Fancy Shape Diamonds: Beyond the Round Brilliant
A fancy shape diamond is any diamond cut other than Round Brilliant. These shapes offer unique aesthetics, individuality, and often better value per carat than round diamonds.
Popular Fancy Diamond Shapes & Features
Shape Facets Key Features Best For
Princess Cut 58-76 Sharp corners, modern brilliance Contemporary engagement rings
Cushion Cut 58-64 Rounded corners, vintage charm Classic & romantic settings
Oval Cut 57-58 Elongated for a slimming effect Maximizing finger coverage
Emerald Cut 50-58 Step-cut, hall-of-mirrors effect Elegant, sophisticated look
Radiant Cut 70 Hybrid of step and brilliant cuts Maximum brilliance in a rectangular shape
Asscher Cut 50-58 Square step-cut, deep clarity Vintage style, Art Deco appeal
Marquise Cut 58 Boat-shaped, elongates fingers Unique & dramatic settings
Pear Cut 58 Teardrop shape, combines round & marquise Unique & elegant engagement rings
Heart Cut 56-58 Romantic, requires perfect symmetry Sentimental & statement jewellery
Trillion Cut 31-50 Triangular, high brilliance Side stones or unique centre stones
Why Choose a Fancy Shape Diamond?
Better Value – Fancy shapes cost 20-40% less per carat than round diamonds.
Unique Look – Stand out with a distinctive, non-traditional shape.
Larger Appearance – Some cuts (Oval, Marquise, Pear) look bigger than a round of the same carat weight.
Historical & Modern Appeal – From vintage Asschers to contemporary Princess cuts.
Cut Quality in Fancy Shapes
Unlike Round Brilliants, fancy shapes don’t have a standardized cut grade from GIA or DCLA. Instead, look for:
Well-balanced proportions – Avoid overly deep or shallow cuts.
Symmetry & Polish – Essential for sparkle and light performance.
Length-to-Width Ratio – Determines how the shape appears (e.g., elongated vs. square Cushion Cut).
Most Brilliant Fancy Shapes (Maximum Sparkle)
Princess – Second only to Round Brilliant in sparkle.
Oval – Brilliant-cut facets for high fire & brilliance.
Radiant – Intense sparkle with a rectangular shape.
Marquise & Pear – Brilliant-cut facets with elongation.
Best Fancy Shapes for Finger Slimming Effect
Oval, Marquise, and Pear – Create an illusion of longer fingers.
Emerald & Asscher – Sleek, elegant elongation.
Fancy Shapes & Bowtie Effect
Some fancy shapes (Oval, Marquise, Pear, and some Cushions) can exhibit a “bowtie effect”—a dark shadow across the centre of the diamond due to poor light reflection.
Avoid deep bowties by choosing a well-proportioned cut.
Which Fancy Shape is Right for You?
For Maximum Sparkle: Princess, Radiant, Oval
For Vintage Elegance: Emerald, Asscher, Cushion
For a Unique Look: Marquise, Pear, Heart, Trillion
For Best Finger Coverage: Oval, Marquise, Pear