News – Page 114 – The Diamond Certification Laboratory of Australia (DCLA)

The Diamond Trade’s Provenance Challenge

Source verification programs are poised to become a standard feature of diamond sales, with early adopters set to gain market share.

The question of whether a diamond could be traced throughout the distribution chain initially met with some skepticism. Back in 2011, as rough production from Zimbabwe’s controversial Marange fields was being cleared for export by the Kimberley Process, the goods were still banned in the United States (as they remain today). It was therefore necessary to separate the Marange goods during the production process if manufacturers were to continue supplying both the US market, and jewelers in other centers that were willing to buy the Zimbabwe rough.

Back then, manufacturers gave contrasting responses on whether such separation was possible, as factories tended to aggregate their supply from different mines into size and quality categories. Today, we know it is indeed possible, thanks to technology such as radio-frequency identification (RFID).

But what happens once the diamond leaves the factory? Or even before it arrives from the mine?

With millennials raising the bar when it comes to ethical consumption, these questions need to be answered. In fact, millennials are not so much demanding that the diamonds they buy be responsibly sourced, as assuming it to be the case.

That tells us two things: First, the cost of not being able to vouch for your supply is extremely high, and second, consumers value the story of traceable diamonds if it is told to them.

That’s not to say such diamonds will sell at a premium in the long term. Rather, we expect that source-verification programs, with innovative marketing behind them, will become a standard feature of diamond sales. In that sense, today’s early adopters are setting themselves up for success.

In the October issue of the Rapaport Research Report, we try to identify the added value these programs provide. We also assess the most effective ways to trace a diamond, focusing on some of the more innovative programs available today.

Are blockchain systems, which record the data flow associated with the diamond, enough, or should we focus on programs attempting to track the physical stone? Would it be more productive for retailers to build their own platforms to trace their diamond supply back to the source? Or is it better for miners, manufacturers, and third parties such as the grading labs to provide tracking services that retailers can tap into?

The last year or two has brought examples of all of the above, many of which are still in the pilot phase and likely to need some fine-tuning. It’s encouraging that the trade is engaged in this conversation. The diamond and jewelry industry needs to satisfy ethically conscious millennials and keep up with consumer trends. And even if it’s unclear whether a traceable diamond can sell at a higher price than a non-traceable one, source verification is a necessity moving forward; it’s simply the right thing for the industry to do.

Image: Chow Tai Fook laser inscribes diamonds for its T Mark program. (Chow Tai Fook)

Source: diamonds.net

Diamond industry leaders collaborate to create Tracr blockchain platform

Alrosa has joined the collaborative programme being led by De Beers, Tracr, the end-to-end diamond industry blockchain traceability platform.

Alrosa will join industry leaders from the diamond manufacturing and retail sectors in creating the blockchain platform by the industry, for the industry.

Following the announcement of the Tracr pilot earlier this year, Alrosa’s involvement brings the world’s two largest diamond producers together to provide enhanced assurance for consumers and trade participants about the provenance and authenticity of their diamonds, and in creating a digital foundation for new services that can only be developed on an end-to-end platform.

Bruce Cleaver, CEO, De Beers Group, says:

“To provide true traceability, diamonds must be tracked from their point of production. We are delighted that Alrosa has joined the Tracr pilot, as the collective efforts of the world’s two leading diamond producers will enable more of the world’s diamonds to be tracked on their journey from mine to retail.

“Having a critical level of production on the platform will deliver significant benefits for consumers and diamond industry participants.”

Sergey Ivanov, CEO, Alrosa, says:

“Traceability is the key to further development of our market. It helps to ensure consumer confidence and fill information gaps, enabling people to enjoy the product without any doubts about ethical issues or undisclosed synthetics.

“Alrosa is glad to participate in testing Tracr, along with other market solutions. We believe tracing requires industry cooperation and complementation for the sake of a common goal.”

Jim Duffy, General Manager, Tracr, says:

“As Tracr’s adoption grows, we will continue to raise the bar for the traceability, authenticity and provenance of diamonds.

“We look forward to working with all members of the industry to ensure we deliver a comprehensive platform that creates value for diamond businesses while meeting the consumer’s expectations.”

Tracr is focused on providing consumers with confidence that registered diamonds are natural and conflict-free, improving visibility and trust within the industry and enhancing efficiencies across the diamond value chain.

In addition, Tracr will work to complement and support the diamond industry’s existing initiatives and regulations to ensure consumer confidence in diamonds, including the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme, World Diamond Council System of Warranties and Responsible Jewellery Council Code of Practices.

Shift to Larger Diamonds Boosts Alrosa

Alrosa’s sales increased in the third quarter amid stronger demand and a move toward larger diamonds, the miner reported.

Revenue from rough stones rose 12% year on year to $949 million for the three months ending September 30, the Russian company said Monday. While sales volume fell 11% to 6.7 million carats, the average price grew 26% to $142 per carat. Prices have climbed 5.2% since the beginning of the year on a like-for-like basis, it added.

“Average realised prices for rough, gem quality diamonds grew, driven by both general demand growth and a higher share of large diamonds,” the miner explained.

Meanwhile, polished-diamond sales surged 83% to $24.1 million.

Production grew 2% to 10.5 million carats during the quarter as the miner increased ore processing at its Jubilee pipe, and raised output at the Udachny and Severalmaz divisions.

In the first nine months of the year, revenue from rough stones improved 9% to $3.59 billion, and polished revenue increased 9% to $74 million. By volume, sales for the period fell 9% to 29.1 million carats. Production dropped 11% to 26.4 million carats due to the shutdown of the miner’s Mir asset and the termination of open-pit mining at the Udachnaya pipe, Alrosa said.

Alrosa has offered some of its inventory for sale over the past year to offset the lower production. As a result, its stockpiles have decreased 11% to 15.5 million carats as of September 30, compared with a year earlier.

Alrosa maintained its forecast of an 8% decline in production to 36.6 million carats this year, compared with 39.6 million carats last year.

Image: Rough diamonds on a grader’s table. (Alrosa)

Source: diamonds.net

Christie’s to Sell 24carat Marilyn Monroe Diamond

Christie’s is set to auction a 24 carat diamond necklace that Marilyn Monroe wore for the premiere of her 1953 movie Gentlemen Prefer Blondes.

The fancy yellow, VS2 clarity Moon of Baroda which originated from the famous Galconda mine that also produced the Hope Diamond is estimated at $500,000 to $750,000. Christie’s will also auction an autographed photo of the actress wearing the stone, it said Wednesday. The picture carries a presale valuation of $10,000 to $15,000.

The 24.04 carat stone was first documented in the 15th century as part of the collection of the Gaekwads of Baroda, the ruling family of India. After disappearing for a few centuries, the piece turned up in the US in 1926, brought there by Prince Ramachandra, who then sold it.

In the 1950s, the Moon of Baroda was acquired by Meyer Rosenbaum, the president of Meyer Jewelry Company. Rosenbaum loaned it to Monroe for the opening of the film Gentlemen Prefer Blondes, in which she sings “Diamonds Are a Girl’s Best Friend.”

In 1990, Christie’s auctioned the diamond in New York for $297,000. It subsequently remained out of the public eye for more than two decades.

“After 28 years, it has once again reappeared at Christie’s, only this time, the diamond has been classified as a historical diamond,” the auction house said.

Christie’s will preview the Moon of Baroda in Los Angeles from October 16 to 20, auctioning it at its Hong Kong Magnificent Jewels sale on November 27.

Main image: The 24.04-carat Moon of Baroda.

(Christie’s)

Side image: Marilyn Monroe wearing the necklace. (Frank Powolny)

Source: DIamonds.net

177 Carat Diamond Among the Stars of the Arctic

The three diamonds dubbed the “Diavik Stars of the Arctic” are, from left to right, the 177.71 carat “Vega,” the 24.82 carat “Capella” and the 59.10 carat “Altair.” Rio Tinto is offering the diamonds via tender, with bids closing later this month.

Known collectively as the “Stars of the Arctic,” the biggest of the three is “Vega of the Arctic,” a 177.71 carat rough diamond Vega Arctic Rough Diamondthat Rio Tinto said is one of the largest and most valuable gem quality diamonds to ever come out of Canada.

ALROSA Uncovers Largest Yellow Diamond Find So Far This Year

ALROSA subsidiary JSC Almazy Anabara has recovered a 28.59 carat rough diamond of deep greenish yellow hue the biggest yellow found so far this year.

ALROSA said that following an appraisal, the color of the stone has been determined as fancy intense yellow.

The diamond, discovered at Ebelyakh placer deposit in July, has dimensions of 11.40 x 19.00 x 17.50 mm, and has “insignificant colorless inclusions on the surface,” the miner said.

“This stone is unique because nature seemed to have prepared it for cutting in advance and gave it a pear-like shape,” said Evgeny Agureev, a Member of the Executive committee, and Director of the United Selling Organization of ALROSA.

The United Selling Organization and the company’s cutting division, DIAMONDS ALROSA, have yet to study the diamond and decide whether to auction it as a rough stone or to cut and polished it.

The Almazy Anabara is a leader in producing fancy colored stones. In 2017, it produced a 27.85 carat pure pink diamond the largest pink stone in ALROSA’s history, and a large 34.17 carat vivid yellow diamond.

ALROSA plans to focus its cutting division on the processing of large and colored diamonds and the subsequent sales. Starting this year, ALROSA has been sorting colored diamonds according to a new technology, that includes almost all hues and color grades. Most of these diamonds are processed by DIAMONDS ALROSA the company’s polished diamond unit.

ALROSA produces at least 7,000 carats of colored diamonds per year. In September, it held a True Colors auction in Hong Kong, where it showcased a collection of 250 diamonds of different shapes and hues. The company said it plans to run such auctions regularly.

Source: IDEX

Blue Diamond Sells for $14M at Sotheby’s

Sotheby’s brought in a total of $40.2 million at its Hong Kong auction Wednesday as a 5 carat blue diamond fetched $13.8 million.

The price of the step cut, fancy vivid blue, named the Ai diamond, after the Chinese word for love, fell within its estimate of $12.5 million to $15.3 million. The final selling price translated to $2.8 million per carat.

Another blue diamond a pear shaped, fancy intense blue weighing 3.47 carats sold for $3.1 million at the Magnificent Jewels and Jadeite auction against a pre-sale estimate of $2.7 million to $3.6 million. A step cut, 18.45 carat, D color, VVS2 clarity diamond ring fetched $2.3 million, smashing its estimate of $1.3 million to $1.7 million.

However, only one piece out of a collection of jewels by designer Wallace Chan found a buyer: a pair of jade and diamond earrings, estimated at $70,160 to $108,430, which went for $87,700.

Several jewels by Harry Winston, Van Cleef & Arpels and Cartier also sold at the auction.

Sotheby’s sold 65% of all lots on offer, it said.

Source: Diamonds.net

Rio Tinto unveils Argyle’s largest Fancy Purplish Red diamond

Rio Tinto has revealed its 2018 Argyle Pink Diamonds Tender in New York, including the Argyle Muse, the largest purplish red diamond ever offered.

The Argyle Muse, a 2.28-carat oval shaped Fancy Purplish Red gem, is one of 63 diamonds weighing a total of 51.48 carats being tendered at the event.

Argyle in Western Australia is the world’s only consistent source of rare pink, red and violet diamonds.

The 2018 tender is named Magnificent Argyle in honour of the mine’s role in charting the history of the world’s most coveted diamonds.

Rio Tinto copper and diamonds chief executive Arnaud Soirat said New York was the epicentre for rare fancy coloured diamond collectors and a key market for gems from Argyle.

“This is our 34th Argyle Pink Diamonds Tender and the potency of colours in this collection is a testament to the extraordinary Argyle ore body – rare fancy coloured diamonds, created and limited by nature.” Soirat said.

“The combination of strong demand and extremely limited world supply continues to support significant value appreciation for these stunning diamonds.”

The tender includes five Fancy Red diamonds, two Purplish Red diamonds and three Violet diamonds.

It includes six hero diamonds, which Rio Tinto selected for their unique beauty and were named to ensure a permanent record of their contribution to the history of Argyle’s diamonds.

Source: australianmining

Diavik ‘Stars Of The Arctic’ Provide Rough Diamond Tender Sparkle

Rio Tinto and Dominion Diamond Mines have revealed three of the finest large rough diamonds from their Canadian diamond mine that will be tendered to diamond specialists from around the world.

Collectively known as The Diavik Stars of the Arctic, the three rough diamonds showcase a rare combination of size, quality and color from the Diavik diamond mine in the remote Northwest Territories of Canada, 220 kilometers south of the Arctic Circle, the miner said in a statement.

The Diavik Stars of the Arctic will headline Rio Tinto’s forthcoming “Specials” Tender, which showcases rough diamonds greater than 10.8 carats. Taking their inspiration from constellations across the night skies of the North.

The Diavik Stars of the Arctic comprised of the, Vega of the Arctic, 177.71 carats, one of the largest and most valuable gem quality rough diamonds ever produced in Canada , Altair of the Arctic, 59.10 carats, a white gem quality rough diamond Capella of the Actic , 24.82 carats, a yellow diamond

Diavik Diamond Mines president and chief operating officer Patrick Boitumelo said, “Diavik diamonds are over two billion years old and it has taken 15 years of production to unearth these extraordinary diamonds, underscoring the ongoing importance of the Diavik ore body in the context of the global diamond industry.”

The Diavik Diamond Mine owned by Rio Tinto 60 per cent and joint venture partner Dominion Diamond Mines (40%) began production in 2003 and has been a fully underground mining operation since 2012. It recently opened its fourth pipe, the A21 pipe, which will provide an important source of incremental production.

The Diavik mine produces predominantly gem quality diamonds destined for high end jewelry in all major consumer markets around the world. The discovery of Lot 3, Capella of the Arctic, a large yellow diamond is very rare, with the mine on average producing only five of these diamonds each year, in effect less than 0.001% of annual production.

The Diavik Stars of the Arctic will be showcased in Antwerp and Israel to large diamond specialists from around the world before bids close on October 25.

Source: IDEX Online

Fluorescence Has No Negative Impact on Diamond Colour

HRD Antwerp, a leading European authority in diamond certification, recently undertook a study entitled “The Effect of Fluorescence on the Colour of a Diamond”, concluding that even strong fluorescence does not negatively impact a diamond’s appearance. In fact, their findings demonstrate the contrary: under normal conditions and even when outdoors, strong fluorescence has a positive influence on the color of diamonds. This finding directly contradicts the common perception that fluorescence is a negative property of diamonds, driving down their value. Given HRD Antwerp’s findings, they conclude there is no justification for the price penalties that currently apply to fluorescent diamonds.

Fluorescence, along with the 4Cs (carat weight, clarity, color and cut) is an important characteristic of a diamond and influences its value. Typically, in the diamond trade, it is perceived as a negative property, which drives the value of fluorescent diamonds down. HRD Antwerp’s study found this common perception is not justified. To make this determination, the lab set out to identify how fluorescence influences the color grading results by gemologists in standard laboratory environments, as well as to assess how fluorescence influences the visual appearance of a diamond for regular consumers. The latter was in fact the main purpose of the study: to determine the impact on the appearance of a mounted diamond as observed by an end consumer.

The experiments HRD Antwerp conducted in its laboratory revealed several significant points, foremost of which is that diamond fluorescence has no influence on the color grading of a diamond in a laboratory environment, due to the insignificant UV content in conventional grading lamps. In short, fluorescence should not lower the official color grade. Furthermore, conventional grading through the pavilion (lower half) of a diamond in outdoor conditions actually improves the color grade for diamonds with a fluorescence grade above ‘medium’. As an example, a diamond graded in the HRD Antwerp laboratory as a J color with very strong fluorescence can appear as a D color when examined in outdoor conditions. When the diamond is examined through the table (face up), there is still an improvement in color, although this change is less significant.

The results of HRD Antwerp’s study thus support findings from earlier studies conducted by other labs, adding additional objective assessments. It confirms that even very strong fluorescence has no detrimental effect on the appearance of diamonds in a laboratory setting, and when viewed through the pavilion in outdoor conditions, it results in a clear improvement in a diamond’s color. For the wearer or casual observer, fluorescence has a neutral or even positive impact on the appearance of a diamond, making it appear to be more colorless. Given these observations, HRD Antwerp concludes there are no grounds on which to justify the price penalties that currently apply to fluorescent diamonds.