died in February 1860, Jane turned to the painter to help her create a memorial. Writing to Tait, she asked him to send her a photograph of the detail of Nero from the painting to make into a brooch.

Queen Victoria’s collie Gipsy, painted by Friedrich Wilhelm Keyl

Queen Victoria’s collie Gipsy, painted by Friedrich Wilhelm Keyl

Jane Carlyle wasn’t the only bereaved owner to want a lasting memory of her pet. Queen Victoria extended her appetite for sentimental jewellery to her animals. As well as a photograph album recording all the dogs in the Windsor kennels, one of her favourite dogs was immortalised in a jewel. In 1863 the Prince of Wales ordered a crystal brooch with the image of the Queen’s recently deceased collie Gipsy from the royal jewellers, Garrards. Some years later, as Edward VII, he kept strands of his favourite terrier Jack’s hair in a locket on his desk.

Amour Amour is the world’s most expensive dog collar with the price tag of $3.2 million

Amour Amour is the world’s most expensive dog collar with the price tag of $3.2 million

And although in general cats have not been lucky enough to be gifted jewels during their seven lifetimes, they have also been turned into a glittery accessory.

Mary Russell, Duchess of Bedford, was well known for her passion for Siamese cats. According to Boudoir Magazine in 1904, she wore a locket holding the portrait of Goblin, her favourite cat. Goblin’s thoughts on the matter are not recorded.

Source: Thetimes

Gemfields hit by Slump in Emerald Sales

Gemfields suffered a slump in sales and prices at its latest auction of rough emeralds from its Kagem mine, in Zambia.

Gemfields suffered a slump in sales and prices at its latest auction of rough emeralds from its Kagem mine, in Zambia.

The UK-based company blamed conflicts, elections, and economic uncertainty in China, compounded by a diary clash with an emerald competitor, reportedly selling at low prices.

Gemfields sold only 61 per cent of the almost 4m carats on offer in a series of auctions ending 13 September in Jaipur, India, and online. At the last four sales it sold well over 90 per cent.

Total sales were $10.8m, down 67 per cent on its September 2023 sales. The average price per carat was $4.47, down by a half on the same event last year.

Gemfields says the mix and quality of lots varies, so the results of each auction are not always directly comparable.

Today’s overall result is weaker than expected,” said Adrian Banks, Gemfields’ managing director of product and sales, “exacerbated in part by a competing emerald producer scheduling their own auction to finish in early September 2024, in the middle of ours, and selling through their emeralds at what customers reported as low prices.”

He said the company was committed to acting responsibly – as it did at this auction – by withholding auction lots when fair market prices were not achieved.

Source: Idex

Lucara recovers sixth diamond larger than 1,000 carats at Karowe mine in Botswana

1,094 carat diamond from its Karowe mine in Botswana.

Canada’s Lucara Diamond has dug up a 1,094 carat diamond from its Karowe mine in Botswana.

This is the sixth diamond weighing more than 1,000 carats to be recovered at the mine, and it comes only weeks after the recovery of a 2,492 carat diamond the second-largest diamond ever recovered.

“This remarkable stone bears striking similarities to the 692 carat diamond announced in August 2023, which was polished by HB Antwerp and yielded polished diamonds that sold for in excess of $13 million,” the company said in a press release.

“This newly recovered 1,094 carat stone will also be polished by HB Antwerp, as part of the ongoing partnership between the two companies,” Lucara said.

The Karowe mine has produced several large diamonds in recent years, including the 1,758-carat Sewelô in 2019, the 1,109 carat Lesedi La Rona in 2015, and the 813 carat Constellation, also in 2015. The mine is also credited for having yielded Botswana’s largest fancy pink diamond to date, the Boitumelo.

Botswana is the world’s largest producer of diamonds, and the trade has transformed it into a middle-income nation.

Karowe remains one of the highest margin diamond mines in the world, producing an average of 300,000 high value carats each year.

Shares of Lucara rose 8% by 11:40 a.m EDT in Toronto. The miner has a market capitalization of C$221 million ($162 million).

Source: mining.com

Russia Increases Rough Exports to India

Rough diamonds imported from Russia to India

Russian exports of rough diamonds to India increased by well over a fifth, to 4.1m carats, during the first six months of the G7 sanctions.

Total sales were up by 22.23 per cent for January to June 2024, according to the Indian Ministry of Commerce and Industry. But revenue fell by 15.22 per cent, as prices keep declining, from $614m to $520m.

Russian exports for June alone were 347,620 carats, an increase of almost 32 per cent on the same month last year.

The G7 and EU nations imposed sanctions on all Russian diamonds of 1.0-cts and above, regardless of where they were cut and polished, from 1 January. The threshold was lowered to 0.50-cts and above from 1 September.

Rough diamonds imported from Russia to India can only be sold to markets beyond the G7 and EU.

India’s diamond industry has been calling on the government to allow direct payments to Russia so it can more easily buy sanctioned goods.

Source: IDEX

De Beers Supports New G7 Restrictions on Diamond Imports

De Beers rough diamonds

Diamond giant De Beers is fully prepared for the expanded G7 restrictions on diamond imports from Russia, which took effect on September 1st. These restrictions now include diamonds weighing 0.5 carats and above, according to Rough&Polished.

De Beers stated that its customers will continue to provide proof of the origin of the diamonds they sell, even as the sanctions now cover rough diamonds weighing 0.5 carats and above, instead of 1 carat and above, as previously stipulated.

The company added that it welcomes the G7’s measures, which stand alongside the diamond industry and diamond-producing nations, aiming to trace the origin of diamonds. “De Beers fully supports the work being carried out by the G7 to prohibit the trade in Russian diamonds, and we are committed to working with the G7, the diamond industry, and our partner governments to ensure there is an effective system put in place,” said De Beers CEO Al Cook.

De beers natural rough diamond sorting
Diamond giant De Beers

Source: Israelidiamond

Gem Diamonds finds 122 carat stone at Letšeng mine

122.2 carat Type II white diamond

Africa-focused miner Gem Diamonds has unearthed yet another massive white diamond at its prolific Letšeng mine in Lesotho, just days after another major find.

The 122.2 carat Type II white diamond was recovered over the weekend and is the eleventh greater than 100-carat precious stone mined this year at the operation, the company said.

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Type IIa diamonds are the most valued and collectable precious gemstones, as they contain either very little or no nitrogen atoms in their crystal structure.

The Letšeng mine, owned 70% by Gem Diamonds, is one of the world’s ten largest diamond operations by revenue. At 3,100 metres (10,000 feet) above sea level, it is also one of the world’s most elevated diamond mines.

The operation has a track record of producing large, exceptional white diamonds, which makes it the highest-dollar-per-carat kimberlite diamond mine in the world.

Source: mining.com

Zimbabwe Ramps up Diamond Production

The Zimbabwe Consolidated Diamond Company (ZCDC)

Zimbabwe’s state-owned diamond company is forecasting a 16 per cent increase this year.

The Zimbabwe Consolidated Diamond Company (ZCDC) said it was ramping up production to 5.7m carats in 2024 and would aim to increase that figure to 10m carats next year.

Munashe Shava, ZCDC board chairman, said: “Commodity prices are depressed on the global market and we have come up with various initiatives to offset this worrisome development.

The Chronicle newspaper reported him as saying: “We have ramped up production and this year we have set a target of 5.7m carats and we see this target nearly doubling to 20m carats in the coming year.”

Zimbabwe, the world’s seventh biggest diamond producing nation, recorded an output of 4.9m carats, according to Kimberley Process data, valued at $303m. It exported 5.6m carats valued at $297m.

Earlier this year the US sanctioned Zimbabwe’s President Emmerson Mnangagwa for human rights abuses, corruption and smuggling gold and diamonds.

Mnangagwa, 81, who has held office since 2017, insists the claims against him are “defamatory” and “malicious”.

Source: IDEX

$300m Loan to Boost Okavango Diamond Purchases

Botswana's state-owned diamond marketing company will increase its borrowing to fund additional rough purchases.

Botswana’s state-owned diamond marketing company will increase its borrowing to fund additional rough purchases.

Finance Minister Peggy Serame said last Thursday (29 August) that the government had arranged a $300m credit facility, with the Standard Chartered Bank for the Okavango Diamond Company (ODC).

It hopes to capitalize on a long-awaited recovery the global diamond market.

At the moment ODC’s limited cash reserves mean it can only buy $70m of its allocation of diamonds produced by Debswana, the 50/50 joint venture between De Beers and the Botswana government.

ODC holds 10 auctions a year to sell its 25% allocation from Debswana. That share is set to double to 50 per cent over the next decade, as part of a deal agreed last year between Botswana and De Beers.

Last October ODC halted its rough sales amid weak demand.

Source: Idex

US Sanctions Russian Diamond Cutter and Retail Jeweler

jewelry brand Miuz and the diamond cutter Kristall

The US has added the prominent jewelry brand Miuz and the diamond cutter Kristall to its list of sanctioned companies in Russia.

Kristall, Russia’s largest diamond cutter, is now on the Specially Designated Nationals (SDN) List administered by the US Treasury Department.

Alrosa, its parent company has been on the list since April 2022, shortly after Russia invaded Ukraine. Kristall, based in Smolensk, has been part of the Alrosa group since 2019.

Miuz Diamonds, which has production facilities in Moscow and Perm and a chain of 300 retail outlets, has also been added to the list.

Miuz is part of the Ruiz Group of diamond and jewelry enterprises, linked to Israeli billionaire Lev Leviev.

It is not clear why the companies were not sanctioned sooner.

Kristall and Miuz are among almost 400 individuals and entities in Russia and beyond its borders that were added to the SDN list last Friday (23 August).

“Russia has turned its economy into a tool in service of the Kremlin’s military industrial complex,” said Deputy Secretary of the Treasury Wally Adeyemo, announcing the additions.

“Treasury’s actions today continue to implement the commitments made by President Biden and his G7 counterparts to disrupt Russia’s military-industrial base supply chains and payment channels.”

Source: Idex

US Lifts Ban on Grandfathered Diamonds Amid New Sanctions on Russian Gems

diamond jewellery and loose rough gem-quality diamonds

The Office of Foreign Assets Control (OFAC) has issued new licenses under the Russian Harmful Foreign Activities Sanctions Regulations, allowing for the sale of diamond jewellery and loose gem-quality diamonds imported before recent sanctions were implemented. This significant policy shift permits goods that were previously prohibited to re-enter the market.

Under the new guidelines, diamond jewellery purchased before March 1, 2024, as well as loose diamonds of 1 carat or larger bought before that date, and those of at least 0.50 carats purchased before September 1, 2024, can now be sold. The relaxation for loose diamonds will remain in effect until September 1, 2025.

However, starting September 1, 2024, the next phase of G7 diamond sanctions will impose restrictions on all goods of 0.50 carats or above from Russia, regardless of where they are cut and polished. This phase of sanctions is set to take effect next Sunday, despite substantial opposition from various industry stakeholders.

In response, the Jewelers Vigilance Committee has reported that the United States is considering supporting a delay in the implementation of these sanctions. This potential delay, which aligns with the European Union’s proposed extension to March 1, 2025, aims to provide additional time to resolve the intricacies of the sanctions and their impact on the diamond trade.

Source: diamondworld