Synthetics: Coming to a Bourse Near You?

Israel Diamond Exchange

Exchanges in Mumbai, Dubai and now Israel are dipping their toes in the water.

The rise of lab-grown diamonds might finally be trickling through to the historic heart of the trade: the diamond exchanges.

It began last November, when Anoop Mehta, president of Mumbai’s Bharat Diamond Bourse (BDB), told Rapaport News some of its members had asked for a rethink of its total ban on synthetics in the complex. The BDB delayed taking action due to “issues” in the market in the last six to eight months, but could hold a vote later this year, Mehta said Tuesday.

Meanwhile, the Dubai Diamond Exchange hosted a tender of rough synthetic diamonds earlier this week — the first of its kind at any member of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB).

And in a Hebrew Facebook post on May 7, Yoram Dvash, president of the Israel Diamond Exchange (IDE), announced he had sat down with senior bourse members to discuss how to approach the lab-grown question.

The James Allen effect

Dvash’s move was perhaps inevitable, after James Allen entered the synthetics sector earlier this month. The Israeli trade is a major supplier to James Allen through a special arrangement the Israel Diamond Institute (IDI) has with the e-commerce business that is owned by Signet Jewelers. The Israeli trade sold about $30 million of goods to James Allen in 2018, according to a spokesperson for the IDI.

But the opportunities in synthetics go beyond just one client. The category has made headway in the US, though demand is less strong in Europe and the Far East, participants at Dvash’s May 6 gathering concluded. There were voices for and voices against entering the market, he reported, with some arguing that promoting man-made stones would damage the natural market.

It’s not clear what form any Israeli market entry would take. The bourse currently bans lab-grown diamonds from its IDE trading floor, and has no plans to change that, Dvash said. It doesn’t monitor what goes on in companies’ offices within the rest of the exchange building.

“Other members felt we must join [James Allen] in carrying synthetic stones,” he wrote. “A decision was made to continue to investigate the issue more deeply, and to hold a further discussion in the near future.”

In the meantime, the IDE plans to tighten its rules to ensure that any activity in lab-grown diamonds doesn’t lead to undisclosed mixing with natural stones. It wants traders to put a clear mark on the small envelopes for diamonds (commonly called “brifkas”) to indicate that a stone is synthetic, as well as on invoices, Dvash explained. The bourse will also allocate part of its budget to improve segregation of the two markets. The exchange has approved the budget, and is waiting for its legal committee to finalize the other two provisions.

Bourses’ independence

Bourses have the autonomy to make decisions on these issues themselves, so long as they ensure clear differentiation and ethical marketing, noted Ernie Blom, president of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB). Recent actions by the US Federal Trade Commission and the Diamond Producers Association have successfully alleviated many of the concerns about lab-grown producers misleading the public with their marketing, he added.

“[Bourses] have the right to decide if they want to have lab-grown diamonds on their bourses or not,” Blom said. “Whatever their decision is, we will basically support it.”

That gives the diamond bourses freedom to pursue ventures that benefit their members. The question that remains is whether that will result in the introduction of synthetics to the trading floor, thus entrenching the product in the industry’s core.

Source: Diamonds.net

Miner Petra Diamonds sells its 425 carat legacy diamond

Cullinan Legacy

Petra Diamonds said on Tuesday it sold its 425-carat ‘Legacy of the Cullinan Diamond Mine’ diamond to Belgium-based Stargems Group for $15 million.

The miner, which recovered the diamond at its flagship Cullinan mine in March, said the sale was significant for the company.

Petra has been struggling to clear its multi-million-dollar debts after it borrowed heavily to revamp the Cullinan facility and began mining a new section of ore last July.

However, Cullinan has been profitable every year since Petra acquired it in 2008 and the mine is expected to generate free cash flow this year.

ASIC liquidator push turns up the heat on Diamond Joe Gutnick

merlin-diamonds-find

Australia’s corporate watchdog has sought Federal Court approval to wind up Joseph Gutnick’s publicly-listed company, Merlin Diamonds, and flagged an inquiry into whether the colourful Melbourne businessman has breached his director’s duties.

The Australian Securities and Investments Commission’s (ASIC) move against the man known as “Diamond Joe” due to his appetite for outback diamond and gold deposits confirms the worst fears of Merlin Diamonds’ shareholders, who have already endured a seven-month trading ban on the company’s stock.

Court filings released to The Age and Sydney Morning Herald on Tuesday show ASIC is seeking an order to appoint Deloitte as liquidators of Merlin Diamonds, which had a market capitalisation of just $20 million when its stock was banned from trading last October.

ASIC has for months been probing how Merlin Diamonds has loaned $13 million of investor money to a private company, AXIS Consultants, which has long been associated with Mr Gutnick.

“The loans have been used to fund private companies associated with Joseph Gutnick and provide no discernible benefit to Merlin Diamonds,” ASIC said in a statement on Tuesday evening.

In one example cited by ASIC, it alleges Merlin Diamonds in October 2016 received $900,000 from a Mr Gutnick-linked company, Chabad Properties, for convertible notes and options issued to Chabad.

“The ultimate source of the $900,000 paid by Chabad, through a series of transactions involving related companies, was Merlin Diamonds. Mr Gutnick is a former director of Chabad,” ASIC’s media statement revealed.

Mr Gutnick, who resumed the chairmanship of Merlin Diamonds after emerging from a self-imposed bankruptcy last year, and his wife, Stera Gutnick, are also named in the ASIC’s court filing to wind up Merlin Diamonds. Mrs Gutnick is not a director of Merlin Diamonds and is not understood to be personally under investigation.

ASIC has asked the liquidators to examine and provide an opinion on whether Mr Gutnick and other past and present Merlin Diamonds directors and officers, have breached the Corporations Act.

It wants this opinion, as well as advice on the company’s assets, solvency and likely return to creditors, within 42 days of the liquidators being appointed.

Mr Gutnick is one of Australia’s best-known business figures, was once a regular on the BRW richest 200 list and a benefactor to many Jewish charities.

As president of a stricken Melbourne Football Club during the 1990s, the ordained Rabbi’s financial support kept the club alive.

Mr Gutnick said on Tuesday that Merlin Diamonds was reviewing ASIC’s filings.

“It’s been handed to lawyers to examine and defend,” he said.

ASIC has sought an order to release to Deloitte documents it has amassed relevant to Merlin Diamonds, Mr and Mrs Gutnick and a host of Gutnick-controlled or associated private companies.

Among the named private companies is AXIS Consultants, which The Age and Sydney Morning Herald revealed in February was at the heart of ASIC’s investigation into Merlin Diamonds.

AXIS, which shares the same Moray Street Southbank office as Merlin Diamonds, has received about $18 million dollars in unsecured loans from publicly-traded companies led by Mr Gutnick, including Merlin Diamonds and the company formerly known as Top End Minerals.

Unfortunately for shareholders, AXIS has been unwilling or unable to repay bulk of the loans, which have had to be written off by the public companies as impairments and are, most likely, unrecoverable.

“The terms of the Loans appear to be unreasonable, uncommercial and non-arm’s length,” ASIC’s media statement said.

Merlin detailed the terms of these AXIS loans in its 2015 annual report stating: “No fixed terms for repayment of loans between the parties, no security has been provided and no interest charged.”

When the Australian Securities Exchange started asking questions about the loans to AXIS in October last year, Merlin Diamonds reported that it “does not have access to the financial information of AXIS”.

This was despite Mr Gutnick, his son Mordechai Gutnick and long-time business associates, Peter Lee and David Tyrwhitt, all having served as directors of Merlin Diamonds and AXIS at some stage in relevant years when money was loaned.

At the same time as Merlin Diamonds was transferring money to AXIS- which would then often makes loans to other Gutnick-associated entities – staff and consultants at the company’s Northern Territory mine complained they had gone months without pay.

Mr Gutnick earlier this year said nearly all outstanding claims had been resolved.

In February Mr Gutnick appeared unconcerned by ASIC’s investigation into Merlin Diamonds and his network of private companies saying: “I’ve had ASIC look at transactions I’ve done for 30 years.”

But with ASIC’s new leadership team of chairman James Shipton and prosecutor Daniel Crennan QC promising a more aggressive approach in the wake of the banking royal commission, Mr Gutnick may face a more rigorous examination.

The Federal Court has yet to schedule a hearing for ASIC’s action against Merlin Diamonds, with the corporate watchdog filing its documentation last Thursday.

Source: The Sydney Morning Herald

Cartier Sues Alleged Counterfeiter

Cartier love bracelet

Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels have filed a lawsuit against a Florida jeweler, claiming willful infringement on a number of the luxury jewelers’ famous trademarked collections.

Scott King Inc., registered for business as Florida Diamond Brokers and King Jewelers, allegedly sold imitations of jewelry belonging to the Richemont-owned divisions, the May 6 suit, filed in the US District Court of Florida, claims.

In November 2018, an agent of Cartier and Van Cleef visited King Jewelers, and noticed the store was selling counterfeit copies of the jewelers’ pieces. Those imitations included Van Cleef’s Alhambra and Perlée collections, as well as Cartier’s Love and Juste un Clou collections, engraved with the brands’ trademarked name, the suit claims. The prices for the items ranged from $900 to $1,125 for earrings, and more than $6,000 for bracelets, a similar range to Cartier and Van Cleef’s own prices.

The agent returned to the store the following month, and again in February, according to the lawsuit. During the first visit, employees of King Jewelers allegedly informed the agent that the jewelry was not authentic Van Cleef and Cartier pieces, but rather “inspiration” jewels made to look like them. An employee also said the products were not listed in the store’s catalogues because they “don’t want to get in trouble.”

Cartier and Van Cleef are asking the court to order King Jewelers to turn over all its counterfeit jewelry to them for destruction, and to recall any pieces it has distributed to retailers and other customers. They are also suing for the total amount of profits King Jewelers has made from all sales of the copied pieces, plus up to $2 million per counterfeited collection and per each jewelry category (bracelets, rings, etc.) within those collections.

Source: Diamonds.net

RUSSIA: SYNTHETICS TO BE MARKED WITH SPECIAL CODE

richline-lab-diamonds-jewelry

Russia proposes to differentiate synthetics from natural diamonds starting 2022

RUSSIAN SYNTHETIC DIAMONDS
RUSSIAN SYNTHETIC DIAMONDS

Aleksey Moiseev, Russia’s Deputy Finance Minister, said that the diamond industry must support initiatives to “classify synthetic diamond products for customs clearance under separate product codes”. According to Rough & Polished, Moiseev broached the subject in a meeting with Alok Vardhan Chaturvedi, Chairman of the Kimberley Process, and Ambassador of the Republic of India to Russia, D. Bala Venkatesh Varma. Russia will become KP chair in 2020.

Moiseev said that his country is working to promote this within the KP, and that the new system, which will be implemented (pending authorisation) starting January 1, 2022, will include the implementation of special 6-digit codes (HS codes) for synthetic rough stones and diamonds: 7104 21 and 7104 91 respectively.

Moiseev said: “We hope that India will actively support our work at the national level, ensuring the adoption of separate customs codes for synthetic diamonds in India, tightening the regulation of the domestic market to ensure consumer protection. Russia has already passed a law prohibiting synthetics from being called precious stones”.

Source: israelidiamond

Trade Mourns Death of Leo Schachter

Leo Schachter

Leo Schachter, whose famed international diamond company has borne his name for almost 70 years, has died.

Schachter launched Beck and Schachter Company on New York’s 47th Street in 1952, having learned the trade from his father, Max. The firm became a De Beers sightholder in 1966, and expanded beyond the US to Israel, Africa and the Far East.

It remained a family business, with many of Schachter’s five daughters and five sons-in-law becoming involved. The company moved its main sales and distributions to Tel Aviv in 1982, and in 1984 opened a cutting factory in Botswana. In 2016, the firm — now simply called Leo Schachter — joined Alrosa’s contract-sales program.

“[Schachter] looked you straight in the eye, didn’t say that much, but quietly knew everything,” said Martin Rapaport, Chairman of the Rapaport Group. “He was straight and his advice, soft-spoken, was honest and good. He was generous with his wisdom. Someone you could look up to. I liked him and he liked me. Leo’s passing represents the end of a generation of great diamantaires.”

Schachter was an “icon of the diamond industry” and a longtime member of the Diamond Manufacturers & Importers of America (DMIA), added Ronnie VanderLinden, the DMIA’s president, in a statement.

Source: Diamonds.net

First ever rough laboratory grown diamonds go on tender

Laboratory grown rough diamond

The Dubai Multi-Commodities Centre, or DMCC, will host the first-ever rough laboratory grown diamonds tender on its Dubai Diamond Exchange.

The tender is organised and managed by Tony’s Auction World – diamond traders based in Hong Kong – with viewings of Chemical Vapour Deposition (CVD) rough lab-grown diamonds – approximately 50 000 carats in 55 parcels – taking place on 11, 12 and 13 May.

As a member of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB), the Dubai Diamond Exchange is subject to all the organisation’s laws and must be compliant with its stringent regulations.

“Our commitment to facilitating open and transparent trade is unwavering, as is our support for the natural diamond industry.

Ensuring the integrity of the sales process is of paramount importance, and that is why lab-grown diamonds tenders will only take place on the exchange trading floor when both the seller and buyer can clearly evidence that the disclosure, detection and differentiation process has been adhered to,” says Ahmed Bin Sulayem, executive chairman and CEO of DMCC.

According to the exchange and its ‘Code of Business Conduct’, all tender participants must follow a robust due diligence process and provide evidence that lab-grown diamonds are sold and stored separately to natural diamonds.

Tender participants are required to clearly disclose and differentiate the product, with lab-grown diamonds and natural diamonds traded entirely separately.

Scientific equipment commonly available in certification labs across the world can clearly and easily identify laboratory grown diamonds and distinguish them from the natural product.

Research indicated that laboratory grown diamonds make up around 2% of the total diamond jewellery market, but production is growing by 15-20% a year.

“We are proud to stage in Dubai the first laboratory-grown diamonds tender in the world. Lab-grown diamonds offer a different value proposition to natural diamonds and trading them in a regulated and open platform increases the transparency and legitimacy of the sales process,” concludes Rushabh Mehta, CEO of Tony’s Auction World.

Source: miningreview

Pandora Cuts 1,200 Jobs as Sales Drop

Pandora jewellery

Pandora will push ahead with a total overhaul of its business, after sales weakened in the first quarter.

Global sales fell 6% year on year to DKK 4.8 billion ($720.5 million) for the January to March period, the Danish charm maker reported Tuesday. Revenue in the US slipped 12% in local currency to DKK 977 million ($146.5 million), while sales in China rose 15% to DKK 548 million ($82.2 million). Global net profit declined 31% to DKK 797 million ($119.5 million).

The company plans to lay off approximately 1,200 employees at its Thailand manufacturing facility. Those cuts are in addition to the 700 workers it dismissed from the factory in February. It will also reduce some workers’ hours, aiming to save a combined DKK 600 million ($90 million) in 2019.

Pandora attributed the weak first quarter performance to its unsuccessful consumer and marketing strategies. As part of a transformation, the company will offer fewer discount promotions, reduce its inventory, and minimize the design variations it carries in stores.

Additionally, the retailer plans to increase its marketing in certain countries, including the UK, Italy and China, to reach consumers more effectively. The campaigns will be consolidated through one advertising agency, which will provide Pandora with a clear brand, it said. The company has also recently launched new campaigns featuring celebrities and influencers.

The strategy shift, which began in the first quarter, “is progressing rapidly, and is creating a real transformation of our business, culture and organization,” said Anders Boyer, Pandora’s chief financial officer. “As expected, the first quarter was characterized by continued weak like-for-like [figures], further burdened by our deliberate commercial reset.”

During the quarter, the company opened a net eight concept stores, down from 39 in the same period last year. It plans to close 50 stores that were not making profits. Pandora expects sales to fall 3% to 7% this year, it said.

Source: Diamonds.net

Jennifer Lopez wore Harry Winston jewellery worth $8.8 million to the Met Gala

Jennifer Lopez wore Harry Winston jewellery

Jennifer Lopez attended the 2019 Meta Gala with her new fiancé Alex Rodriguez, and she was dressed in head to toe sparkles.

If her plunging Versace gown complete with a thigh high slit, iridescent platform heels, silver clutch, and shimmering headdress weren’t enough.

Jennifer Lopez was dripping in Harry Winston diamond jewellery which was worth $US8.8 million

Harry Winston’s “Purple Dragon Necklace,” which weighs in at a whopping 129.48 carats.

Pink Diamond Prices Firm in 1Q

Pink diamond

Pink fancy-color diamonds outperformed other major color categories in price terms during the first quarter, the Fancy Color Research Foundation (FCRF) said.

“At a time of diamond-market uncertainty, fueled by growing white-diamond inventory and the emergence of lab-grown diamonds, most categories of fancy-color diamonds are showing continued pricing stability, with the pink segment posting slight price increases,” said Oren Schneider, an FCRF advisory board member.

Prices for pinks grew 0.5% quarter on quarter for the three months ending March 31, according to the FCRF, which released its quarterly Fancy Color Diamond Index (FCDI) last week. By contrast, overall prices of blue fancy-color diamonds, which previously held the top spot, declined 0.2% compared to the previous quarter. Yellows slipped 1.5%, causing the overall index for fancy-color diamonds to fall 0.2%.

“The color-diamond market as a whole is in a slowdown, following the hyper price rises of the past years,” added Alan Bronstein, president of the Natural Color Diamond Association. “Demand always goes through cycles where values rise and fall.”

Diamonds weighing 1 carat showed the best performance in both the fancy-yellow and fancy-intense-blue categories during the quarter, according to the FCRF. The segment was led by the 3- and 5-carat vivid-pink categories, which increased by an average of 3.1%.

In February, the FCRF predicted a rise in the price of yellow diamonds for 2019, as Dominion Diamond Mines’ Ekati deposit — one of the main suppliers of those stones — transitions from open-pit to underground mining. The group cautioned there would be a shortage of supply during the transition phase.

The Fancy Color Diamond Index tracks prices of yellow, pink and blue fancy-color diamonds in Hong Kong, New York and Tel Aviv.

Source: Diamonds.net