Five GIA Labs Resume Operations

A diamond grader in a GIA lab

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has reopened laboratories in five locations following COVID-19 shutdowns.

The organization’s labs in Johannesburg and Tokyo recommenced limited operations on May 7, the GIA said Monday. Visitors to the Johannesburg lab must make an appointment, have a permit, and wear a mask. The Tokyo location will accept and return goods by delivery only.

On May 11, the GIA resumed operations at its locations in Antwerp and in Gaborone, Botswana. While Antwerp is receiving customers by appointment only, Gaborone is open with a limited capacity to comply with government mandates and allow for proper social distancing, the GIA noted. The lab in Carlsbad, California, reopened May 18, with submission of goods only accepted by shipment.

Labs in Bangkok, Hong Kong and Ramat Gan, Israel, are all open, and are operating with regular hours. Operations in Mumbai, Surat and New York remain closed.

“Our first priority is to protect the health and safety of all staff, clients and visitors,” said Tom Moses, the GIA’s executive vice president and chief research and laboratory officer. “As we work to meet our clients’ needs whenever and wherever possible, we are planning for the safe opening of all other GIA locations as soon as conditions and government authorities permit.”

Source: Diamonds.net

Pink Prices set to Rise with Closure of Argyle

Argyle Enigma, 1.75 cts

The price of super-rare pink diamonds is to set to rocket with the forthcoming closure of the Argyle mine in Western Australia, which has been responsible for 90 per cent of world supplies.

Owners Rio Tinto plan to cease production by the end of 2020, when economically-viable reserves will run out.
The value of pink diamonds sold at its annual tenders has been appreciating by an average of 10 per annually over the last couple of decades, outperforming all major equity markets. They are a magnet for collectors and investors.
That growth in value is likely to accelerate when Argyle closes, after 37 years in which it became known as the world’s largest supplier of natural colored diamonds – including white, champagne, cognac, blue and violet – as well and the rare and highly-coveted Argyle pinks and reds.
Last year Hong Kong-based Kunming Diamonds bought the Argyle Pink Everlastings Collection comprising smaller Argyle pink and red diamonds totaling 211 carats.

The company’s director Harsh Maheshwari told the South China Morning Post newspaper last week that the price of Argyle Pinks had been insulated even from COVID-19 because of their rarity and the closure of the mine.
Russian miner Alrosa aims to fill some of the gap left in the market but won’t match Argyle’s production.  

Source: IDEX

Omega Ladies’ Speedmaster 38 Now Glitters In Gold With Diamonds

Omega Speedmaster 38 in gold with diamonds

Omega’s cult-status Speedmaster is one of the world’s most famous sports watches, along with the iconic Rolex Daytona and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. Every once in awhile, Omega invites women to enjoy the iconic Speedy with a 38 mm size, and now, for the first time, there is a full gold version of the 38, with diamond options.

There are 90 diamonds set into the outer bezel of the Omega Speedmaster 38 in 18k Sedna gold.
There are 90 diamonds set into the outer bezel of the Omega Speedmaster 38 in 18k Sedna gold. OMEGA

The smaller size is still a sports watch. It retains the model’s familiar tri-compax dial, with small seconds at 9 o’clock and chronograph minutes and hours at 3 and 6 o’clock, but now the subdials are oval shaped. Omega also manages to preserve the signature tachymeter scale, despite setting the bezel with diamonds, by placing it on an aluminum half-bezel just inside the gem-set ring. For those who don’t want the 90-diamond bezel option, it’s also available without gems.

The Omega Speedmaster 38 in 18k yellow gold with 90 diamonds set into the outer bezel.
The Omega Speedmaster 38 in 18k yellow gold with 90 diamonds set into the outer bezel. OMEGA

There are two models, one in 18k Sedna gold, Omega’s proprietary red gold alloy with copper for the warm color and palladium for extra strength. The half-bezel on the red gold model is “cappuccino,” a color introduced on a similar 38 mm model two years ago in steel. The hands and arrowhead index markers are also gold, and the strap is beige. The second model is 18k yellow gold with a green half-bezel and green strap.

The caseback is engraved with the Speedmaster’s iconic Seahorse insignia.
The caseback is engraved with the Speedmaster’s iconic Seahorse insignia. OMEGA

The movement is the same elite caliber used in larger Speedmaster and Seamaster models, the Co-Axial 3330, an automatic movement with a 54-hour power reserve. You can’t see it because the caseback is closed, but what you can see back there is an engraving of the Speedmaster’s iconic Seahorse, also called the Omega Hippocampus. In Greek mythology, the hippocampi were sea monsters with the heads of horses and the lower bodies of fish. 

Ernie Blom Wins First Round of WFDB Court Fight

ernie-blom

Ernie Blom has won the first stage of a legal battle against the World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB), from which he stepped down as president last month. 

A court has threatened the WFDB with a $27m fine if it complies with a request to suspend him as a bourse member.
Mr Blom challenged the right of the WFDB to have him banned from one of its member bourses, the Dubai Diamond Exchange (DDE).
A commercial court in Antwerp has now made an interim ruling that prohibits the WFDB from having him suspended or excluded from the DDE, pending a further hearing.


Mr Blom, a diamond trader based in South Africa, clashed with the WFDB, of which he was long-standing president after a business disagreement. 
He insisted that the dispute resolution committee of the DDE did not have international jurisdiction to rule in a dispute between his two companies and three plaintiffs – Angel Diamonds, KMA Diamonds and Diampex –  in December 2019. 


He’d been ordered to pay $331,500 but refused to comply and initiated legal proceedings. As a result, in February 2020 the DDE announced it was suspending him.


It then asked WFDB to tell all 29 member bourses of the suspension.
But Mr Blom responded via his attorney, claiming the DDE had violated its own statutes as he had NOT in fact been formally suspended.
On 17 April Mr Blom announced that he was stepping down temporarily as president of the WFDB, a position he’d held since 2012, ahead of a court hearing that took place in Antwerp on 5 May.


At the time  Marc De Block, his Belgian lawyer, said: “While the DDE is well aware to have committed very grave errors against my client, and even explicitly acknowledged this, they stubbornly refuse to correct such actions.”
In its 12-page judgement, the court concludes that Mr Blom’s claims are admissible and well-founded.


It “prohibits the WFDB from having Mr Ernest Blom posted throughout the world as a suspended or excluded member of the Dubai Diamond Exchange (Diamond Bourse in Dubai) to all its members until such time as  a final judgement has been handed down on the merits of the case against WFDB.”
It goes on to warn the WFDB that it faces a penalty of 25m Euro ($27m) if it fails to comply.

Source: IDEXonline

28 Carat Diamond Could Fetch $2 Million At Christie’s Online Auction

28.86 carat diamond ring

Christie’s is offering the largest D-color diamond to be sold at an online auction. What may be more important is that this sale could establish a new way of selling statement diamonds and gems.

A 28.86 carat, D color, VVS1 clarity diamond is the top lot at Christie’s Jewels Online sale, June 16 – 20. Its estimate is $1 million – $2 million, making it the highest valued lot ever offered for sale online at Christie’s.

With live auctions closed in response to the coronavirus pandemic, auction houses have turned to its already robust infrastructure of online auctions and it has paid off for the two largest auction houses, Christie’s and Sotheby’s, with sell-through rates well above 90 percent and many items surpassing estimates. However, what is being sold is limited to signed and unsigned period jewels at lower values than what are normally sold at live auctions.

Lucapa finds 171-carat diamond at Angola mine

Gem-quality 171 carat white diamond found at Lulo.

Lucapa Diamond has recovered a 171 carat gem-quality stone from its prolific Lulo mine in Angola, which was restarted in early May.

The miner said the white diamond is the 15th 100-plus carat it has recovered to date from Lulo and the second 100-plus carat precious rock found in 2020.

The diamond was recovered from mining block six, where five other 100-plus carat diamonds had been previously unearthed.

Mining blocks six and eight have now produced 13 of the 15 100 plus carat diamonds recovered at Lulo, Lucapa said. This includes Angola’s largest recorded gem, which is a 404 carat diamond sold in 2016 for $16 million.

The miner has a 40% stake in the Lulo mine, which hosts the world’s highest dollar-per-carat alluvial diamonds. The rest is held by Angola’s national diamond company (Endiama) and Rosas & Petalas, a private entity.

Angola is the world’s fifth diamond producer by value and no.6 by volume. Its industry, which began a century ago under Portuguese colonial rule, is successfully being liberalized.

Last year, the country held its first public diamond auction and since then, producers no longer have to sell at below-market prices to a handful of buyers favoured by the state.

Endiama recently revealed it was seeking international partners in an attempt to place Angola among the world’s top-three diamond producers.

Source: mining.com

Big-Stone Recoveries Return as Letšeng Reopens

Gem Diamonds new large rough diamond recoveries

Gem Diamonds has recovered a number of large, high-quality stones at its Letšeng mine in Lesotho, all found in the first week after production resumed following the COVID-19 lockdown.

They include a 60-carat, light-yellow, type I diamond, and three D-color, white, type II diamonds weighing 87, 66 and 23 carats, the company said Monday. It also found several diamonds over 10.8 carats.

Between February and March, the miner unearthed four white diamonds weighing 88, 56, 53 and 33 carats. It has also retrieved two diamonds over 100 carats so far this year, and a 13.33-carat pink.

Gem Diamonds restarted production at Letšeng last week after the government allowed the mining sector to reopen following an extended shutdown. Lesotho remains on lockdown until May 5.

Source: Diamonds.net

Pandora in the Red as China Market Slows

Pandora store in HK

Pandora reported a loss in the first quarter following global store shutdowns amid the coronavirus outbreak.

The company posted a loss of DKK 24 million ($3.5 million), compared with a profit of DKK 797 million ($115.8 million) the previous year, the Danish charm maker said Tuesday. The loss was driven by the global shutdown of all the company’s stores during the period as the COVID-19 pandemic spread, particularly in China.

“The Chinese market was in many ways challenging for Pandora in [the first quarter],” the company noted. “Pandora started to close physical stores due to COVID-19 from late January, and the logistics of the online channel were also disrupted.”

Global sales fell 13% year on year to DKK 4.17 billion ($606.1 million) for the January-to-March period, the Danish charm maker reported Tuesday. Revenue in the US slipped 7% in local currency to DKK 935 million ($135.8 million), while sales in China plunged 61% to DKK 212 million ($30.8 million) in local-currency terms.

Prior to the closures, the company saw positive growth in the first two months of the year in key markets including the US, the UK, Italy, France and Germany. Total revenue was up 1% for January and February, as consumers responded to the company’s new brand marketing.

Online sales were also strong, primarily during the lockdown period, growing 29%, Pandora said. The online channel grew by triple-digit rates in April.

Sales have improved since the end of the quarter, as stores began to reopen, the company noted. Although markets in China reopened in March, traffic was still weak, but demand strengthened “substantially” in April.

“Traffic into the stores is gradually improving and is getting closer to a normalized level,” Pandora said. The company has hired a new general manager for the region to help turn around performance and establish Pandora as a “unique and well-known brand” in China. The jeweler has also begun to reopen stores in Germany.

Pandora is preparing a number of commercial initiatives it plans to roll out as soon as the market situation strengthens.

“The group is now preparing for the recovery after the pandemic, and our strong performance in January and February makes us confident in the underlying brand momentum,” said Pandora CEO Alexander Lacik. “We have implemented cost and cash initiatives to ensure that we have the necessary financial strength for a strong commercial comeback when demand starts normalizing.”

The company will not issue financial guidance for 2020 until the market stabilizes and it can provide meaningful information, it noted.

Source: Diamonds.net

Alrosa halts diamond mining at two assets

Alrosa

Russia’s Alrosa, the world’s top diamond producer by output, is temporarily suspending production at two assets as demand and sales for diamonds continues to drop.

Major consumers, including China and the United States, are struggling with economic headwinds caused by the global covid-19 pandemic. Extended lockdowns affecting key players in the supply chain, including polishers and top retailers, has only made things worse.

The Russian state-controlled miner said the dire state of the market would force it to halt its Aikhal underground mine and Zarya open pit from May 15 to September 30 and to December 30, respectively.

The two assets account for roughly 7% of the company’s diamond output in carat terms. They produced 2.6 million carats of rough diamonds last year.

Personnel of suspended operations and auxiliary services will be partially laid-off, Alrosa said. The remaining employees will be transferred to other assets or stay to keep up maintenance work at the idled operations.

The diamond giant said in March it may revise down its output guidance for 2020, which currently sits at 34.2 million carats. In 2019, it produced 38.5 million carats.

Source: mining.com

Don’t Ban Rough Buying, De Beers Urges

Bruce Cleaver

De Beers CEO Bruce Cleaver has called on the trade to allow rough purchases, assuring manufacturers the company won’t require them to buy in the weak market.

“We will only sell [rough] when the demand is such that it can create sustainable value for all of us,” the executive wrote in a blog post Friday. “However, just as we are not compelling our clients to purchase, we strongly believe it is counterproductive for any part of the industry to compel them not to purchase.”

Cleaver’s plea comes after the Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC) and other Indian trade organizations called on the nation’s diamond sector to pause rough-diamond imports for 30 days, beginning on May 15. The move would improve the Indian industry’s liquidity situation and deplete inflated polished inventories, the trade bodies explained.

Without explicitly referencing the Indian trade groups’ appeal to their members, Cleaver argued that supply had already been significantly reduced after De Beers suspended production at most of its mines. “Almost all other diamond producers have halted or significantly reduced supply, with some mines unlikely to return to production,” he added. De Beers cut its production guidance for 2020 to 25 million to 27 million carats, more than 20% below its initial projection, Cleaver noted.

The company also canceled its March sight and is offering 100% deferrals at sight 4, which begins Monday. Sightholders are likely to defer the vast majority of purchases to later in the year, as weak consumer demand and the shutdown of India’s cutting industry have diminished appetite for rough.

On Friday, India extended its nationwide lockdown by two weeks, raising the question of when diamond manufacturing would revert to normal, especially in the city of Surat, which produces more than 90% of the world’s polished goods.

Marketing message

Meanwhile, Cleaver urged the industry to capitalize on the diamond’s symbolism, as consumers will seek to purchase “fewer, but more meaningful things” as they move out of lockdown. Signs of pent-up demand from delayed weddings, and self-purchases to reward hardships that have been overcome, are starting to show in China as the lockdown there has eased, the CEO commented. People are visiting stores and shopping malls again, he said.

In its communication with consumers over the coming months, De Beers will emphasize the role diamonds play in shaping a better world and in forging meaningful connections, he stressed.

“Just as they have had to find innovative ways to stay connected with loved ones, we will find new ways to connect with them,” he said.

“Throughout time, the diamond has served as a powerful symbol of connection and meaning,” he wrote. “It has always been attached to life’s most precious moments and relationships and represented a store of value, but increasingly we believe a diamond is becoming a store of values.”

Source: Diamonds.net