De Beers – Page 25 – The Diamond Certification Laboratory of Australia (DCLA)

De Beers Reveals Overhaul of Sight System

De Beers plans to split sightholders into three categories and offer each group a more bespoke selection of rough diamonds as part of changes to its sales system.

Manufacturers, dealers and retailers will sign specific supply contracts designed for the “broad needs” of each business model, a De Beers spokesperson told Rapaport News Thursday.

The arrangement will take effect in January 2021, following the end of the current sightholder contract, which runs until December 2020. Applications start this week, giving companies four weeks to complete the process, a source in the rough market said on condition of anonymity.

The manufacturer contract will “support the core strengths” of each cutting firm, De Beers explained. Dealers — those that buy rough for resale — will receive a “regular and consistent range of goods,” especially in higher-volume areas. The retailer contract is tailored for companies that sell jewelry to consumers and also have polishing operations. Beneficiation contracts — for sightholders that commit to polishing certain goods in the country where they were mined — will remain as modified versions of the manufacturing contract.

“It is our ambition to offer supplies and services that can help to better support the unique strengths of the great businesses of the diamond midstream, and we feel this approach is the optimal way of achieving this,” the spokesperson said.

The company has long been contemplating changes to its sightholder system amid difficult conditions in the manufacturing and trading sectors, such as tight liquidity and an inventory imbalance. Its supply rules — based on a method known as “demonstrated demand” — have also faced criticism.

Under that system, De Beers mainly determines clients’ rough supply using their purchasing record — a controversial policy because it can encourage sightholders to take on unprofitable inventory to secure future access to its goods. It offers the diamonds in prearranged boxes that customers either take or leave, with only limited flexibility to adjust the contents. That sometimes forces sightholders to buy items they don’t want just so they can get the stones they need.

The current method has come under particular scrutiny given the excess polished in the market last year, which contributed to a slump in rough demand. Last July, Dutch bank ABN Amro urged its clients to stop buying unprofitable rough, and attacked the practice of making purchases purely to maintain supply allocations.

De Beers’ revenue fell 24% to $4.61 billion in 2019, while underlying earnings slid 87% to $45 million, as the supply glut left sightholders unwilling to buy more rough. The situation forced the miner to allow unprecedented refusals and other concessions to avoid flooding the market with goods.

The “need for us to adapt to the changing world” has been the subject of talks between De Beers and sightholders for a while, the company spokesperson added.

“This new approach to sightholder contracts is one way we are going about this,” he noted.

Source: Diamonds.net

De Beers Lets Sightholders Defer Chinese Goods

De Beers has allowed clients to forgo buying certain rough diamonds at this week’s sight, as the coronavirus outbreak has raised concerns about a polished glut.

The miner has let sightholders defer purchases of goods that produce the types of polished popular in the Chinese retail market, a source at the sight told Rapaport News Wednesday. The concessions apply to 1- to 2-carat rough diamonds that can make polished under a carat, as Chinese demand is highly focused on that size category, especially the 0.30- to 0.50-carat range.

Instead of taking up those allocations at this sale, the second of the year, customers will be able push them back to sights 3, 4 and 5. Those who already deferred their supply from the last two sales of 2019 will only be able to delay their purchases to sight 3, which begins March 30.

“People are very afraid of the market, and stocks are building because there are no sales to the Far East,” the source said on condition of anonymity. De Beers declined to comment on the move.

De Beers apportions rough supply to sightholders based mainly on their purchase history, and divides those allocations across the 10 sights that take place during the year. Clients can usually defer only a limited proportion of the goods earmarked from them, but the miner has provided more flexibility of late because of the weak market.

In the second half of last year, De Beers offered unprecedented measures, such as letting customers refuse half of the goods in a box or sell up to 30% of their rough purchases back to the miner.

It ended the special rules at the December sight, as an oversupply of polished in the midstream started to ease. However, the coronavirus epidemic has lowered jewelry demand in China, where the outbreak started, creating uncertainty about manufacturers’ ability to sell their polished. Concerns escalated this week when it emerged the disease had spread beyond the Far East to Europe and Iran.

“The virus has the potential to badly damage the market for the next few months, but we don’t know [the extent of the impact],” an executive at a Mumbai-based sightholder commented. “If it goes on for a long time, it will be a problem not only for De Beers, but for many, many companies in India.”

Source: Diamonds.net

Virus Likely to Impact Demand at De Beers Sight

De Beers and its clients expect a slowdown in rough-diamond sales at the company’s Botswana sight this week amid concerns about the coronavirus.

“It’s fair to say there will be an impact on rough demand in the short term,” De Beers chief financial officer Nimesh Patel said Thursday in an interview with Rapaport News. “I’d expect we’d see that at the [February] sight.”

The downturn in China’s retail market due to the virus outbreak has left manufacturers uncertain how long it will take them to sell diamonds they cut. Companies that supply to that region have been especially affected.

Rough that can produce polished with clarity above VS has shown weakness in recent tenders due to the lower Chinese demand, one sightholder said on condition of anonymity. Lower-clarity items destined for the American market have performed better, he added.

“It’s a mixed picture,” the sightholder explained. “People that are strongly focused on the Far East will be reluctant to buy, while those that work with the US and maybe Europe still seem to be going OK.”

De Beers will hold back goods rather than lowering prices, the dealer added, predicting that the sight would be small in value. The miner has kept prices stable for the sale, which began Monday, two sightholders confirmed with Rapaport News.

Another De Beers client expected buyers would take up most of their allocations at this sight, but said the next sale beginning March 30 would be weak if the coronavirus difficulties were still going on.

“I’m hopeful this crisis might not last more than two or three weeks,” he said.

Meanwhile, Patel pointed out that some goods could be rerouted from China to other markets, while certain constant sources of demand, such as weddings, would be delayed rather than disappearing completely. In addition, the midstream has started the year with relatively low inventories due to a reasonably strong fourth-quarter holiday season, putting it in a good position to weather the difficulties, he said.

“We’ve been through periods like this before in the industry,” the executive said. “This is, hopefully, a one-off impact, and the sooner the virus can be contained, and the sooner we can get back to the normal operation of those economies, the better.”

Source: Diamonds.net

De Beers Optimistic After 2019 Earnings Slump

Rough and polished diamonds next to each other at De Beers

De Beers gave a positive outlook for 2020 due to an improvement in the industry’s inventory situation, despite growing concerns about Chinese demand.

Early data from the holiday season indicate midstream stock levels are more balanced than they were, the company reported Thursday in parent company Anglo American’s annual financial results.

The miner maintained its production forecast of 32 million to 34 million carats for the year, citing a “currently anticipated improvement in trading conditions compared with 2019.”

Last year was the worst for De Beers in the past decade, as rough demand plummeted amid an oversupply of polished in the manufacturing and trading sector.

The miner reported that underlying earnings slid 87% to $45 million, while revenue fell 24% to $4.61 billion, its lowest level since the financial crisis.

Rough sales declined 26% to $4 billion, with volume down 8% to 30.9 million carats. De Beers’ average selling price slumped 20% to $137 per carat, reflecting a 6% decline in like-for-like rough prices, as well as weak demand for higher-value diamonds.

Sales from other divisions, which include the Element Six industrial-diamond unit and Lightbox, its lab-grown brand, fell 17% to approximately $570 million, according to Rapaport calculations.

Last year started on a weak note, as stock-market volatility and the US-China trade war led to sluggish 2018 holiday sales, leaving the trade with higher stock levels than it had expected, the company explained.

The situation worsened as US retailers took more goods on memo and pruned their physical-store networks, while consumers shifted further to online buying, reducing the need for inventory.

The midstream also suffered from tight bank financing, dampening demand for more rough, De Beers noted.

De Beers observed “stable” consumer demand so far in 2020, especially in the US, but cautioned that several uncertainties — including the coronavirus outbreak — could pose a threat.

An increase in online purchasing has caused retailers to destock, while US-China trade tensions and geopolitical escalations in the Middle East could also affect economic growth and consumer sentiment, the company added.

Source: Diamonds.net

De Beers Adds Grading Specs for Lightbox

Lightbox has added grading information for its synthetic white diamonds in an effort by the De Beers brand to bring further transparency to the lab-grown sector.

The company will provide technical specifications showing the minimum quality of its stones across cut, color, clarity and carat weight, Lightbox said Monday. It will include these descriptions with each white lab-grown diamond it sells, but will not grade each stone individually. The specifications are based on internationally recognized grading standards, the De Beers-owned company noted.

“This new feature is just one more way Lightbox can instill consumer confidence,” the company added.

An infographic with the information is also available on Lightbox’s website. Those specifications list its synthetic white diamonds to be “near colorless” or better, which the company defines as between G to J, meaning only a trained gemologist can detect a trace of color. The stones all have a minimum clarity of VS, and a cut of “very good.” The stones are still priced at $800 per carat.

Lightbox, which De Beers launched in 2018, does not currently intend to offer grading information for its blue or pink lab-grown diamonds.

Source: Diamonds.net

De Beers Scores Partial CVD Patent Victory

Synthetic colored diamonds at Element Six in Oxford UK De Beers

A court has awarded a limited victory to De Beers’ synthetic-diamond production unit in a patent dispute with Singapore-based grower IIa Technologies.

IIa infringed an Element Six patent related to diamond material that’s usable for lab-grown diamond jewelry and industrial applications, according to a High Court of Singapore judgment Friday. However, another Element Six patent for post-growth color treatment is invalid, judge Valerie Thean also ruled.

“We will continue to be vigilant for any other potential infringement of our [intellectual-property] rights around the globe,” Element Six CEO Walter Hühn said in a statement Friday. “We will defend our rights vigorously — just as any company would — because protecting our ability to get a full return on our investment in [research and development] is vital to our future.”

UK-based Element Six produces synthetic diamonds for De Beers’ lab-grown jewelry brand, Lightbox, and supplies diamond material for industrial and technological uses. The patent it successfully defended, SG 872, was relevant to optical applications such as infrared spectroscopy and high-power laser optics, as well as to the creation of stones for jewelry, De Beers explained.

IIa, which grows CVD goods for distributor and sister company Pure Grown Diamonds (PGD), must stop making, using, importing or maintaining possession of products that infringe patent SG 872, Thean ordered. She also called for the cancellation of Element Six’s patent SG 508, which relates to the annealing of chemical vapor deposition (CVD) diamonds.

“IIa Technologies has developed its proprietary process in the last 15 years, and is proud of the work we have done to bring lab-grown diamonds to the world,” Vishal Mehta, IIa’s CEO, said in a separate statement. “The current judgment will be considered in its entirety, and then the company will take necessary steps to protect its interests.”

The lawsuit, which Element Six filed in 2016, comes amid heightened patent-related legal activity in the synthetic-diamond sector. Last month, WD Lab Grown Diamonds sued six companies — including IIa and PGD — accusing them of infringing its patents for synthesis and treatment.

Source: Diamonds.net

De Beers Plans Overhaul of Supply Policy

De Beers plans to abandon its practice of using sightholders’ purchase history as the main factor in determining how it allocates rough supply, sources have told Rapaport News.

The move, which would go into effect from 2021, would see the miner shift to more subjective criteria for deciding the value of goods each client receives.

The current system, known as “demonstrated demand,” requires sightholders to buy the rough that De Beers has allotted them or risk losing access to De Beers’ diamonds in future. The method has faced criticism for encouraging dealers and manufacturers to take on unprofitable inventory.

But with the current sightholder agreement expiring at the end of this year, De Beers has told clients demonstrated demand will not be the main driver of allocations in the new contract period, the sources said. Discussions about the matter continued at this week’s January sight in Botswana.

The proposals include studying data about clients’ business activities, as well as qualitative factors, to help determine whether companies should be on the client list, a sightholder explained on condition of anonymity. De Beers is also considering reducing the number of sightholders, according to a Bloomberg report last week that Rapaport News could not corroborate.

“We will be communicating directly with customers in the coming months about the new sightholder contract period, which will focus on maximizing the considerable opportunities ahead in the diamond sector,” a De Beers spokesperson said. The company would not elaborate on the details.

The midstream’s accumulation of excess inventory contributed to a severe slowdown in the diamond market in 2019, with De Beers’ full-year sales falling 25% to $4.04 billion. Last July, Dutch bank ABN Amro wrote to its clients urging them to buy rough only when it’s profitable, and attacked the practice of making purchases purely to maintain supply allocations.

Sightholders are expecting this week’s De Beers sale — the first of the year — to be relatively large as the trade replenishes its stocks following a solid holiday season. De Beers raised prices in certain categories, sources said.

Soucre: Diamonds.net

De Beers Issues Synthetics Guidelines

De Beers has provided its rough-diamond clients and Forevermark partners with guidelines on how to operate in the lab-grown market if they wish to continue tapping into its branding.

The mining company, which in 2018 forayed into gem-quality synthetics with the launch of its Lightbox brand, is demanding businesses make full disclosure about their product, segregate synthetics from their natural supply, and do not make unproven claims about either category. The “Statement of Principles” outlines the legal structures companies with lab-grown diamond units must have if they wish to use the sightholder logo, as well as the procedures and training they are required to implement to avoid contamination or misleading marketing.

While De Beers already had rules mandating disclosure and other best practices, the new principles “ensure there is no room for doubt” about how clients may use the sightholder logo, explained David Johnson, head of strategic communications for De Beers. Some of the rules form part of De Beers’ contract with clients, allowing the miner to penalize those who flout them, while others are only recommendations.

“We believe the principles within the document set out a responsible approach, and that they are important for ensuring people can make clear and informed choices about what they are buying,” Johnson added.

The document refers to lab-grown diamonds as “artificial” products that “do not have the same inherent, naturally occurring characteristics or enduring value” as natural diamonds. The miner continues to define diamonds as a natural mineral in line with the International Organization for Standardization (ISO).

De Beers sent the guidelines to clients earlier this month, as numerous sightholders have launched lab-grown businesses under separate entities and trading names.
The following is a summary of the guidelines:

De Beers customers may only use the sightholder license — including displaying the sightholder logo — for business entities that are exclusively natural-diamond businesses. Entities with both natural and lab-grown activities may not use the logo.
The miner recommends setting up distinct and independent businesses for any lab-grown diamond activities, with separate systems, processes and workforces.
The rules prohibit “false, misleading or unsubstantiated” claims about the enduring value of lab-grown diamonds, whether directed at other businesses or at consumers. They cannot state or imply that lab-grown diamonds have the “identical inherent value characteristics” as natural diamonds.
Similarly, unproven claims about the environmental benefits or ethical advantage of lab-grown diamonds over natural ones are forbidden.
Sellers must provide the buyer with full and unambiguous disclosure before the transaction is complete.
They’re also required to ensure segregation at all stages of the supply process, such as storage, cutting and polishing, packaging, and transportation. Ideally, suppliers should handle natural and lab-grown stones in separate sites.
De Beers customers must “take steps” to ensure full disclosure and segregation further along the supply chain, down to the consumer.
Clients must have protocols to identify and mitigate contamination risks, and train staff members on the “operational, commercial and reputational impacts” of lab-grown diamonds.
Preferably, companies should disclose the countries in which the synthetic diamond was grown, polished and made into jewelry, as well as the identity of the grower. De Beers says businesses should “strive” to declare this, though it’s not an absolute requirement.
Grading language must contain words that make it clear a stone is lab-grown.
Customers must follow relevant laws, regulations and best practices, such as the standards that the US Federal Trade Commission (FTC) and the ISO have published.

Source: Diamonds.net

De Beers final diamond sale of the year gives some hope to depressed market

Rough uncut diamonds. Image by De Beers.

Anglo American’s De Beers, the world’s No.1 diamond miner by value, said on Wednesday that its last roughs sale of the year fetched $425 million, a slight improvement from the $400 million it obtained in the previous tender, but still over the year a whopping $1.4 billion less than in 2018.

The figure is also 20% lower than the $544 million worth of diamonds the miner sold in December last year, and it has brought the company’s total sales for 2019 to only $4 billion.

DIAMOND GIANT SALES TOTALLED $4 BILLION THIS YEAR, A WHOPPING $1.4 BILLION LESS THAN IN 2018

The diamond giant sells its stones ten times a year in Botswana’s capital, Gaborone. The buyers, or “sightholders,” usually accept the price and the quantities offered, but in the past months they’ve been given more decision making power, with De Beers allowing them to refuse about 50% of the stones contained in the parcels.

The company has also curbed plans to expand diamond production over the next two years and reduced prices for low-quality stones as much as 10%, in yet another sign of increasing volatility at the bottom end of the market.

Cheaper diamonds, which are often small and low quality, have been selling for significantly less now than six years ago due to an unforeseen oversupply that has weighed on prices and producers’ bottom lines.

The situation, some key actors say, is about to change, as the first signs of stabilization in the sector are starting to appear.

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Pressure has been piled on the industry by a supply glut of rough diamonds and competition from lab grown stones, while unrest in Hong Kong and the US-China trade dispute have knocked demand. — *Source Bain & Company.*

“Following continued polished diamond price stability in the lead up to the final sales cycle of the year, we saw further signs of steady demand for rough diamonds during Sight 10,” De Beers chief executive officer, Bruce Cleaver, said in the statement.

His perception is shared by Russian competitor Alrosa (MCX:ALRS), which last week said it had “evidence” that prices for a variety of diamond products edged higher in October and November. The world’s top diamond producer by output also noted that prospects for de-stocking were “more visible.”

Industry consultant Bain & Co., however, believes that while the glut that’s depressing the diamond market will probably be cleared early next year, it will take at least another 12 months for the market to fully recover.

“The industry’s first and strongest opportunity to rebalance and regain growth will be 2021,” said Bain in a report, adding that supply could fall 8% that year.

Source: mining.com

Diamond miners dented by liquidity crisis among India’s polishers

Diamond miners are feeling the pressure after a funding crunch in the world’s polishing hub dented sales of rough gemstones.

Since celebrity jeweller Nirav Modi fled India in 2018 accused of having defrauded a state bank of nearly $2bn, banks have sharply cut back lending to diamantaires, who cut, polish and trade the world’s diamonds.

“Bankers have blacklisted the jewellers industry,” said Shantibhai Patel, president of the Indian Bullion and Jewellers Association in Gujarat, the country’s diamond-cutting centre.

The squeeze has forced diamantaires to buy less from diamond producers such as De Beers, Rio Tinto and Gem Diamonds — which have seen sales and margins suffer as a result.

De Beers is on course to report its worst annual sales in at least four years. In response, the world’s largest producer reduced prices for its rough diamonds by 5 per cent last month at its November sale, the biggest discount in years, Bloomberg reported. De Beers declined to comment on its pricing.

Across the sector, rough diamond prices have fallen 15 per cent since last November, according to Polished Prices. Industry experts say a further 10-15 per cent drop would push some smaller producers to file for bankruptcy.

“It’s a liquidity crisis that’s affecting the middle of the pipeline,” said Edward Sterck, an analyst at BMO Capital Markets. “Diamond manufacturers can’t afford to pay rough diamond prices . . . It’s a function of necessity that prices have come down.”

Diamantaires — 90 per cent of which are based in India — buy rough diamonds from producers such as De Beers that they then cut with lasers and polish for use in jewellery.

The flight of Mr Modi, whose clients included actress Kate Winslet, prompted banks to tighten up lending terms for manufacturers. Bank credit to the diamond industry, of which Indian companies receive about four-fifths, fell 20 per cent to $8bn this year, according to WWW International Diamond Consultants.

As a result, diamond cutters are working through existing stocks rather than buying on the global market. According to India’s Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council, imports of rough diamonds into the country fell 22 per cent year over year to $7.3bn between April and October.

This has struck diamond mining companies hard. Stuart Brown, chief executive at Toronto-based Mountain Province Diamonds, said the rough stone market was “challenging” in its third-quarter results.

Mid-sized producers including Canada’s Lucara Diamond and the UK’s Petra Diamonds all reported lower prices for their diamonds in the latest quarter. Lucara reported a selling price of $390 a carat, a 13 per cent drop from last year and a steep fall from 2014, when gems sold for $644 a carat. Dire market conditions drove Quebec-based Stornoway Diamond into bankruptcy in September.

The diamond industry differs from other commodities given the large influence of the two largest producers on pricing, and the fact that diamonds vary in size, quality and colour. De Beers is a “price setter” that offers uncut stones to traders for fixed prices and quantities at sales, known as “sights”.

Production cuts and concessions, including discounts and flexibility to return stones, have provided some relief to De Beers and its customers. Sales rose last month but were still below $400m — the lowest in a November sight on record.

Mr Patel welcomed the Anglo American-owned company’s price cut, but expected little uplift in the foreseeable future. “There’s no work,” he said. “For one year, one and a half years, we’re not expecting any bullish trends.”

But Colin Shah, managing director of manufacturer Kama Schachter, is hopeful that the worst was over for diamantaires. He said that manufacturers were adjusting to the tougher norms in place after the Modi scandal, which could get liquidity flowing again.

“There’s much more [scrutiny] than there used to be,” he said, referring to banks’ lending practices. “Inventories have come down, everyone has made their business models leaner . . . I think the second half of 2020 will be better.”

Industry executives point to tightening supply over the next few years that will help restore diamonds’ key feature: rarity. Rio Tinto’s Argyle mine, which outputs 90 per cent of the world’s valuable pink diamonds, is set to close next year.

Meanwhile, retail demand for diamonds has been robust, particularly in the US where spending on diamond jewellery grew 4.5 per cent to $36bn last year. French luxury group LVMH’s $16.6bn acquisition of Tiffany, agreed last week, was seen by analysts as a vote of confidence in long-term consumer demand for diamond jewellery.

But other industry figures say more drastic action by diamond mining companies is needed to help bedraggled manufacturers. Martin Rapaport, founder of the world’s largest diamond trading platform, said the price cut was insufficient. “It’s not enough to recapitalise the industry,” he said.

“They need to drop prices as much as 50 per cent to return liquidity to the market. It’s too little too late.”

Source: ft.com