Laboratory grown diamond term is still a source of confusion for many diamond buyers and jewellers.
Natural Diamonds have been high coveted and sort after for thousands of years.
Diamonds have always been a status symbol for the elite and super wealthy, only becoming available to the general populations after large discoveries and marketing by the De Beers group.
The demand for mined diamonds has grown over the past century, At same time the source of new ground to mine has become ever increasingly hard to find or work.
This created the need for a scientific way to create alternatives. Enter Lab grown diamonds, or laboratory created diamonds.
Many Jewellers and most consumers are still confused about the process of creating a diamond, and how these stones actually differ from mined diamonds.
Laboratory grown diamonds are precisely the same in every way to mined diamonds but one. How the diamonds carbon bond grows under heat and pressure.
The growth structure of the carbon in natural mined diamond is haphazard and mixed with elements other than carbon. Nitrogen is the most common.
Lab grown are pure carbon for the most part, with distinctive growth structures visible under high magnification in gemological equipment available at the worlds notable laboratories.
How Can You Tell the Difference Between Lab Grown Diamonds?
Short answer is you can’t.
Lab grown diamonds are visually indistinguishable from natural diamonds, Not even and expert can tell the difference without gemological tasting equipment.
DTC Diamond View at the DCLA Laboratory Sydney
While some differences in old HPHT Lab diamonds can be identified under a special microscope, there’s nothing obvious about a lab grown diamond.
So how can a laboratory tell the difference?
Almost all natural diamonds contain traces of nitrogen, This is actually what gemologists use to screen out potential lab grown diamonds for further testing.
The actual gemological test requires state of the art gemological equipment. No counter top testers can prove the origin.
Are lab grown as durable as natural ?
The fact is lab grown diamonds are identical natural diamonds in strength, most of which have no flaws which could cause durability issues.
So as to the question Is a Lab Grown Diamond a Real Diamond ?
Rough lab Grown Diamond
Answer is, Yes, lab grown diamonds are 100% as real as diamonds that have been mined from the earth.
Not only are they identical in every single way except origin, they have all the same optical properties as mined diamonds.
DCLA remains the only laboratory in Australia that guarantees, every diamond ever graded has been tested for origin and all known treatments.
Blue Nile, a market leader in online diamond jewelry, has combined with Mudrick Capital Acquisition Corp. II, a special purpose acquisition company (SPAC), to take the company public with an expected listing on NASDAQ in early fourth quarter 2022.
The company is valued at $873 million and is anticipated to generate some $450 million in capital before expenses, including $50 million in new funds from Mudrick and $80 million from sponsors Bain Capital Private Equity, Bow Street and Adama Partners and Mudrick Capital.
It’s not the first time Blue Nile has been down this road. Founded in 1999, it first went public in 2004, then private again when it was acquired by Bain Capital and Bow Street in 2017.
With 2021 revenues estimated at $566 million, Blue Nile is expected to reach $661 million to $773 million in 2023, according to a report released by Mudrick. Since 2018, the company has garnered 17% CAGR, including a 22% rise from 2019, and a +515bps rise in gross margin. With gross margins in the 30% range currently, the target operating model aims to increase it to 40%.
The Mudrick analysis sees the $320 billion global fine jewelry market ripe for disruption with Blue Nile’s track record in disrupting the U.S. $60 billion fine jewelry market proof of concept.
The fact that its founder Mark Vadon and the CEOs who followed him, including current CEO Sean Kell, didn’t come from the in-bred jewelry industry gave the company a leg-up when it came to disrupting the status quo.
MORE FOR YOU ‘No Christmas Trees, No Christmas Trees’ Another Shortage May Be On The Way The Grocery Business Is Going To Get Much More Competitive Costco Addresses Supply Chain Pains By Chartering Their Own Ships Blue Nile believes its uniquely integrated digital-showroom strategy is the secret sauce that will power the company forward into the new world of what fellow Forbes.com contributor Steve Dennis calls “harmonized retail.”
There are currently 18 Blue Nile showrooms with two more coming soon in Atlanta’s Lenox Square and Bloomington’s Mall of America. The showrooms are designed to take the friction out of the traditional jewelry store shopping experience and make the online virtual experience real.
“Buying diamonds is much harder than it needs to be,” CEO Sean Kell shared with me. “It’s confusing and intimidating and it’s very hard to tell the difference between one diamond and another. Our showrooms and website provide multi-touch integration in a low-pressure, learning environment.”
Blue Nile Houston Showroom’s interior COURTESY OF BLUE NILE
In the showrooms, customers can touch-and-feel diamonds and see them in different settings with orders placed there or later from the comfort of home. “It’s an ‘inventory-less’ showroom concept where you can see the differences between different sizes, cuts and settings, then you can order in the store, by phone or online for delivery,” he continued.
Virtually every diamond shopper these days starts their journey on the internet no matter where they end up buying. It’s almost required for consumers to master the 4Cs of diamonds – Cut, Color, Clarity, Carats. And because that first diamond purchase is often the most expensive one that an individual or a couple makes, shopping is often a stress-filled experience since consumers are stepping into unfamiliar territory.
“The diamond shopping journey is like the kids’ game of ‘Chutes and Ladders,’ where a couple of steps forward may send you sliding back,” Kell reflected. “It’s an extremely convoluted shopping journey where people may look at one or many websites, walk into one or many stores, then go back and do it all again. But what underlies it all is a thirst for knowledge and confidence that they are getting a good deal.”
When it comes to selection, Blue Nile is the hands-down favorite, with over 650,000 diamonds available, which is orders of magnitude higher than the handful offered by a typical independent jeweler and five-times more than digital competitor Brilliant Earth.
But with all that selection comes confusion. Blue Nile works to eliminate that through its showrooms, the customer-friendly website that makes it easy to select the right diamond cut, size and setting and by-appointment virtual showrooms where a personal jeweler working in a professional studio presents carefully selected items for customers to view online and discuss. Its call center also helps close the sale, with 35% of revenue connected with it.
“We see such a great opportunity to make buying diamonds and fine jewelry easier by inspiring confidence. Our personal jewelers take a consultative approach to help customers find their perfect jewelry item. It is a very different experience than shoppers may have in a higher-pressure, ‘old-school’ jewelry store approach.”
And because Blue Nile started under a B2C internet business model, it’s been able to keep costs low and transfer the savings along to the customer. Blue Nile prices tend to run 25% to 50% below that of traditional brick-and-mortar retailers. And it offers a price-match guarantee if the customer finds a similar quality and size stone for less.
“Everyone is looking for a fair price. Most people aren’t looking to pay the absolute lowest price, but they want a deal for really good quality. That’s what we try to do,” Kell explained.
And customers can buy with confidence with its 30-day return policy, lifetime warranty and its upgrade policy that allows customers to recover full value to move up to a more expensive diamond. “Our upgrade offering puts a new spin on the ‘diamond is forever’ notion,” he quipped.
Today Blue Nile boasts nearly three million customers and nearly one-third of its sales come from repeat customers. Its customer base skews 45 years and under for engagement rings – the typical first purchase – with ages skewing to 55 years and under for jewelry purchases. And incomes and net worth runs high for both buyers, $100k+ and $1 million+ respectively.
“After someone buys an engagement ring, they come back a year, two or three later for an anniversary gift. Diamond-stud earrings, eternity bands and tennis bracelets are our most gifted items,” he continued.
As for the future, Blue Nile plans to have 26 showrooms open by end of the year and another ten or so added in 2023. Showrooms not only provide a higher closing rate and increase the average order size compared to website-alone orders, but they increase overall sales in the trade area by 80%.
Continued expansion into international markets is also ahead as it currently ships to 44 countries, including China, U.K., Canada and Australia.
“We are very excited about our pending, plans to go public,” Kell concluded. “We think it’s a great opportunity for our business. And raising capital gives us a great opportunity to invest in our business and expand our showroom network. We already have a good business beyond the U.S., including China, Canada and Europe and see a big opportunity for us outside the U.S. Everybody all over the world wants great value and beautiful jewelry.
In 2018, the FTC permitted “a mineral consisting essentially of pure carbon crystallized in the isometric system” to be described as a “diamond,” whether naturally occurring or man-made. Ever since then, the jewelry establishment has been erecting barriers of entry for lab-grown diamonds into their lucrative $84 billion global market.
The Natural Diamond Council established the official party line, declaring “Crafted by nature over millions of years, natural diamonds are inherently valuable, rare and precious.” Lab-grown diamonds, by contrast, are cheap manufactured substitutes whose value is “tied strictly to the cost of production” and therefore have no lasting value.
With the most to lose, luxury brands, including Bulgari, Cartier and Tiffany (now an LVMH brand), stood firmly behind that barrier and held only natural diamonds were luxury.
But now the walls have been breached with LVMH Luxury Ventures, along with other investors, having completed a $90 million investment round in Israel-based Lusix, a pioneer in the lab-grown diamond (LGD) industry.
Lusix joins MadHappy, Gabriella Hearst, Versed and Stadium Goods in LVMH Luxury Venture’s portfolio. Its investment priorities are clear: seek out brands at the forefront of emerging trends and innovation in the luxury market.
Specifically, it invests in “Iconic luxury brands, recognized for their distinctiveness and the quality of their products and services, with significant growth potential.”
Lusix fits the bill. It is the LGD industry’s first 100% solar-powered diamond producer with its stones sold under the “Sun Grown Diamond” brand. It can grow both clear and custom-colored rough stones in its large-scale reactors and it is one of the industry’s leading producers of premium-quality diamonds.
“LVMH’s investment in the lab space is a statement that lab-growns are going into luxury in a big way,” shared Marty Hurwitz, founder of The MVEye, a research firm specializing in the jewelry market.
“Right now demand for lab-grown diamonds is through the roof and the only thing holding it back is supply. LVMH investment in Lusix will give them secure access to premium-quality supply,” he continued.
Lusix’s technology edge made it particularly attractive to LVMH. The company was founded by Benny Landa, who made his name advancing digital printing technology with his Indigo Printing Company which was eventually sold to Hewlett-Packard in 2002.
He then formed Landa Group, and under that Landa Labs, to explore nanotechnology research and applications. Lusix was spun-off in 2016 as a separate business headed by Landa and co-founder Dr. Yossi Yayon with a Ph.D. in physics and post-graduate work at the University of California, Berkley.
The $90 million investment will be used to bring a second 100% solar-powered facility online this summer.
Landa said in a statement, “We are thrilled and proud to welcome such high-profile investors, most notably LVMH Luxury Ventures, bringing their financial support and valuable industry insights. Their help will contribute greatly to our company’s success while the implications of this investment, both for LUSIX and for the lab-grown diamond segment, are profound – and so exciting!”
Without a doubt, this is exciting news for the entire lab-grown diamond industry which today is estimated to total just under $6 billion and before this announcement was predicted to double in size by 2025.
With LVMH now giving its official luxury imprimatur to lab-grown diamonds, it is safe to bet it will grow even faster than that.
“Lusix is going to double its production by 2023 which will accelerate the market even faster,” Hurwitz shared.
In a final note, Frédéric Arnault, LVMH CEO Bernard Arnault’s 27-year-old son and head of its Tag Heuer brand, was likely instrumental in getting his father to take a closer look at LGDs. Earlier this year, Tag Heuer introduced its first watch featuring lab-grown diamonds at the super-luxury price of $360,000.
“It’s not about replacing traditional diamonds with lab-grown diamonds,” he shared with Vogue Business. “We use what’s different and inherent to this technology, allowing us new shapes and textures.”
Frédéric understands what the next-generation luxury consumers want and that is being given the choice between natural diamonds with their attendant environmental challenges and lab-grown diamonds that are renewable and can be produced without the high environmental price tag.
Plus, consumers can get a bigger and often better quality stone at a lower price. That’s the kind of choice everyone wants.
The diamond industry is being driven by expectations. While this is not a rare occurrence, it is worth noting, given the unusual dynamic currently shaping the market.
While there is a lot of polished inventory available today — as the number of stones listed on RapNet attests — manufacturers and dealers anticipate scarcities later in the third quarter once demand starts to ramp up for the holiday season.
The projected drop is due to a slump in supply rather than an uptick in present-day demand, because production from Russia has been off the market for the past three months. However, several factors could influence the eventual outcome, as we outline in the June issue of the Rapaport Research Report.
Alrosa rough has purportedly started trickling into the market again and is expected to continue doing so with more vigor in the coming months, if not weeks — even as the war in Ukraine continues to rage.
The Russian miner’s supply will include current production, as well as goods it has been unable to sell since March 11 due to sanctions-related payment issues, shipping restrictions, and manufacturers’ uncertainty about how to handle the new Russian reality.
But while the US has banned imports of Russian goods, other countries have not — notably China and India. Polished suppliers therefore have a market for Russian diamonds. They just need to make sure to separate them from non-Russian ones in the manufacturing stage. They also need to make sure to document and disclose the origins of all their stones.
This separation will bifurcate the market, leaving shortages in the US — where sanctions are in place —and at high-end brands that have implemented their own ethical standards. It could also result in an excess of supply for the rest of the market where Russian goods are allowed.
The provenance premium is therefore starting to take effect within the trade. While De Beers noted in its 2021 Diamond Insight Report that consumers were willing to pay more for responsibly sourced diamonds and jewelry, it was unclear how that would play out in the business-to-business environment.
Fresh Russia-sourced polished will likely start to enter the market toward the end of the third quarter, since it takes two to three months to process rough and prepare the resulting inventory for sale. Dealers and manufacturers are then expected to sell the stones at a discount — in line with the lower prices they likely paid for the Alrosa rough, and more importantly, because they won’t be able to trade with the US, which accounts for over half of global diamond jewelry demand.
Another way to look at it is that those same dealers and manufacturers may start selling non-Russian diamonds at a premium. That’s because such diamonds are considered responsibly sourced goods in the influential US and European markets, but it’s also because US retailers will likely face shortages without the Alrosa supply.
This puts the market in a bind as we approach the midpoint of the year.
How does one manage expectations in such a scenario? The answer largely depends on the area of the market — and the world — with which one does business.
A diamond weighing more than 100 carats smashed its high estimate at Christie’s New York Wednesday, raking in $20 million.
The emerald-cut, 103.49-carat, D-flawless, type IIa Light of Africa was the star of the Magnificent Jewels auction, surpassing its $18 million presale upper price tag. The stone is the fifth most-valuable colorless diamond Christie’s has ever offered, it said Thursday. It was crafted by Dubai-based manufacturer Stargems, from a 299.3-carat rough unearthed at Petra Diamonds’ Cullinan mine in South Africa. Stargems bought the stone for $12.2 million in 2021.
In total, the sale garnered $48.9 million, with 95% of the items on offer finding buyers.
“The Magnificent Jewels auction…rounded off an incredible sale season with solid results worldwide,” said Rahul Kadakia, international head of jewelry for Christie’s. “The 103.49-carat Light of Africa diamond achieved an incredible $195,000 per carat, demonstrating the strength of the diamond market at the highest levels.”
De Beers, the world’s top diamond producer by value, has once again increased the price of its smaller stones as sanctions on Alrosa, its Russian rival, have worsened a global shortage caused by two years of covid-related shutdowns.
The Anglo American unit had hiked prices by about 8% at its first sale this year, with the sharpest increases of up to 20% affecting small-scale roughs, as demand reached pre-pandemic levels.
Prices for these diamonds, which usually end up clustered around the solitaire stone in a ring, have soared since early April, when Alrosa was targeted by US sanctions related to Russia’s invasion of Ukraine.
Diamonds are one of Russia’s top ten non-energy exports by value, with shipments in 2021 totalling over $4.5 billion, and its state-owned diamond producer is responsible for about a third of global supply.
Unlike Alrosa, De Beers doesn’t produce much of diamonds used in lower-end jewellery usually found a chain stores such as Costco or Walmart which is creating increasing shortages as Alrosa’s ability to supply the market remains uncertain.
People familiar with the matter told Bloomberg that De Beers applied a 5% to 7% price increase this week in Botswana, where the company holds 10 sales each year in events known as sights.
Around 60 handpicked customers known as sightholders are given a black and yellow box each time. These contain plastic bags filled with stones, with the number of boxes and quality of diamonds depending on what the buyer and De Beers had agreed to in an annual allocation.
De Beers rises small diamonds price amid shortage Prices for small rough diamonds, the type that would end up clustered around the solitaire stone in a ring, are climbing.
Prices for small rough diamonds are climbing.
The miner increased the price of its rough diamonds throughout much of 2021 as it sought to recover from the first year of the pandemic when the industry came to a near halt.
The strategy, which applied to stones bigger than 1 carat, granted De Beers a steady recovery during the year, with prices gaining 23% in just over a year, parent company Anglo American said in a December presentation.
De Beers now only carries working inventory stocks and its mines are running at full tilt. There is little chance of material increases in supply before 2024, when a $2 billion underground expansion of its Venetia mine in South Africa is expected to be completed.
The diamond jewelry industry is going into the year with diamond supply at historically low levels, estimated by Bain & Company at 29 million carats in 2021. “Upstream inventories declined ~40%, driven by high demand and slow production recovery, and are near the minimal technical level,” the report stated.
The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) plans to convert all of its paper reports to digital within the next three years, beginning with its Diamond Dossier in 2023.
The digital reports, which it will link to an app, will be more secure than their paper counterparts, the GIA said Tuesday. They will be paired with a new inscription-matching service, called GIA Match iD. This feature captures a diamond’s inscription image and links the stone to its GIA report using artificial intelligence (AI).
As each report category is introduced in digital form, the printed reports will be discontinued, the GIA told Rapaport News. However, some specialty services, such as the Monograph reports and notable letters, will continue to be available in printed versions.
“Digital reports…build on our decades of innovation and move our consumer protection mission forward,” said GIA CEO Susan Jacques. “This important transformation allows GIA to offer consumers a truly modern and engaging experience while helping our industry progress toward a more sustainable future.”
Starting in January 2023, the new Diamond Dossier service will offer a fully digital report, including the 4Cs; the app, which enables retailers and consumers to view, save and share information for their diamonds; and the Match iD instrument.
The elimination of GIA paper reports will save 20 tons of paper and 18.5 tons of plastic each year, the GIA said. It will also reduce transportation-related carbon emissions, the institute added.
Diamond trading was stable in May despite concerns about inflation, rising interest rates and slumping stock markets. Polished prices initially declined but later steadied as dealers anticipated supply shortages resulting from Russian sanctions.
The RapNet Diamond Index (RAPI™) for 1-carat diamonds slid 0.5% in May but was 9.3% higher on June 1 than at the beginning of the year.
RapNet Diamond Index (RAPI™)
May
Year to date Jan. 1 to June 1
Year on year June 1, 2020, to June 1 2021
RAPI 0.30 ct.
0.6%
1.3%
-0.1%
RAPI 0.50 ct.
-0.3%
5.8%
8.2%
RAPI 1 ct.
-0.5%
9.3%
22.1%
RAPI 3 ct.
-0.3%
10.6%
25.7%
US demand is supporting the market even as economic uncertainty sets in. Expectations are rising for the Las Vegas shows, which begin June 8. Dealers hope the positive sentiment will boost trading in the second half of the year. Chinese wholesalers remain cautious as activity resumes after the country’s Covid-19 lockdowns.
Inventory levels are high but have decreased in select categories. The number of diamonds on RapNet stood at 1.8 million as of June 1, up 43% from a year earlier. The quantity of 0.30-carat, D- to H-color, IF- to VS-clarity goods fell 14% in May; 0.50-carat diamonds in the same range declined 11%. Both categories were still significantly above last year’s levels.
While the sanctions on Russian goods have not yet caused notable polished scarcities, shortages are likely in the coming months. Rough supply has dropped since Alrosa canceled its March and April sales. Prices at rough auctions have increased — particularly in the small-diamond category, which Alrosa dominates. De Beers raised prices of small rough at its latest sight from June 6 to 10.
The market is splitting into two segments: Russian and non-Russian goods. Some big cutters are finding ways to buy Alrosa rough in order to serve centers that remain open to buying Russian-origin polished. These diamonds will likely sell at a discount to non-sanctioned ones.
US and European jewelers and brands may have difficulty filling their sourcing requirements in the coming months without Russian supply. This will lend further support to diamond prices.
Diamonds from Rio Tinto’s Argyle Pink Diamond Tender.
Rio Tinto has debuted a new strategy that will enable it to “protect the provenance” of its Argyle pink diamonds, including a certification service and a concierge trading platform.
“This is the start of a new chapter for Argyle pink diamonds, to ensure they maintain their value and investment potential as a finite, unrepeatable natural resource and achieve the status of outstanding heritage diamonds,” Rio Tinto Minerals CEO Sinead Kaufman said last week.
The venture will also play host to a new Beyond Rare tender platform for special sales events, as well as several strategic collections and collaborations involving existing inventory and the secondary market.
One such venture, the Icon Partner program, will give jewelers licensing rights to use the Argyle Pink Diamonds brand for jewelry they create with any remaining inventory they previously purchased from the Argyle mine. The first two retailers Rio Tinto has authorized are John Calleija, the owner of Australian luxury-jewelry house Calleija, and Singapore-based Glajz THG, owned by John Glajz.
“The secondary market for Argyle pink diamonds comprises almost 40 years of rare, polished pink diamonds, together with heirloom pieces of jewelry, collectibles and objects,” the miner noted. “This market requires careful management to preserve the precious provenance of Argyle pink diamonds and continue the legacy of careful custody that underscores its rarity.
Africa-focused Gem Diamonds has found a 125 carat rough stone at its Letšeng mine in Lesotho, the miner’s second rock over 100 carats mined this year.
The company, known for the recovery of large, high quality stones in 2020, has seen output of high quality diamonds surpassing the 100 carat mark become less frequent over the past year.
In 2021, Gem Diamonds found only six of such diamonds at Letšeng, compared to the 16 it discovered in 2020.
The find comes as prices for small diamonds have jumped about 20% since the start of March, as cutters, polishers and traders struggle to source stones outside Russia.
State owned Russian miner Alrosa, the world’s top diamond producer by output, was hit with US sanctions following Moscow’s invasion of Ukraine.
Higher prices for lower end stones are good news for miners, but not a game changer, experts say. While every mine is different, a general rule is that 20% of production the best stones account for about 80% of profits.
Since acquiring Letšeng in 2006, the company has found more than 60 white gem quality diamonds over 100 carats each, with 16 of them recovered last year. At an average elevation of 3,100 metres (10,000 feet) above sea level, Letšeng is also one of the world’s highest diamond mines.
