De Beers Issues Synthetics Guidelines

Lake Diamond diamond platelet

De Beers has provided its rough-diamond clients and Forevermark partners with guidelines on how to operate in the lab-grown market if they wish to continue tapping into its branding.

The mining company, which in 2018 forayed into gem-quality synthetics with the launch of its Lightbox brand, is demanding businesses make full disclosure about their product, segregate synthetics from their natural supply, and do not make unproven claims about either category. The “Statement of Principles” outlines the legal structures companies with lab-grown diamond units must have if they wish to use the sightholder logo, as well as the procedures and training they are required to implement to avoid contamination or misleading marketing.

While De Beers already had rules mandating disclosure and other best practices, the new principles “ensure there is no room for doubt” about how clients may use the sightholder logo, explained David Johnson, head of strategic communications for De Beers. Some of the rules form part of De Beers’ contract with clients, allowing the miner to penalize those who flout them, while others are only recommendations.

“We believe the principles within the document set out a responsible approach, and that they are important for ensuring people can make clear and informed choices about what they are buying,” Johnson added.

The document refers to lab-grown diamonds as “artificial” products that “do not have the same inherent, naturally occurring characteristics or enduring value” as natural diamonds. The miner continues to define diamonds as a natural mineral in line with the International Organization for Standardization (ISO).

De Beers sent the guidelines to clients earlier this month, as numerous sightholders have launched lab-grown businesses under separate entities and trading names.
The following is a summary of the guidelines:

  • De Beers customers may only use the sightholder license — including displaying the sightholder logo — for business entities that are exclusively natural-diamond businesses. Entities with both natural and lab-grown activities may not use the logo.
  • The miner recommends setting up distinct and independent businesses for any lab-grown diamond activities, with separate systems, processes and workforces.
  • The rules prohibit “false, misleading or unsubstantiated” claims about the enduring value of lab-grown diamonds, whether directed at other businesses or at consumers. They cannot state or imply that lab-grown diamonds have the “identical inherent value characteristics” as natural diamonds.
  • Similarly, unproven claims about the environmental benefits or ethical advantage of lab-grown diamonds over natural ones are forbidden.
  • Sellers must provide the buyer with full and unambiguous disclosure before the transaction is complete.
  • They’re also required to ensure segregation at all stages of the supply process, such as storage, cutting and polishing, packaging, and transportation. Ideally, suppliers should handle natural and lab-grown stones in separate sites.
  • De Beers customers must “take steps” to ensure full disclosure and segregation further along the supply chain, down to the consumer.
  • Clients must have protocols to identify and mitigate contamination risks, and train staff members on the “operational, commercial and reputational impacts” of lab-grown diamonds.
  • Preferably, companies should disclose the countries in which the synthetic diamond was grown, polished and made into jewelry, as well as the identity of the grower. De Beers says businesses should “strive” to declare this, though it’s not an absolute requirement.
  • Grading language must contain words that make it clear a stone is lab-grown.
  • Customers must follow relevant laws, regulations and best practices, such as the standards that the US Federal Trade Commission (FTC) and the ISO have published.

Source: Diamonds.net

De Beers final diamond sale of the year gives some hope to depressed market

Rough uncut diamonds. Image by De Beers.

Anglo American’s De Beers, the world’s No.1 diamond miner by value, said on Wednesday that its last roughs sale of the year fetched $425 million, a slight improvement from the $400 million it obtained in the previous tender, but still over the year a whopping $1.4 billion less than in 2018.

The figure is also 20% lower than the $544 million worth of diamonds the miner sold in December last year, and it has brought the company’s total sales for 2019 to only $4 billion.

DIAMOND GIANT SALES TOTALLED $4 BILLION THIS YEAR, A WHOPPING $1.4 BILLION LESS THAN IN 2018

The diamond giant sells its stones ten times a year in Botswana’s capital, Gaborone. The buyers, or “sightholders,” usually accept the price and the quantities offered, but in the past months they’ve been given more decision making power, with De Beers allowing them to refuse about 50% of the stones contained in the parcels.

The company has also curbed plans to expand diamond production over the next two years and reduced prices for low-quality stones as much as 10%, in yet another sign of increasing volatility at the bottom end of the market.

Cheaper diamonds, which are often small and low quality, have been selling for significantly less now than six years ago due to an unforeseen oversupply that has weighed on prices and producers’ bottom lines.

The situation, some key actors say, is about to change, as the first signs of stabilization in the sector are starting to appear.


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	Pressure has been piled on the industry by a supply glut of rough diamonds and competition from lab grown stones, while unrest in Hong Kong and the US-China trade dispute have knocked demand.
Source Bain & Company.

“Following continued polished diamond price stability in the lead up to the final sales cycle of the year, we saw further signs of steady demand for rough diamonds during Sight 10,” De Beers chief executive officer, Bruce Cleaver, said in the statement.

His perception is shared by Russian competitor Alrosa (MCX:ALRS), which last week said it had “evidence” that prices for a variety of diamond products edged higher in October and November. The world’s top diamond producer by output  also noted that prospects for de-stocking were “more visible.”

Source Bain & Company.

Industry consultant Bain & Co., however, believes that while the glut that’s depressing the diamond market will probably be cleared early next year, it will take at least another 12 months for the market to fully recover.

“The industry’s first and strongest opportunity to rebalance and regain growth will be 2021,” said Bain in a report, adding that supply could fall 8% that year. 

Source: mining.com

De Beers boosted by jump in diamond sales

De Beers diamonds

De Beers has surprised analysts by selling more diamonds than expected at its latest sale.

The world’s largest diamond producer, which is owned by Anglo American, sold $390m of rough stone this month, compared with $297m at its previous sale in October and above market expectations of around $300m.

“The company has attributed this rebound in sales to signs of increasing polished price stability leading to improving sentiment from rough diamond buyers,” said analysts at Citi.

However, the latest “sight” marks the first time De Beers has sold less than $400m of diamonds in November since 2016, illustrating the tough conditions in the diamond industry.

Diamond buyers, who polish and cut gems for retailers, have been struggling to make money this year as the price of finished stones has slumped. That has forced De Beers to offer more flexible terms to buyers, something that continued in November.

At the same time, the industry is facing competition from lab-grown diamonds, which are chemically identical to traditional stones.

“Global consumer demand for diamond jewellery at the retail level continues to be broadly stable but with midstream trading conditions still in the process of rebalancing, we offered sightholders further flexibility during the sight to provide support,” said De Beers chief executive Bruce Cleaver in a statement

Citi expects rough diamond sales to fall 23 per cent to $4.3bn this year. De Beers is expected to generate around 10 per cent of Anglo’s earnings in 2019.

Source: FT.com

De Beers Lets Clients Delay Rough Purchases

De Beers sorting

De Beers loosened its purchasing requirements for rough buyers at last week’s sight in an effort to ease the oversupply affecting the diamond market.

Sightholders have struggled to reduce their inventories due to an imbalance of stocks and weak polished demand. To tackle the problem, De Beers allowed its customers to defer purchases from the July sight to other sales later this year, a spokesperson confirmed Thursday.

De Beers’ long-term sales program compels customers to show certain levels of demand at sights, which take place 10 times a year in Botswana. They are free to push off buying one box per “band” (selection of goods) per half year, but only from one sight to the next. However, at last week’s sale, sightholders were able to make an extra deferral, and could also delay to later in the year, not just by one sight.

In addition, the company has brought forward sightholders’ annual opportunity to reschedule their purchases, known as “re-phasing.” This year, that will occur after the July sight, the sixth of the year, whereas it’s normally scheduled for the eighth sight.

De Beers’ revenue and profit fell in the first half, as a buildup of excess polished goods in the midstream and retail sectors hit rough demand, the company explained last week in its half-year earnings. A price reduction at the June sight helped sightholders deal with the weak profitability they are facing, De Beers chief financial officer Nimesh Patel told Rapaport News Thursday.

The miner also lowered its production forecast to 31 million carats for this year, compared with an earlier outlook of 31 million to 33 million carats, Patel noted. Output in 2018 was 35.3 million carats.

Holding back rough

The combination of lower production and prices, together with increased purchasing flexibility, should tackle the “short-term” crisis, Patel predicted. The company also experienced a “meaningful increase” in its own rough inventories during the first half because it held back rough, he said.

“We’ve clearly reacted in terms of price, so we’ve injected profitability back into goods,” the executive said. “Secondly, we’ve reacted in terms of production…. Alongside that, we’re working with our customers to offer them more flexibility in the way they purchase, so [we’ve introduced] re-sequencing of the timing of their purchases of goods through the course of the year, which is something that we’ve allowed [them] to do, and we’ve added to that additional referrals as well. All those things will see us through this difficult period.”

The problems come from within the diamond industry rather than from outside: Growth in global gross domestic product supports consumer demand for diamond jewelry in the long term, Patel said. The US retail market is increasing, while sales in China and India are also rising in local currencies, he observed.

However, weak fourth-quarter holiday sales in 2018 and shaky consumer demand in the first half has made it difficult for the industry to offload polished stocks to retailers, Patel said. Consumers’ shift away from lower-end shopping malls has forced some companies to close stores and liquidate their goods, he added. Furthermore, retailers’ increased reliance on consignment has raised inventory risks for the midstream, as failure to make a final sale often forces suppliers to resend jewelry items to a different client, or to dismantle and remanufacture the jewelry, he explained.

“That doesn’t help the midstream in terms of sell-through,” he noted.

Yet the near future is positive because the issues are “specific to the balance of stocks in the midstream and the downstream,” Patel argued. “It’s a function of that excess polished as it sits today…just working its way through the system. As that happens, we should see polished prices perform better [and] rough demand return.”

Source: Diamonds.net

2H Slump Dents De Beers Sales Volume

Victor mine Canada De Beers

De Beers’ sales volume fell 4% last year due to weakened demand for lower value diamonds in the second half.

The miner sold 33.7 million carats of rough, compared with 35.1 million carats in 2017, as clients bought fewer of its cheaper stones, it reported Thursday.

De Beers’ average price for sales excluding some sales by its joint-venture partners rose 6% to $171 per carat for the year, reflecting the larger proportion of higher-value goods. As a result, rough-sales value increased 2% to $5.39 billion for 2018, according to Rapaport estimates based on De Beers’ sight reports. The company’s average price index, which tracks its rough prices on a like-for-like basis, declined 1% in the second half, but ended 2018 up 1% versus the previous year.

Production grew 6% to 35.3 million carats, exceeding sales volume.

Sales jumped 21% to 9.9 million carats in the fourth quarter, with revenues also increasing, as the company allowed sightholders to defer purchases from the September sight to later months. Production grew 12% to 9.1 million carats for the quarter.

Source: Diamonds.net

De Beers’ recent diamonds sale the worst in two years

de beers sight

Anglo American’s De Beers, the world’s No.1 diamond miner by value, has just had the lowest sales for its seventh cycle since it began releasing data in 2016, as it let customers delay acquiring smaller stones for the first time.

Sales for the cycle stood at a provisional $505 million, down 5.5% from the $533 million obtained in the previous cycle of the year and 0.4% from $507 million for same period in 2017.

“De Beers Group provided Sightholders with the opportunity to re-phase the allocation of some smaller, lower value rough diamonds.” chief executive officer, Bruce Cleaver, acknowledged in the statement.

The unusual move (De Beers is known for requiring buyers to take what’s offered) says lots about the state of the low-end diamond market. The last time the company did something similar, in fact, was two years ago, when India’s move to ban high-value currency notes pushed down demand.

Sales were down $134 million or 21% compared to the same cycle in 2016, when De Beers began releasing this kind of data.The diamond giant has about 80 handpicked clients called sightholders who are allocated parcels of diamonds sorted and aggregated in Gaborone. The 10 annual sales events are known as sights.

De Beers’ new strategy for small stones, paired with its looming entry into the lab-grown stones market, have many in the industry worrying about prices.

Cheaper diamonds, which are often small and low quality, are selling for a lot less now than five years ago. And when it comes to synthetic stones, De Beers’ entry in the market will create a big price gap between mined and lab diamonds, pressuring rivals that specialize in synthesized stones at the same time.

A 1-carat man-made diamond sells for about $4,000 and a similar natural diamond fetches roughly $8,000. De Beers new lab diamonds will sell for about $800 a carat. That’s a fifth of the price of existing man-made stones and one-tenth of the cost of buying a similar natural gem.

No wonder competitors are worried. The lab-grown industry has filed a complaint with the U.S. Federal Trade Commission, accusing De Beers of price dumping and predatory pricing.

Low sales, stable demand

In 2016, De Beers recorded sales of $639 million for the seventh of its tenth annual sales events. That is $134 million or 21% more than what it just made after letting buyers reject small, low-quality stones. That means that, to date, 2018 is shaping to be the worst in terms of sales for the Beers in the past two years, with combined sales of $3.93 billion against the previous year’s $4 billion and 2016’s sales of $4.12 billion.

The dip is sales comes despite demand has remained stable ahead of the Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair, at least according to what Cleaver said. The exhibit, which takes place from Friday this week to Tuesday next week, last year reportedly attracted 3,695 exhibitors and 59,122 buyers.

Source: mining.com

De Beers, Botswana Prep for New Sales Deal

De Beers Botswana

Botswana once again finds itself at a crossroads. The sparsely populated, landlocked country is in a constant battle to ensure the longevity of its diamond industry.

Recognizing that diamond mining will not last forever, the government’s beneficiation program has sought to establish cutting and polishing, trading, and auxiliary services in an effort to diversify its industry — and economy — away from its reliance on the mining sector.

Beyond mining

De Beers, which counts around 59% of its production by value in Botswana, has played no small part in that effort. It did so initially by earmarking a part of its rough supply to be manufactured in Botswana, and today there are 18 sightholders with factories in the country. In 2013, De Beers moved its sales headquarters to Gaborone, meaning that its 10 annual sights were taken out of London, thus diverting traffic and diamond-related activity to the African city.

Furthermore, the establishment of the parastatal Okavango Diamond Company that same year gave the government access to 15% of production by Debswana, its joint mining venture with De Beers. That was the first time substantial rough sales from Debswana took place outside of the De Beers system.

The 2011 agreement that governed those developments is up for renewal in 2020, and negotiations are expected to begin in the coming year. For its part, the government is seeking to increase supply to local sightholders as a means of creating more jobs, newly elected President Mokgweetsi Masisi told Bloomberg in May.

Some question whether Botswana can handle more manufacturing, given that a few factories have closed in recent years. If profitability remains the biggest challenge facing manufacturers, Gaborone has yet to prove itself as a viable center for high-volume cutting. Perhaps De Beers can play a further role there, too.

The government will also likely want to increase the percentage of Debswana supply that Okavango receives. And it might want to renegotiate greater access to the large and high-value diamonds Debswana recovers.

Digging deep

Botswana has some leverage in the relationship with De Beers. It owns a 15% stake in the group, with Anglo American holding the remaining 85%. And the two are equal partners in Debswana and in DTC Botswana, which sorts and mixes production for De Beers and Okavango.

De Beers, meanwhile, brings to the table its mining expertise and budget. In 2010, it committed to investing $3 billion over 15 years in the Cut-8 expansion of the Jwaneng mine — considered the world’s most valuable diamond-producing asset.

That project is already the main source of ore at Jwaneng and is expected to  extend the life of mine to 2030 and by some 93 million carats. Studies for the viability of Cut-9 are under way, which would further extend the life of Jwaneng. A final investment decision on the project is expected later this year, reports a De Beers spokesperson.

De Beers could use the potential Cut-9 investment, as well as funding extensions at the Orapa and Letlhakane mines, as a bargaining tool in negotiations with the government.

African investments

De Beers walks a similarly fine line in other African countries where it operates.

In South Africa, it may have to reduce ownership of its local businesses from 74% to 70% under the new mining charter, as the government wants to see more local black economic empowerment (BEE) involvement. That said, De Beers is engaged in a $2 billion project to develop underground mining at the Venetia asset. From next year, Venetia will be its only mine in South Africa, as it plans to close the Voorspoed mine. It has already sold the Finsch, Cullinan and Kimberley operations over the past decade.

Meanwhile, in May 2016, De Beers signed a 10-year sales agreement with Namibia, in which it ceded 15% of local supply to the government and promised more diamonds to local cutters. The company subsequently announced major investments in its marine mining operations off the Namibian coast.

It’s that give-and-take that Masisi is hoping will result in a “win-win” for both parties as they negotiate their next long-term deal — especially given that so much of Botswana’s future diamond production depends on Jwaneng’s expansion.

“We have had a wonderful relationship with De Beers, and we expect that relationship to be even more cemented,” the president told Bloomberg in May. “The returns [from the Jwaneng development] are going to be realized in the period of the next deal. This is a marriage we’re after.”

This article was first published in the July issue of Rapaport Magazine.

De Beers to Sell Diamonds Made in a Lab

De Beers to Sell Diamonds Made in a Laboratory

De Beers, which almost single handedly created the allure of diamonds as rare, expensive and the symbol of eternal love, now wants to sell you some party jewelry that is anything but.

The company announced today that it will start selling man-made diamond jewelry at a fraction of the price of mined gems, marking a historic shift for the world’s biggest diamond miner, which vowed for years that it wouldn’t sell stones created in laboratories. The strategy is designed to undercut rival lab-diamond makers, who having been trying to make inroads into the $80 billion gem industry.

De Beers will target younger spenders with its new diamond brand and try to capture customers that have been resistant to splurging on expensive jewelry. The company is betting that it can split the market with mined gems in luxury settings and engagement rings at the top, and lab-made fashion jewelry aimed at millennials at the bottom.

“Lab grown are not special, they’re not real, they’re not unique. You can make exactly the same one again and again,” Bruce Cleaver, chief executive officer of De Beers, said in an interview Tuesday.

Unlike imitation gems such as cubic zirconia, diamonds grown in labs have the same physical characteristics and chemical makeup as mined stones. They’re made from a carbon seed placed in a microwave chamber and superheated into a glowing plasma ball. The process creates particles that can eventually crystallize into diamonds in weeks. The technology is so advanced that experts need a machine to distinguish between synthesized and mined gems.

A host of lab-grown diamond makers and retailers have sprung up in recent years. Diamond Foundry, one of the biggest producers, grows diamonds in a California laboratory and has been backed by Leonardo DiCaprio. Warren Buffett’s Helzberg’s Diamond Shops Inc. also sells the stones.

Customers are currently “confused” by the difference between mined and lab-produced diamonds, Cleaver said. De Beers is hoping to create big price gap with its new product, which will sell under the name Lightbox in the U.S. A 1-carat man-made diamond sells for about $4,000 and a similar natural diamond fetches roughly $8,000. The lab diamonds from De Beers will sell for about $800 a carat.

Lowest Cost

Still, De Beers says that its move isn’t to disrupt existing lab-diamond producers, but create a small, profitable business in its own right.

“Given we are the lowest-cost producer, we can make a good business out of this,” Cleaver said. “We have the tools, why wouldn’t we do this?”

De Beers is so adamant that the man-made diamonds are not competing with mined stones that it will not grade them in the traditional way. That’s a stark contrast to current man-made sellers who offer ratings such as clarity and color, replicating terminology used for natural stones.

“We’re not grading our lab-grown diamonds because we don’t think they deserve to be graded,” Cleaver said. “They’re all the same.”

The pricing strategy will also be different. De Beers plans to charge $200 for a quarter-carat, $400 for a half and $800 for a carat, another sharp break from natural stones that rise exponentially in price the bigger the diamond gets.

Man-Made Gems

While De Beers has never sold man-made diamonds for jewelry before, it’s very good at making them. The company’s Element Six unit is one of the world’s leading producers of synthetic diamonds, which are mostly used for industrial purposes. It has also been producing gem-quality stones for years to help it tell the difference between natural and man-made types and to reassure consumers that they’re buying the real thing.

Man-made gems currently make up a small part of the diamond market, but demand is increasing. Global diamond production was about 142 million carats last year, according to analyst Paul Zimnisky. That compares with lab production of less than 4.2 million carats, according to Bonas & Co.

De Beers has been researching lab-made diamonds since the end of World War II and accelerated its work after a Swedish company synthesized the first diamond in 1953. The company has focused on lab diamonds for industrial uses, but also kept investing in technology for jewelry-grade gems.

The shift to lab-diamond jewelry comes at a sensitive time for De Beers and its relationship with Botswana, the source of three quarters of its diamonds. The two have a sales agreement that lets the company market and sell gems from Botswana, giving De Beers its power over global prices. The deal will soon be up for negotiation and Botswana is likely to push for more concessions.

On Tuesday, De Beers said it had extensive talks with Botswana about the decision to sell man-made diamonds and the country supports the move.

Source: bloomberg.com

Rosy Blue to Buy Stake in Leo Schachter

Leo Schachter diamonds

Polished manufacturer Rosy Blue has agreed to acquire a minority share in Leo Schachter, as the diamond suppliers seek to make their operations more efficient.

The deal will enable the firms to use each other’s infrastructure around the world, providing better value for their clients, Leo Schachter said in a statement Monday. Leo Schachter will still operate independently under the Schachter family’s majority ownership, led by its current management team, it noted.

The firms expect the transaction to close soon, but did not disclose other terms of the agreement.

“The relationship and collaboration which we have enjoyed with the Rosy Blue family for over two generations will produce a unique and innovative platform for the demands of today’s diamond industry,” said Elliot Tannenbaum, principal at Leo Schachter.

The companies have been working together for more than 30 years, Leo Schachter noted. They both receive rough supply from De Beers, as sightholders, and from Alrosa’s contract-sales business, and have offices in all major industry hubs.

Source: Diamonds.net

Israel Gives $284M Boost to Diamond Trade

Israel diamonds

The Israeli government has pledged $284 million (NIS 1 billion) to guarantee bank loans to diamond companies in an effort to ease the trade’s severe credit difficulties.

A lack of credit is stifling growth, especially among the smaller firms that constitute about 70% of the Israeli trade, according to a special committee set up to investigate the sector’s challenges.

The team — led by Naama Kaufman-Pass, deputy director-general of the nation’s Ministry of Economy and Industry — released its findings earlier this month, highlighting several ways in which the industry had hit a crisis.

Banks’ perception of the diamond sector as high-risk has led to a decline in total lending to the Israeli trade from $2.5 billion in 2008 to about $1 billion last year, the committee said in its report. Financial institutions are also refusing to accept dealers’ inventory as collateral, while competition from India and Belgium has added further damage to Israel’s market position.

To this end, the government fund will back companies’ borrowing, meaning that if they fail to repay a loan to a bank, the state will pay. While the committee submitted the policy to Eli Cohen, minister of industry and economy, as a recommendation, the lawmaker said the government was set to go ahead with the program.

“We have decided to allocate another billion shekels over the next five years to the diamond sector through credit guarantees,” Cohen told an audience at the International Diamond Week in Israel last week.

In addition, the committee suggested the government provide money for the bourse’s newly launched innovation laboratory, put cash into bringing more diamond buyers to Israel, support efforts to develop e-commerce opportunities, and contribute to other projects to boost the industry.

“The committee identified the main hurdles in small businesses’ activities in the sector, and its recommendations offer a comprehensive response to its needs,” Kaufman-Pass said.

The diamond trade is an important segment of the Israeli economy, representing about 13% of total exports, and employing about 9,500 people, according to the report. However, the 2008 global financial crash led to a 27% slump in Israel’s polished-diamond exports between that year and 2016, with the Chinese market slump in 2015 also denting demand.

“Implementing the committee’s conclusions, alongside other steps, is essential, considering the crisis the sector has been through,” Cohen added in a statement. “Their purpose is to provide new tools to help deal with challenges in the trade and to ease regulation, thereby growing both production and exports.”

Shay Rinsky, director-general of the Ministry of Economy and Industry, set up the committee in September to delve into issues of credit and growth in the diamond trade and examine how to bring the industry forward.

Source: diamonds.net