brilliance – The Diamond Certification Laboratory of Australia (DCLA)

The diamond make refers to the overall quality of the cut of a diamond, evaluating how well it has been shaped and finished. This includes an assessment of the proportions, symmetry, and polish of the diamond, all of which contribute to its brilliance, fire, and scintillation (the sparkle of the diamond). The make plays a crucial role in determining the diamond’s visual appeal and its overall value. A well-cut diamond will exhibit optimal light performance, making it appear vibrant and full of life.

Key Aspects of Diamond Make
Proportions:

The proportions of a diamond are crucial to its overall make. This refers to the specific dimensions of the diamond, including the depth, table, crown angle, pavilion angle, and the girdle. The proportions must be balanced in such a way that they allow for the ideal reflection and refraction of light, maximising the diamond’s brilliance.
Ideal Proportions: For a round brilliant cut diamond, the ideal proportions ensure that light entering the diamond is properly reflected and refracted, bouncing around the facets before exiting through the crown and creating sparkle.
Poor Proportions: A diamond with poor proportions will either leak light out from the bottom (leading to a dark, dull appearance) or fail to reflect light properly (causing a lifeless look).
Symmetry:

Symmetry refers to the precision and alignment of the facets in a diamond. A well-symmetrical diamond ensures that each facet is positioned correctly to reflect light at the right angles. For round brilliant cuts, symmetry affects how well the facets align to create the signature sparkle. Any asymmetry, such as off-centre facets or mismatched angles, will interfere with the flow of light and negatively impact the diamond’s overall performance.
Ideal Symmetry: A diamond with excellent symmetry will display uniformity across all facets, contributing to a balanced distribution of light and a consistent sparkle.
Poor Symmetry: A diamond with poor symmetry may display uneven facets, which can affect the visual appearance and reduce its brilliance.
Polish:

Polish refers to the smoothness and finish of the diamond’s surfaces, including the crown, pavilion, and girdle. A well-polished diamond allows light to pass through smoothly, enhancing its brilliance and preventing light from being blocked by rough or uneven surfaces.
Ideal Polish: Diamonds with excellent polish will have a smooth, flawless surface that reflects light optimally. There will be no visible abrasions, scratches, or imperfections on the surface.
Poor Polish: If the diamond is poorly polished, the surface may have visible blemishes, which can distort the light and detract from the diamond’s overall sparkle.
Cut Grade:

The cut grade is a composite evaluation that includes the proportions, symmetry, and polish of the diamond. Diamond grading laboratories, such as the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), assign cut grades that range from Excellent to Poor based on these factors. A diamond with an excellent cut will showcase ideal proportions, symmetry, and polish, leading to superior brilliance and fire.
Ideal Cut: A diamond with an ideal cut is precisely shaped to reflect light in the most efficient way, maximising its brilliance and visual appeal.
Good/Very Good Cut: These diamonds may have minor deviations from ideal proportions or symmetry, but they still exhibit strong light performance.
Fair/Poor Cut: These diamonds have significant deviations from the ideal, which can lead to dull or lifeless appearances.
Impact of Diamond Make on Light Performance
The make of a diamond directly influences how light is handled by the stone. When light enters a diamond, it travels through the crown and pavilion before exiting, either through the top (creating brilliance) or dispersing into a spectrum of colours (creating fire). The cut quality determines how well this light is managed and returned to the observer’s eye.

Brilliance:

A diamond’s brilliance is the amount of white light it reflects. A well-cut diamond with excellent proportions and symmetry will reflect light efficiently, leading to a bright and lively appearance.
Fire:

Fire refers to the dispersion of light into a spectrum of colours, similar to a rainbow. Diamonds with an excellent make will show vibrant flashes of colour, enhancing the overall beauty and desirability of the stone.
Scintillation:

Scintillation refers to the flashes of light seen when the diamond moves. A well-cut diamond will exhibit a high degree of scintillation, making it appear sparkling and dynamic as it shifts in the light.
Importance of Diamond Make in Valuation
The make of a diamond significantly affects its value. Diamonds with excellent makes are highly sought after and are often priced higher because they exhibit superior light performance and visual appeal. In contrast, diamonds with poor makes may be priced lower due to their less-than-optimal appearance.

High-Quality Make: Diamonds with excellent cuts, symmetry, and polish will be more valuable due to their superior brilliance, fire, and scintillation. These diamonds are also more desirable to consumers, who often seek the most visually stunning stones.

Low-Quality Make: Diamonds with poor cuts, imbalanced proportions, or visible imperfections on the surface will likely be less valuable. These diamonds do not reflect light as efficiently, resulting in a duller appearance and lower demand in the market.

Life in a diamond refers to the vivid, dynamic quality that gives the diamond its captivating brilliance, dispersion, and scintillation. It is the essence of what makes a diamond sparkle and appear alive under different lighting conditions. While many factors contribute to the overall aesthetic of a diamond, the concept of “life” encompasses how the diamond interacts with light, its ability to reflect and refract light, and the visual impact it has on the viewer.

Key Components of Life in a Diamond
The term “life” is a combination of three key optical phenomena that work together to create the diamond’s stunning visual effects. These include brilliance, dispersion, and scintillation:

Brilliance:

Brilliance refers to the amount of white light that is reflected from the surface and the facets of a diamond. It is a measure of how much light is returned to the viewer’s eye, creating a sparkling, bright effect.
The quality of brilliance depends heavily on the cut of the diamond. Well-cut diamonds with optimal proportions and angles will exhibit the maximum amount of brilliance. When a diamond is cut properly, the light entering through the top is reflected back through the table and facets, creating an intense, white sparkle.
Dispersion:

Dispersion, also known as “fire,” is the effect that occurs when light is split into its constituent colours as it passes through the diamond. This creates the colourful flashes of light that you often see in high-quality diamonds, particularly in sunlight or bright lighting.
The greater the dispersion, the more the diamond will show a rainbow of colours, enhancing its visual beauty. A well-cut diamond will maximise the effect of dispersion, allowing it to reflect the full spectrum of visible light.
Scintillation:

Scintillation refers to the flashes of light and sparkle that appear as the diamond moves. These flashes are the result of light being reflected off the facets of the diamond as it is tilted or rotated.
The more facets a diamond has, and the better its proportions, the greater the scintillation effect. A diamond with excellent scintillation will have a lively, dynamic sparkle, even when viewed from different angles or when moved slightly.
The Role of Cut in Life
The cut of a diamond is the most significant factor influencing its life. The cut determines how well a diamond interacts with light, affecting its brilliance, dispersion, and scintillation. An ideal cut maximises all of these attributes by ensuring that light enters, reflects, and exits the diamond in the most efficient manner possible.

Proportions and Symmetry: Proper proportions and symmetry are critical in the cut of the diamond. A well-cut diamond ensures that the angles of the facets are aligned in such a way that light is properly reflected and refracted, leading to maximum brilliance and fire.

Polish: The quality of the diamond’s polish also impacts its life. A poorly polished diamond may have rough surfaces that cause light to scatter unevenly, reducing brilliance and fire. On the other hand, a well-polished diamond will allow light to enter and exit smoothly, enhancing its sparkle.

Why Life Matters in a Diamond
Visual Appeal: The “life” of a diamond is what attracts the eye and creates the allure that diamonds are known for. The more vibrant and sparkling a diamond appears, the more attractive it will be to the observer. Life adds depth and dimension to the diamond, making it look stunning from all angles.

Value: A diamond with excellent life is often more valuable because it is more visually striking. Diamonds that display higher levels of brilliance, dispersion, and scintillation tend to be more desirable, thus commanding higher prices in the market.

Emotional Impact: A diamond’s life can evoke emotions, especially when it is worn in jewellery such as engagement rings or necklaces. The way a diamond sparkles and shifts with the light can symbolise significant moments or memories, making the emotional value of the stone even greater.

Evaluating Life in a Diamond
When purchasing or evaluating a diamond, the life is an essential consideration. However, unlike colour, clarity, and carat weight, “life” is a more subjective aspect of the diamond. It is not usually quantified on a grading scale, but instead evaluated based on its visual impact.

Lighting Conditions: The effect of life can vary depending on the lighting environment. A diamond might look stunning in natural sunlight, but may appear less lively under low or artificial lighting. For this reason, it’s important to view diamonds in different lighting conditions to fully appreciate their brilliance and fire.

Personal Preference: Life in a diamond can also be subjective based on individual preferences. Some people prefer a diamond with a more intense sparkle, while others may appreciate a subtler effect. Different cuts, such as round brilliant or cushion cut, will exhibit life in unique ways.

Life in the Diamond Industry
Marketing and Presentation: In the diamond industry, life plays a significant role in marketing. Diamonds with exceptional brilliance and sparkle are often highlighted as being “extraordinarily lively,” creating a sense of awe and desire among potential buyers. This makes life an important selling point in the jewellery market.

Technology and Innovations: Advances in cutting technology have greatly improved the life of diamonds. Modern cutting machines allow for greater precision in shaping diamonds, leading to cuts that maximise light reflection and enhance the diamond’s overall beauty. Additionally, the use of advanced techniques such as laser cutting ensures that diamonds have more symmetrical and finely polished facets, resulting in a greater display of life.