Lightbox has promoted Adam O’Grady to the newly created role of chief operating officer, effective March 27.
The executive will lead all aspects of supply chain and manufacturing activity for the De Beers-owned lab-grown diamond company, it said last week. These include diamond synthesis and jewelry manufacturing, cutting and polishing, and research and development.
O’Grady has been general manager of the Lightbox lab since 2019. In addition to his new responsibilities, he will continue to oversee operations and engineering at the company’s advanced manufacturing lab in Gresham, Oregon, where he is based.
“He is a transformational leader with deep knowledge of the lab-grown diamond category,” said Lightbox CEO Antoine Borde.
Prior to joining Lightbox, O’Grady spent his two-decade professional career at Element Six, De Beers’ industrial super-materials and synthetic-diamond business. He served in a series of general management and senior project roles in South Africa, China and the UK. In 2019, he oversaw the design and construction of Lightbox’s $94 million manufacturing lab in Gresham, which opened in October 2020.
Diamonds have long been a symbol of love, luxury, and status. However, in recent years, there has been a growing interest in the production of laboratory-grown diamonds as a more ethical and sustainable alternative to mined diamonds. In this article, we will explore the differences between a mined diamond and a laboratory-grown diamond.
Mined Diamonds:
Mined diamonds are formed naturally over millions of years deep beneath the earth’s surface. These diamonds are found in mines, usually in remote locations, and are extracted using heavy machinery and explosives. The mining process is often associated with negative environmental and social impacts, such as habitat destruction, water pollution, and exploitation of workers.
Mined diamonds are valued for their rarity and unique characteristics. The quality of a diamond is determined by the 4Cs – cut, clarity, carat weight, and colour. The more perfect a diamond is in each of these categories, the more valuable it is considered to be.
Laboratory-grown Diamonds:
Laboratory-grown diamonds are created using advanced technological processes that mimic the natural formation of diamonds. These diamonds are produced in a laboratory environment, where conditions are controlled and monitored to ensure consistent quality and purity.
The process of creating a laboratory-grown diamond involves using a small diamond seed, which is placed in a chamber and exposed to extreme heat and pressure. Over a period of weeks, carbon atoms are deposited onto the seed, gradually building up the crystal structure of the diamond.
The resulting laboratory-grown diamond is physically and chemically identical to a mined diamond, and can be graded using the same 4Cs criteria.
Differences between Mined Diamonds and Laboratory-grown Diamonds:
Mined diamonds and laboratory-grown diamonds have very similar chemical properties, as they are both made of pure carbon atoms arranged in a crystalline structure. However, there are some subtle differences in the impurities and defects that can be present in each type of diamond.
Mined diamonds can contain trace elements such as nitrogen, boron, and hydrogen, which can affect the diamond’s colour and other properties. Laboratory-grown diamonds can also contain these impurities, but they can be controlled more precisely during the growth process to produce diamonds with specific colours and properties.
One key difference between mined and laboratory-grown diamonds is the presence of defects in the crystal structure. Mined diamonds can contain defects such as vacancies, dislocations, and impurity atoms, which can affect the diamond’s hardness and other physical properties. Laboratory-grown diamonds are typically more pure and have fewer defects, which can make them more consistent in their properties and easier to work with for industrial and scientific applications.
In terms of their chemical composition, both mined and laboratory-grown diamonds are made of pure carbon, with each carbon atom bonded to four neighboring carbon atoms in a tetrahedral arrangement. This gives diamonds their unique hardness and other physical properties, as well as their optical properties such as high refractive index and dispersion.
Overall, while there are some subtle differences in the impurities and defects that can be present in mined and laboratory-grown diamonds, they are both essentially the same material in terms of their chemical properties.
One of the key differences between mined diamonds and laboratory-grown diamonds is their origin. Mined diamonds are natural, formed over millions of years in the earth’s mantle. Laboratory-grown diamonds, on the other hand, are created using advanced technological processes in a laboratory.
Another difference is the environmental and social impact of the two types of diamonds. Mined diamonds are often associated with negative environmental and social impacts, such as habitat destruction, water pollution, and exploitation of workers. Laboratory-grown diamonds, on the other hand, are generally considered to be more sustainable and ethical, as they do not involve the same level of environmental destruction or human exploitation.
Finally, there is a difference in price between mined diamonds and laboratory-grown diamonds. Mined diamonds are generally more expensive, due to their rarity and the high costs associated with mining and extraction. Laboratory-grown diamonds, on the other hand, are often less expensive, as they can be produced in larger quantities and do not require the same level of mining and extraction.
Conclusion:
Mined diamonds and laboratory-grown diamonds both have their pros and cons. While mined diamonds are valued for their rarity and unique characteristics, they are often associated with negative environmental and social impacts. Laboratory-grown diamonds, on the other hand, are more sustainable and ethical, but may be less valuable due to their artificial origin. Ultimately, the choice between a mined diamond and a laboratory-grown diamond comes down to personal values and priorities.
HB Antwerp has announced a partnership with Botswana to foster a new generation of diamond talent.
It has signed a a five-year memorandum of understanding with the Botswana International University of Science and Technology (BIUST).
They will jointly organize traineeships for Botswanan youth, offer scholarships for promising local talent, drive innovative projects backed by digital supply chains, and create job opportunities in the diamond sector.
The move comes as Botswana threatens to walk away from its long-standing sales agreement with De Beers, which is due for renewal at the end of June.
There has been media speculation that the Okavango Diamond Company (ODC), wholly owned by the Botswana government, was planning to sell its specials (+10.8-carats) to Belgian manufacturer HB Antwerp and to Canada-based Lucara and instead of De Beers.
HB Antwerp says it promotes respect for local communities, fair labor and pay, and investment in skills training and job placement opportunities for local workers.
Rafael Papismedov, its managing partner and strategy director, said: “Young people in Africa have incredible potential, but often do not have access to meaningful opportunities.
“We believe in the power of diamonds to catalyze positive change and look forward to leveraging this partnership to deliver on that potential for the Botswanan people.”
It can be challenging to determine the exact location where a diamond was mined, but there are several ways to get an idea of its origin:
Diamond certificate: A diamond certificate or grading report from a reputable laboratory such as GIA, AGS, HRD, IGI or DCLA will provide information about the diamond’s characteristics, including its colour, clarity, and carat weight. Some certificates may also include information about the diamond’s origin or a statement that the diamond is of natural origin.
Inscription: Some diamonds may have a laser inscription on the girdle (the thin outer edge) of the diamond that identifies the diamond’s report and sometimes brand origin or other information about the diamond. The inscription is a laser inscription or a micro-inscription that can only be viewed under magnification.
Jewellers and diamond dealers: An experienced jeweller or diamond dealer may be able to provide information about the diamond’s origin based on their knowledge and experience in the industry.
Diamond tracing programs: Some diamond companies offer programs that trace the origin of their diamonds from the mine to the consumer. For example, the De Beers Group has a program called Tracr that provides a digital certificate of a diamond’s journey from mine to retailer. It’s important to note that not all diamonds can be traced to their exact origin, but the above methods can provide some information about a diamond’s potential source.
Diamonds can be found in various places around the world, but the most famous diamond sources are:
Botswana: Botswana is the world’s leading producer of diamonds by value and is responsible for about 25% of the world’s diamond supply.
Russia: Russia is the world’s largest diamond producer by volume, accounting for about 27% of global diamond production. The majority of diamonds mined in Russia come from the Yakutia region in northeastern Russia.
Canada: Canada is the world’s third-largest diamond producer, and its diamond mines are known for producing high-quality gemstones. The majority of Canada’s diamond mines are located in the Northwest Territories.
Australia: Australia is known for producing some of the world’s most valuable pink and red diamonds. The Argyle Diamond Mine in Western Australia was the world’s largest source of pink diamonds until its closure in 2020.
South Africa: South Africa is one of the earliest sources of diamonds, and the country’s Kimberley region is famous for its diamond mines. The Cullinan Diamond, the largest rough diamond ever found, was discovered in South Africa in 1905.
HRD Antwerp has sued its former Turkish partner company following allegations the Belgian laboratory had routinely “upgraded” diamonds.
The organization is in a dispute with Enstitü Istanbul Bilim Akademisi Yönetim Danışmanlığı, with which it ended a longstanding collaboration in 2021.
The messy divorce intensified last week when the Belgian press reported allegations that HRD, in 2020, had introduced a strategy of giving diamonds higher grades than other laboratories. On Wednesday, HRD said it had taken legal action against its former partners in Turkey for “damaging its business reputation.”
Belgian lawsuit
The disagreement revolves around a civil lawsuit that Enstitü Istanbul Bilim Akademisi Yönetim Danışmanlığı filed in late 2021 against HRD at an Antwerp court, according to a March 9 report by Belgian newspaper De Tijd. Investigators have also been looking into whether there was anything suspicious about the HRD’s grading methods, the report added.
Nearly six years ago, according to De Tijd, the International Diamond Council (IDC) — which the World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB) set up in the 1970s to unify diamond grading around the world — excluded HRD from its membership. In a letter to HRD’s then CEO Michel Janssens, IDC president Harry Levy wrote that it was “no longer the case” that HRD graded according to IDC rules, the newspaper reported.
By then, HRD was in a bad financial state, according to leaked internal slides that the newspaper cited. This was still the case in 2020, when another leaked document read: “With current results, HRD is out of business,” the Dutch-language report said.
In a new strategy, HRD determined that stones that already had Gemological Institute of America (GIA) reports were allowed to receive one or two color “upgrades” or one clarity “upgrade,” the report alleged. The lab was not to downgrade the diamonds unless there had been a genuine mistake, the report continued. Stones from IGI were not allowed to receive an upgrade, it said. The paper cited an internal online meeting in which Mike Davey, then director of HRD Antwerp Istanbul, shot down the policy as a “way to commit market fraud.”
In the same meeting, HRD Istanbul owner Mehmet Can Özdemir said, according to the report: “Valuing diamonds involves a certain amount of subjectivity. If things are really tight, graders can go higher or lower. But that is never about one full degree. In our scenario, we immediately jump up two.”
HRD performed an audit of its standards following the allegations and found no irregularities, its CEO, Ellen Joncheere, told Rapaport News Wednesday.
“We are in fact a bit more lenient [than the GIA] on color but stricter on cut and fluorescence, but this is known by the market,” Joncheere said.
Trademark disagreement
On Wednesday, HRD also responded with allegations that Özdemir had “made shady deals” and had used HRD’s power and reputation unfairly.
“One of the main reasons for the termination [of the partnership] was that the partners holding the management of the company did not transfer the trademark ‘HRD,’ which was unfairly registered in the name of HRD Istanbul, to the clients [HRD Antwerp], despite their previous commitments,” said Tuncay Çaltekin, HRD Antwerp’s attorney, in a statement Wednesday.
The partners also placed liens on the HRD trademark through other companies owned by their family members and transferred HRD’s assets into those companies, Çaltekin alleged. “In other words, they committed irregularities contrary to the agreement,” he claimed.
Meanwhile, Joncheere gave an interview to Belgian newspaper Het Laatste Nieuws (HLN), published Wednesday, in which she alleged there had been “tax and financial fraud” at the Turkish counterpart.
Özdemir dismissed the CEO’s claims as “pathetic, dishonest and desperate.”
De Beers’ sales fell at its February trading session as sightholders deferred demand to later in the year amid uncertain market conditions.
The second sales cycle of 2023 grossed $495 million, a drop of 24% from last year’s equivalent period, the company reported Wednesday. Sales were, however, 9% higher than January’s $454 million.
“We know that sightholders planned more of their purchases for later in 2023, given the economic uncertainty at the time they were taking their planning decisions at the end of 2022,” said Al Cook, De Beers’ new CEO. “It is also encouraging to see some positive trends in end-client demand for diamond jewelry at the start of the year.”
The total includes the company’s February sight as well as auctions. The company raised prices of its smallest diamonds for the contract sale, but mostly maintained rates for larger stones after January’s price decline, customers told Rapaport News.
De Beers’ rough revenues have fallen 28% year on year to $949 million for the first two sales cycles of 2023, according to Rapaport calculations based on the company’s sight reports.
As of 2021 the laboratory-grown diamond trade market was estimated to be worth around $1.9 billion, according to a report by Frost & Sullivan.
This market is expected to grow significantly in the coming years, with some estimates suggesting that it could reach a value of over $15 billion by 2035.
laboratory-grown diamond trade has been growing steadily in recent years. There are several factors driving this growth.
Price: Laboratory-grown diamonds are typically less expensive than natural diamonds, which makes them an attractive option for consumers who are looking for high-quality jewelry at a more affordable price.
Ethical concerns: Some consumers are hesitant to purchase natural diamonds due to concerns about ethical issues such as conflict diamonds. Laboratory-grown diamonds are considered to be a more ethical alternative, as they are produced in a controlled environment and do not have the same potential ethical issues as natural diamonds.
Environmental concerns: The process of mining natural diamonds can have a significant environmental impact. Laboratory-grown diamonds are generally considered to be more environmentally friendly, as they do not require mining.
Advancements in technology: The technology used to produce laboratory-grown diamonds has improved significantly in recent years, making it easier and more cost-effective to produce high-quality diamonds. All of these factors have contributed to the growth of the laboratory-grown diamond trade, and it is expected to continue to grow in the coming years.
The answer is not yet: It is worth noting that natural diamonds still hold a significant share of the diamond market, and it remains to be seen how much of an impact laboratory-grown diamonds will have on the industry as a whole over the next decade.
Diamond Colour is one of the 4c’s used to calculated diamond value
Polished diamond prices are derived from a variety of factors, including supply and demand, the quality and characteristics of the individual diamond, and market conditions.
The prices of polished diamonds are primarily determined by the 4Cs: carat weight, colour, clarity, and cut. These factors are assessed by gemologists and other experts who evaluate the diamond’s physical properties, such as its size, colour, clarity, and overall quality of cut.
Other factors that may influence the price of polished diamonds include the type of diamond, such as whether it is a natural or lab-grown diamond, the country of origin, and the overall market conditions for diamonds. Additionally, the reputation and credibility of the seller or the dealer can also affect the price of the polished diamond.
Overall, polished diamond prices are determined by a complex combination of factors, and can fluctuate over time based on changes in supply and demand, market conditions, and other economic and industry factors. There is no single diamond price list that accurately reflects the prices of all diamonds. This is because the price of a diamond depends on a number of factors, including its size, shape, colour, clarity, and other characteristics.
That being said, there are various industry-standard diamond price lists that are commonly used as references by professionals in the diamond trade. These lists are typically based on a standardized grading system and provide price ranges for diamonds of different sizes, shapes, and quality grades.
The most commonly used diamond price list is the Rapaport Diamond Report, which provides a benchmark price for diamonds based on their 4Cs grading (carat weight, colour, clarity, and cut). However, it is important to note that the Rapaport price list only reflects the wholesale price of diamonds and may not necessarily reflect the retail price that consumers will pay.
Other diamond price lists include the International Diamond Exchange Price List, the Idex Diamond Price Report, and the Polished Prices Diamond Index, among others. These price lists may differ in their methodologies and grading systems, and the prices they list may vary slightly from one another.
Ultimately, when buying or selling a diamond, it is important to work with a reputable and knowledgeable diamond professional who can help you evaluate the diamond’s characteristics and provide you with an accurate price estimate based on current market conditions. Source: Michael Cohen DCLA
Diamond traceability refers to the ability to track the journey of a diamond from its source to the market. This includes tracing the diamond’s origin, the path it takes through the supply chain, and the ultimate destination where it is sold to consumers.
Diamond traceability is important for a number of reasons. For one, it can help ensure the ethical and sustainable sourcing of diamonds, by allowing for greater transparency and accountability in the supply chain. This can help prevent the trade of conflict diamonds, which are used to finance armed conflict and human rights abuses. Additionally, diamond traceability can help provide assurance to consumers that the diamonds they purchase are of high quality and have been sourced responsibly.
The diamond industry has established various initiatives to promote diamond traceability, including the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme, which aims to prevent the trade of conflict diamonds, and the Responsible Jewellery Council, which sets standards for responsible sourcing practices in the industry. Additionally, some diamond producers have implemented blockchain technology to enable the secure tracking of diamonds throughout the supply chain.
Certification is another key aspect of diamond traceability. By obtaining a diamond certificate, which includes a record of the diamond’s characteristics and its journey through the supply chain, consumers can be assured that the diamond they are purchasing is of high quality and has been sourced responsibly. Overall, diamond traceability is an important aspect of the diamond industry, as it can help promote responsible sourcing practices and provide assurance to consumers about the quality and authenticity of the diamonds they purchase.
While it may not be possible for an individual to physically track a diamond from the source, certification and other industry initiatives can help ensure the ethical and sustainable sourcing of diamonds, as well as provide assurance to consumers about the quality and authenticity of the diamonds they purchase.
One technique used to determine the origin of diamonds is through the analysis of their chemical composition. Diamonds from different geographic locations can have different trace elements and isotopic compositions, which can be used to identify their origin. For example, diamonds from different mines in South Africa can have different isotopic signatures.
Another method to determine the origin of a diamond is through the use of spectroscopy, which involves analyzing the unique spectral characteristics of a diamond. This can provide clues about its origin and the geological conditions under which it formed.
It’s worth noting that while these techniques can provide clues about a diamond’s origin, they are not foolproof and may not provide a definitive answer in every case. Nonetheless, advances in technology and the diamond industry’s commitment to responsible sourcing have made it increasingly possible to track and trace diamonds from their source.
Conflict diamonds, also known as blood diamonds, are diamonds that have been mined in war zones and sold to finance armed conflict against governments. These diamonds are typically mined under inhumane conditions by workers who are often forced to work in dangerous and exploitative conditions. The profits from the sale of these diamonds are then used to fund armed conflicts, which often involve violence, human rights abuses, and forced labor. This cycle of violence and exploitation is known as the “diamond curse.” To combat the trade in conflict diamonds, the international community has established the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme, which requires that all rough diamonds be certified as conflict-free before they can be sold on the international market. The Kimberley Process has helped to significantly reduce the trade in conflict diamonds, but concerns remain about the effectiveness of the scheme and the ongoing trade in illicit diamonds.
What percentage of diamond production are conflict diamonds The percentage of diamond production that can be considered conflict or blood diamonds has decreased significantly since the introduction of the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme in 2003. According to the Kimberley Process, the percentage of conflict diamonds in the global diamond trade has fallen from approximately 15% in the 1990s to less than 1% today. However, it is important to note that some critics have raised concerns about the effectiveness of the Kimberley Process in preventing the trade in conflict diamonds. They argue that the definition of conflict diamonds used by the Kimberley Process is too narrow, and that some diamonds mined in areas of conflict may still be entering the market through illegal channels. Furthermore, there have been reports of human rights abuses and unethical practices in diamond mining in countries that are not considered conflict zones. So while the percentage of conflict diamonds in the global diamond trade is believed to be low, it is important to remain vigilant and continue efforts to ensure that all diamonds are mined and traded ethically and responsibly.
How do i ensure the diamond i buy is conflict free To ensure that the diamond you buy is conflict-free, you should look for a diamond that has been certified as such by a reputable organization. The most widely recognized certification scheme for conflict-free diamonds is the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme (KPCS), which was established in 2003 to prevent the trade in conflict diamonds. Here are some steps you can take to ensure that the diamond you buy is conflict-free:
Buy from a reputable jeweller: Look for a jeweller that is committed to selling conflict-free diamonds and has a policy in place to verify the origin of their diamonds. Many jewelers are members of organizations that promote ethical and responsible diamond sourcing, such as the Responsible Jewellery Council or the Jewelers of America.
Ask for a certificate of authenticity: Ask your jeweller for a certificate of authenticity that verifies the origin of the diamond you are interested in buying. The certificate should state that the diamond is conflict-free and has been mined and traded in compliance with the Kimberley Process.
Look for laser inscriptions: Some diamonds may have a laser inscription on the girdle that indicates the origin of the diamond and its certification number. This can be a helpful way to verify the diamond’s origin and ensure that it is conflict-free.
Consider buying a lab-grown diamond: Lab-grown diamonds are an ethical and sustainable alternative to mined diamonds. They are produced in a laboratory using advanced technology and do not have the same environmental or social impacts as mined diamonds.
By taking these steps, you can help ensure that the diamond you buy is conflict-free and has been mined and traded in a responsible and ethical manner.
