Chinese Online Giant to Offer Verified GIA Reports

JD

Technology provider Everledger has teamed up with the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) to verify diamond grading reports on e-commerce site JD.com, China’s largest retailer.

Everledger will synchronize the GIA’s grading information to JD’s existing anti-counterfeiting platform, giving consumers independently verified grading reports, the three organizations said in a joint statement Tuesday. The program will also offer origin information, while identifying and reducing fraud, such as the use of the same GIA report for multiple stones.

Using blockchain technology, the service will give “unprecedented” transparency and enhance the digital-shopping experience amid a rise in online diamond buying, the groups said. “Digitally savvy” millennials account for a larger proportion of diamond sales in China than elsewhere in the world, they added.

“Given the growth in e-commerce, fraud is a very real risk in the diamond market, which is why it’s so important that consumers have access to secure and trustworthy information,” explained Chris Taylor, Everledger’s chief operating officer. “By bringing cutting-edge blockchain technology, online luxury shopping, and GIA’s gold-standard grading expertise together on JD.com, we’re empowering consumers to purchase luxury items with increased confidence.”

The information will be available through JD’s mobile and desktop websites, as well as on its app. The e-commerce giant will also offer livestreams and educational initiatives to teach customers about fraud associated with purchasing diamonds.

London-based Everledger entered greater China in 2018, when it collaborated with the GIA and Hong Kong-based jewelry retailer Chow Tai Fook to offer consumers secure grading reports using blockchain technology. The technology company also partnered with Alrosa to offer provenance information on diamonds through Chinese multipurpose app WeChat. Tencent, which owns WeChat, led Everledger’s Series A funding round last year.

JD, headquartered in Beijing, recorded revenues of $82.9 billion in 2019, putting it ahead of rival Alibaba, which brought in $72 billion in the fiscal year ending March 31, 2020.

Source: Diamonds.net

Star Diamond recovers 2,409 diamonds in second bulk sample

Star Diamonds

Star Diamond Corp announced that a total A total of 2,409 diamonds weighing 123.27 carats have to date been recovered from the second bulk sample trench (19FALCT004) excavated on its Star kimberlite at the Fort à la Corne kimberlite field in central Saskatchewan.

These initial results are from the second of 10 bulk sample trenches excavated by 60% optionee Rio Tinto Exploration Canada Inc in 2019.

The average diamond grades from the first two trenches are similar to historical diamond grade results detected from the underground bulk sampling and large diameter drilling completed on the Star kimberlite between 2004 and 2009. These results are also similar to the overall weighted average grade 14 carats per hundred tonnes reported in Star Diamond’s PEA of the Star and Orion South kimberlites .

The three largest diamonds recovered to date from 19FALCT004 are 2.98, 2.03 and 1.99 carats, respectively, and were all recovered from Early Joli Fou kimberlite. The EJF is the dominant kimberlite unit within the project in terms of ore volume and diamond grade.

As disclosed by Star Diamond on August 4, 2020, there are indications that recent diamond breakage has occurred in the diamond parcels recovered thus far from RTEC’s trench cutter bulk sampling program, suggesting that the extraction and/or processing systems being used by RTEC may be resulting in diamond breakage. Comprehensive diamond breakage studies are required to assess the nature and extent of the diamond breakage resulting from RTEC’s methods and the possibility that larger diamonds would have been recovered absent such breakage.

Senior vice president of exploration and development, George Read, states: “The initial diamond results from 19FALCT004 and 19FALCT001 continue to show grades similar to the previous underground bulk sampling and LDD performed by Star Diamond on the Star kimberlite. Individual EJF kimberlite samples recovered in the first two trenches exhibit a range of grades 9.81 to 21.22 cpht for 19FALCT004 and 4.88 to 23.34 cpht for 19FALCT001, which are as expected for the EJF kimberlite.”

Source: resourceworld

GIA Now Able to Screen Fancy-Shaped Melee

GIA Melee diamonds

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has expanded its melee-screening capabilities, with the organization now able to test whether parcels of fancy-shaped diamonds contain lab-grown or treated stones.

The melee-analysis service separates natural diamonds from synthetics, simulants and stones that are potentially treated using High Pressure-High Temperature (HPHT). Since launching it in 2016, the GIA has only been able to sort round-brilliant melee, the GIA said last week.

The service processes 1,800 to 2,000 stones per hour, and can also sort screened round diamonds by color and size range. Once diamonds are sorted, the melee is sealed in a secure package and returned, the GIA noted. 

Source: Diamonds.net

Miner Finds 442-Carat Diamond That May Be Worth $18 Million

442-Carat Diamond

A small diamond miner that has dug some of the world’s most valuable gems from a mountainous African kingdom has found another huge stone.

Gem Diamonds Ltd. said Friday it had an unearthed a 442-carat diamond at its Letseng mine in Lesotho. While it’s hard to establish a price for such stones before cutters can evaluate them, it could sell for as much as $18 million, Edward Sterck, analyst at BMO Capital Markets, wrote in a note.

Given the rarity of such large stones, demand for big diamonds has traditionally been resilient, even at times when the wider industry has struggled.

The Letseng mine is famous for the size and quality of the diamonds it produces and has the highest average selling price in the world. Two years ago Gem Diamonds found a 910-carat stone, the size of two golf balls, that sold for $40 million.

The find comes as the global diamond industry has been brought to its knees by the pandemic. Jewelry stores have closed and India’s cutting industry, which handles almost all of the world’s stones, has come to a halt. The miners that dominate the industry, De Beers and Russian rival Alrosa PJSC, have seen their rough diamond sales collapse.

“The recovery of this remarkable 442 carat diamond, one of the world’s largest gem quality diamonds to be recovered this year, is further confirmation of the caliber of the Letseng mine and its ability to consistently produce large, high quality diamonds,” Clifford Elphick, Gem’s chief executive officer, said in the statement.

Source: bloomberg

Tiffany Promises More Transparency For Diamonds Amid Greater Concern Over Social Responsibility

Tiffany & Co

Tiffany & Co. announced Tuesday it will share the full background of its newly sourced diamond rings, an industry first as it looks to attract customers who care about quality as well as social and environmental responsibility.

FRANCE-US-ECONOMY-LUXURY-LVMH-TIFFANY&CO
ffany & Co. will share more background on its engagement rings. AFP VIA GETTY IMAGES

KEY FACTS

As demand for lab-grown diamonds is on the rise, it is likely Tiffany and other jewelers want to assuage conflict diamond and sustainability concerns which have long plagued the diamond industry. 

The 183 year old jeweler will provide a Tiffany Diamond Certificate with the diamond’s region or countries of origin as well as where it was cut and polished, graded and quality assured and set in jewelry starting this October.

Tiffany says disclosing the country where each stone is crafted and set marks a first for global luxury jewelers and follows last year’s announcement that Tiffany would become the first to provide the country or region of origin for its diamond rings.  

Twenty years ago, diamond industry leaders including Tiffany’s adopted the Kimberley Process aimed at stopping the worldwide trade of conflict diamonds, which it defines as “rough diamonds used to finance wars against governments,” but critics have said the definition is too narrow and does not factor human rights and sustainability concerns. 

In 2018, the advocacy organization Human Rights Watch evaluated whether 13 of the world’s major jewelry brands responsibly source their gems and minerals and Tiffany’s topped the list, still, the report found “none of the companies can identify all of their diamonds’ individual mines of origin.” 

Despite recent “quarantine proposals,” Tiffany’s engagement jewelry sales dropped nearly 97% year-over-year from $280.4 million to $142.5 million in the first quarter of 2020 and total net sales dropped by nearly 45% from more than $1 billion to $555.5 million.

TANGENT

Nearly 70% of millennials would consider buying an engagement ring with a lab-grown diamond, according to a 2018 report from MVI Industries, a marketing research and analytics firm for the gem, jewelry and watch industries. Lab-grown diamonds have the same chemical composition as a traditional diamond but they are usually less expensive.

Source: Forbes

Christie’s Is Hosting its First-Ever Online Sale Dedicated to Diamonds—and Nothing Else

The top lot is a Graff pendant necklace expected to fetch at least $300,000.

Square-cut or pear-shaped, colorless or fancy-colored, loose or mounted, the rocks on the block at Jewels Online: Summer Sparkle — Christie’s first-ever online sale dedicated to diamonds — are sure to delight new buyers and seasoned collectors alike.

With 50 lots ranging from a triangular diamond eternity band (lot 36) with a low estimate of $2,000 to the top lot, a 20.21-ct. pear-shaped yellow-brown diamond mounted in a Graff necklace (lot 41) and estimated at $300,000–$400,000, the selection covers all taste, style and price preferences.

Lovers of uniquely colored diamonds are in for a treat, as the sale is rich in rare gems in rainbow hues, including pinks, oranges and greens—not to mention grays, browns and yellows. There is a showstopper of a ring centered on a square modified fancy grayish yellowish-green diamond framed by pink and white diamonds and set in platinum and rose gold (lot 37, estimated at $20,000–$30,000); a ring topped by a 7.6-ct. fancy deep brown-yellow diamond mounted, rather cheekily, on the horizontal (lot 20, $12,000–$18,000); and a sculpted Sabbadini flower brooch studded with colored and colorless diamonds (lot 24, $6,000–$8,000)

Rings, such as a 5.03-ct. pear brilliant-cut diamond set horizontally on a highly polished band of 18-karat blackened gold (lot 1, $60,000–$80,000), dominate the mostly contemporary selection, but there are plenty of earrings, too — including multiple styles by Graff as well as the British jeweler David Morris.

Clients with a passion for high design likewise will not be disappointed. Consider the pear-shaped pendant necklace designed by Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co. and suspended on a chic gold link chain (lot 47, $5,000–$7,000), or the sale’s lone bracelet, an 18k yellow gold bangle style by David Morris set with pavé yellow diamonds and marquise diamond accents (lot 33, $15,000–$20,000).

Source: robbreport

Two 20-Carat Diamond Watches From Jaeger-LeCoultre Have World’s Smallest Movement

Jaeger-LeCoultre Bangle watch

Jaeger-LeCoultre has held the record for the world’s smallest mechanical movement – since 1929. The caliber 101, a mere 14mm long and less than 5mm wide, is still used today. It drives two new high jewelry models from the brand, the Snowdrop and the Bangle. Both are made of 18k pink gold and designed as bracelets, according to standards of high jewelry making, with integrated cases and movements. Each is set with about 20 carats of diamonds, all classified as IF-internally flawless to VVS clarity grade.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Snowdrop, with 20.9 carats of diamonds.
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Snowdrop, with 20.9 carats of diamonds. JAEGER-LECOULTRE

The Snowdrop is set with of 904 diamonds, 204 of which are substantially sized pear-shaped gems. The remainder are classic brilliant cuts, for a total of 20.9 carats. The design was inspired by the white bell-shaped flowers of the same name that grow through the snow in the Vallee de Joux watchmaking district of Switzerland. The case is integrated with the manchette-style bracelet, with a circle of pear-shaped diamonds surrounding the dial to form a flower. Waves of diamonds repeat the petal pattern in perfect symmetry throughout the bracelet.Recommended For You

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Bangle watch, with 19.7 carats of diamonds.
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Bangle watch, with 19.7 carats of diamonds. JAEGER-LECOULTRE

The diamonds in the center of the bracelet are set according to the griffe  or claw method, which minimizes the amount of metal surrounding the gem and allows more light to pass through from different angles. The bracelet’s structure is supported by two bands of gold with diamonds that are grain-set, a linear setting technique in which tiny beads of gold are pulled up from the surface of the metal and pushed over the stone to secure them. The gemsetting work for this piece represents 130 hours of work by Jaeger-LeCoultre artisans.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Bangle watch, with 19.7 carats of diamonds.
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Bangle watch, with 19.7 carats of diamonds. JAEGER-LECOULTRE

The Bangle watch is a swirling, geometric Art Deco design with an interplay of symmetry and asymmetry. The bracelet is set with 996 diamonds totaling 19.7 carats, graduated in size to emphasize the sweeping, 3D curves of the design. Altogether, there are 144 griffe-set diamonds and 852 grain-set diamonds. The Bangle opens with a simple twist of each side. 

Setting diamonds into the Snowdrop watch by Jaeger-LeCoultre.
Setting diamonds into the Snowdrop watch by Jaeger-LeCoultre. JAEGER-LECOULTRE

Over the past 90 years, Jaeger-Le Coultre’s caliber 101 has been used in jewelry watches under its own name as well as in creations by other high-end brands. These rare timepieces have graced the wrists of many notable women, including Queen Elizabeth II, who wore one for her coronation in 1953. The movement has benefited over the years from many improvements in materials and machining, but its dimensions and architecture remain unchanged. The present, fourth-generation movement, caliber 101/4 has 98 components (compared with the original 78).

Source: forbes

GIA to Give Full Color, Clarity Grades for Lab-Grown

GIA grader

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) is launching a new digital report for lab-grown diamonds that will feature specific color and clarity grades. The organization, which currently only offers loose descriptions and grade ranges for synthetics, will introduce the new reports early in the fourth quarter, it said Tuesday.

The service will incorporate the GIA’s two existing lab-grown reports. Its full reports — available for stones weighing 0.15 carats and larger — will include a 4Cs assessment and plotted diagrams showing clarity and proportions. Its lower-priced “dossiers,” which are available only for stones ranging from 0.15 to 1.99 carats, will just include the 4Cs assessment and the proportions diagram. The lab will also offer specific color and clarity grades for lab-grown colored diamonds.

The GIA began grading synthetic diamonds in 2007, and has since aligned the service more with what it offers for natural stones. Until last year, it only provided descriptions of color and clarity, such as “colorless” and “slightly included.” However, from July 1, 2019, it started indicating the range of traditional color and clarity scores to which those descriptions referred — such as “D to F” and “SI1 to SI2.”

The institute has now moved a stage further, arguing that enhanced transparency will benefit consumers and the trade.

“Natural- and laboratory-grown diamonds coexist today, accepted by both consumers and the trade,” said CEO Susan Jacques. “Ensuring consumers’ trust with GIA’s reliable, independent and authoritative grading reports for all diamonds benefits the public and the entire gem and jewelry industry. We believe the growth of laboratory-grown diamonds will expand the overall diamond market and bring in new customers.”

The reports will only be available in a digital format and will feature an updated design that distinguishes them from their natural-diamond counterparts. The California-headquartered organization will continue to laser-inscribe the stones with the words “laboratory-grown” alongside the GIA report number to further ensure differentiation from naturals. The documents will still carry a statement that the graded stone may have undergone post-growth treatment to alter its color, the GIA pointed out.

The GIA is keeping the same fee structure as for natural-diamond reports since the grading work is the same, it noted.

Source: Diamonds.net

A Crucial Moment for Artisanal Miners

Artisanal Miners Sierra Leone

The question of how to tackle the hardships facing informal diamond miners is as pressing today as it was when it first arose nearly 20 years ago.

It was first touted as an issue that perhaps the Kimberley Process (KP) could incorporate into its mission. But the KP was not equipped — or mandated — to meet the challenge, even if the sector represented an Achilles heel for a body tasked with facilitating the cross-border trade of responsibly sourced rough.

Instead, the Diamond Development Initiative (DDI) formed, taking a developmental approach to advancing artisanal miners. Since its inception, the DDI’s goal has been to create an infrastructure that allows these miners to sell their diamonds through legitimate means, get a fair price for them, and make a sustainable living.

Operating primarily, though not exclusively, in Sierra Leone and the Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC), the organization’s work includes enabling community development; engaging with governments to formulate policies; organizing miners into cooperatives; providing professional training; and running initiatives to raise the diggers’ income, such as introducing them to new buyers.

Typically, the diggers work for less than $2 a day. With such low income, they’ve historically been incentivized to sell their diamonds on the black market, where the stones may be smuggled across the border, mixed with other goods, given a KP certificate and sold on the global market.

With an estimated 1 million to 1.5 million people working in the sector across 15 countries in Africa and three in South America, the DDI has spent much of its time registering miners in its systems and educating them on how they can benefit from working through its channels.

The organization achieved a significant milestone in April last year when it launched the Maendeleo Diamond Standards, a certification system designed to connect artisanal and small-scale diamond miners with responsible supply chains.

The standards include training on legal issues, community engagement, human rights, health and safety, ways to ensure violence-free operations, environmental management, interactions with large-scale mining, and navigating a site closure.

Clearly, given the scope of the artisanal mining sector, challenges remain. The DDI has had limited resources to pursue its goals and expand its reach.

In that context, the group announced in late July that it had merged with Resolve, a much larger non-government organization (NGO) engaged in addressing social, health and environmental issues. Being part of Resolve will give the DDI additional resources, such as administrative support for the work it wants to carry out, explained DDI founder and chairman Ian Smillie, who is joining Resolve’s board of advisers along with DDI vice chair Stephane Fischler. The group will be a division within Resolve and go by DDI@Resolve, with DDI executive director Ian Rowe at the helm.

The merger was born of the realization that the vast number of initiatives out there advocating for artisanal miners — not just in diamonds, but also in minerals such as gold, cobalt, tin, tantalum and tungsten — could lead to confusion. With NGOs, private companies, and government agencies all approaching donors and policy-makers to get support for their programs, the messaging could get muddled, Smillie explained. A pooling of resources would make for more efficient processes and a better outcome for the artisanal mining community.

Another example in July was De Beers’ GemFair program partnering with the Deutsche Gesellschaft für Internationale Zusammenarbeit and the Mano River Union — a cross-border association comprising Sierra Leone, Liberia, Guinea and the Ivory Coast — to develop training in those four countries. Efforts like these have become especially important in the Covid-19 environment, where diamond demand has slumped to historic lows.

While the pandemic has halted activity in the DRC, Sierra Leone has been better able to manage due to its experience with the 2014 Ebola outbreak. But like the rest of the trade, artisanal miners need to think beyond Covid-19 and make sure the right systems are in place to facilitate sales when demand returns. That challenge is especially difficult for these miners, who rely on the DDI’s guidance to gain access to the global diamond market. Hopefully, Resolve will help broaden the DDI’s scope. And as activity scales up, it will be up to the greater jewelry industry to support this important part of the global diamond community.

Source: Diamonds.net

Alrosa’s July diamond sales drop 79%, state help may be on its way

alrosa-large-rough-diamonds

Russian diamond producer Alrosa said on Monday that its rough and polished diamond sales totalled $35.8 million in July, down 79% from a year earlier after the coronavirus pandemic hit demand and the supply chain.

It marked a fourth consecutive month of weak sales as falling demand and supply chain disruptions since March have prompted Alrosa and other producers to reduce output and relax payment terms for clients.

Alrosa’s sales rose from $31.3 million in June but still were only a fraction of the usual sales of the world’s largest producer of rough diamonds. Its sales in July 2019 totalled $170.5 million.

The state-controlled firm has previously said that it was prepared for months of weak sales and that in coming months it will discuss with Russia’s finance ministry whether state precious metals and gems repository Gokhran could buy $0.5 billion-$1 billion of the firm’s rough diamonds.

The finance ministry is yet to take the final decision but is positive about the possibility of such a deal, the Kommersant newspaper reported on Monday, citing an unnamed source at the ministry.

Such a deal would help to improve the situation in the market, as it did in 2008-2009 when Gokhran bought diamonds worth $1 billion from Alrosa during the global financial crisis, the source told Kommersant.

Reporting by Polina Devitt – reuters